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Engine won't start....

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Old Oct 10, 2002 | 09:01 AM
  #1  
ludespeeder's Avatar
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From: Little Rock, AR, USA
Default Engine won't start....

Ok, this morning I ran to the car (pouring down rain) and tried to start it...it would turn over, but it wouldn't ever start running. I try a few more times and notice the CEL came on. DAMMIT. I pull the codes and it's a 22, VTEC pressure switch?? I replaced it like 4K miles ago??? So I get under the hood and start looking to see whats up (still pouring down rain and now late for work) and I see nothing wrong. Everything is connected and I tested it and it was working. I look to the ignition setup (jacobs) and noticed the inline fuse was blown. I pull the bat terminal off and replace it and as soon as I put the battery back on it blew again.??? Now I don't have anymore 25amp fuses so I get a 20, same thing...try a 30 hmmm... pop. So now I was about an hour late for work, my car still doesn't start and I can't get a fuse to last longer than a few seconds in the power wire.. I checked the grounds they are all fine, checked the power wire it's fine. I'm at a loss here guys give me some suggestions cuz I ran out of things to try.
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Old Oct 10, 2002 | 09:21 AM
  #2  
aklucsarits's Avatar
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From: Philadelphia, PA, PBR
Default Re: Engine won't start.... (ludespeeder)

I'm at a loss here guys give me some suggestions
Err... How about using the correct 25Amp fuse replacement... Using a fuse with the incorrect amperage can cause severe damage to you electrical system.

I don't see how the VTEC Pressure switch would prevent the car from starting. It would put the car in limp mode with no VTEC. But the car should still be able to start with a bad VTEC Pressure switch.

Andrew
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Old Oct 10, 2002 | 10:14 AM
  #3  
hondaZvic's Avatar
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From: tx
Default Re: Engine won't start.... (aklucsarits)

maybe some distributor problems.. shoot.. i dunnooo.
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Old Oct 10, 2002 | 10:30 AM
  #4  
ludespeeder's Avatar
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From: Little Rock, AR, USA
Default Re: Engine won't start.... (hondaZvic)

I know not to change fuse amperage, but I didn't have anymore 25's, and I thought if I can get to Autozone for the right one so be it....The distributor, igniter, wires, plugs, everything is less than 4K miles old. The plugs are about 2 weeks old and everythign else was bought new from honda during my swap.

?????????
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Old Oct 11, 2002 | 06:35 PM
  #5  
PnX-R's Avatar
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From: Saint Paul, MN, USA
Default Re: Engine won't start.... (ludespeeder)

Hmm.. Your inline fuse blown huh?.. Which one??.. Doesn't really matter to me. Anyways, you popped in 3 different fuses and blew them all.. You know what?.. Why don't you try and throw in another fuse. Keep throwing them until it doesn't blow anymore.. And while you're at it. Check you tire pressure too..

I'm just messing you.. Here's the answer to your problem.. I can gurantee you that you've got a "Short-Grounded Circuit".. That's the only answer.. Take it or leave it..

The reason you're blowing fuses left and right is because the wire with the inline fuse is hitting ground before it reaches its destination. And when it hits ground, there's nothing there to control the current flow and it pops the fuse. Simple huh?..

So all you have to do to fix it is go to where your inline fuse enters the circuit. Follow that wire to its destination and do an Ohm Check.. You should have around 0 to 1 ohm of resistance.. Or better yet, check for Continuity.. If there's no Continuity from the end of the inline fuse wire to its destination, you know that there's an Open in that wire. So all you have to do is replace the wire or fix it.

Hope that helps.. Later..


---Cliff notes---
You blow a fuse when you have a Short-to-Ground Circuit. Find the Grounded open wire and fix it.
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Old Oct 11, 2002 | 08:52 PM
  #6  
ludespeeder's Avatar
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From: Little Rock, AR, USA
Default Re: Engine won't start.... (PnX-R)

I know that man, you are 100% right. But what was trippin me out was that it did it after I rewired it and checked it like 3 times. I know its wired correctly, and I know the wire is ok. I talked to Jacob's today (finally) and they said that it's the coil. So I am getting a new one (lifetime warranty!! ) and a new control box. Anybody got any suggestions for a new setup while I wait for it to get back to me (could take up to a month... )
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