Engine help needed.
ok, i need a little help diagnosing my engine problem. This is going to be kind of long, so bear with me.
I have a h22a, that i thought i might has spun a bearing. It has a knocking sound that i notice when you accelerate between 2000-3000 rpm. It doesn't seem to do it all the time though. I tried the screw driver trick to see if i could tell where its coming from, but i couldn't. I don't know if its the head or the bottom end. It all seemed pretty loud with the screw driver.
I drained the oil to see if there where any metal flakes, but i didn't find anything. I even strained the oil out but nothing was found. I also have a magnetic drain plug and there was only a very very small amount of metal on it. After removing the oil pan i don't see anything that stands out as the problem. I have had spun a bearing on a h23 once and it seems like that made a much louder of a knocking then my engine now. If its just begun knocking, is there anyway to check for a warn bearing with out stripping the entire engine?
I also tried retarding the timing on the engine, but it doesn't seem to affect the knocking sound.
Does anyone have any suggestions? any special tricks i can do to see which, if any, of the bearings is going? Or what else i can check? thanks in advance
I have a h22a, that i thought i might has spun a bearing. It has a knocking sound that i notice when you accelerate between 2000-3000 rpm. It doesn't seem to do it all the time though. I tried the screw driver trick to see if i could tell where its coming from, but i couldn't. I don't know if its the head or the bottom end. It all seemed pretty loud with the screw driver.
I drained the oil to see if there where any metal flakes, but i didn't find anything. I even strained the oil out but nothing was found. I also have a magnetic drain plug and there was only a very very small amount of metal on it. After removing the oil pan i don't see anything that stands out as the problem. I have had spun a bearing on a h23 once and it seems like that made a much louder of a knocking then my engine now. If its just begun knocking, is there anyway to check for a warn bearing with out stripping the entire engine?
I also tried retarding the timing on the engine, but it doesn't seem to affect the knocking sound.
Does anyone have any suggestions? any special tricks i can do to see which, if any, of the bearings is going? Or what else i can check? thanks in advance
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xtal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stethoscope might help. You sure it's a knocking sound? 2000-3000rpm is autotensioner failure territory.
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Well, im not sure if its a true knocking sound, if i could find a place to host a sound file i could post it. I will have to check the tensioner to see if that causing problems.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, im not sure if its a true knocking sound, if i could find a place to host a sound file i could post it. I will have to check the tensioner to see if that causing problems.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J01SH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The bolts backed out of the flywheel on my h22 and was mistakenly diagnosed as a spun bearing maybe somehting to check
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man, thats sucks. I guess i will be pulling my engine shortly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
man, thats sucks. I guess i will be pulling my engine shortly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHK4TIX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, i need a little help diagnosing my engine problem. This is going to be kind of long, so bear with me.
I have a h22a, that i thought i might has spun a bearing. It has a knocking sound that i notice when you accelerate between 2000-3000 rpm. It doesn't seem to do it all the time though. I tried the screw driver trick to see if i could tell where its coming from, but i couldn't. I don't know if its the head or the bottom end. It all seemed pretty loud with the screw driver.
I drained the oil to see if there where any metal flakes, but i didn't find anything. I even strained the oil out but nothing was found. I also have a magnetic drain plug and there was only a very very small amount of metal on it. After removing the oil pan i don't see anything that stands out as the problem. I have had spun a bearing on a h23 once and it seems like that made a much louder of a knocking then my engine now. If its just begun knocking, is there anyway to check for a warn bearing with out stripping the entire engine?
I also tried retarding the timing on the engine, but it doesn't seem to affect the knocking sound.
Does anyone have any suggestions? any special tricks i can do to see which, if any, of the bearings is going? Or what else i can check? thanks in advance
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the same exact problem with my car! Does your car make the noise when the engine is cold? Also when i rev the car to 2-3000 rpm it makes the horrible ticking noise. Mine sounds like it is coming from underneath the valve cover near the belts. I tried the screwdriver trick but i heard what you heard! I think i am going to take it to the shop today and get it looked at!
I have a h22a, that i thought i might has spun a bearing. It has a knocking sound that i notice when you accelerate between 2000-3000 rpm. It doesn't seem to do it all the time though. I tried the screw driver trick to see if i could tell where its coming from, but i couldn't. I don't know if its the head or the bottom end. It all seemed pretty loud with the screw driver.
I drained the oil to see if there where any metal flakes, but i didn't find anything. I even strained the oil out but nothing was found. I also have a magnetic drain plug and there was only a very very small amount of metal on it. After removing the oil pan i don't see anything that stands out as the problem. I have had spun a bearing on a h23 once and it seems like that made a much louder of a knocking then my engine now. If its just begun knocking, is there anyway to check for a warn bearing with out stripping the entire engine?
I also tried retarding the timing on the engine, but it doesn't seem to affect the knocking sound.
Does anyone have any suggestions? any special tricks i can do to see which, if any, of the bearings is going? Or what else i can check? thanks in advance
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have the same exact problem with my car! Does your car make the noise when the engine is cold? Also when i rev the car to 2-3000 rpm it makes the horrible ticking noise. Mine sounds like it is coming from underneath the valve cover near the belts. I tried the screwdriver trick but i heard what you heard! I think i am going to take it to the shop today and get it looked at!
man that sucks, do you notice any power loss, and its only between those rpms, or does it happen at idel as well. does it only do it when you driving or when your sitting reving it? i don't want to start guessing at what it could be but ithought i read some where that this happend to someone else and it turned out be a bad balancer chaft bearing. b4 u pull the motor may be you would want to pull the timing belt cover and check the tensioner and while your under thear pull the balancer belt and run the enigne and see if the noise it still there, from whati know about spun bearings don't they make alot of noise and you have alot of power loss?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pimpinainteasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have the same exact problem with my car! Does your car make the noise when the engine is cold? Also when i rev the car to 2-3000 rpm it makes the horrible ticking noise. Mine sounds like it is coming from underneath the valve cover near the belts. I tried the screwdriver trick but i heard what you heard! I think i am going to take it to the shop today and get it looked at! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well i didnt notice until i had all ready driven about 10 miles. I was pulling into a parking garage when i noticed it the first time. If you take yours to a shop let me know what they think
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man that sucks, do you notice any power loss, and its only between those rpms, or does it happen at idel as well. does it only do it when you driving or when your sitting reving it? i don't want to start guessing at what it could be but ithought i read some where that this happend to someone else and it turned out be a bad balancer chaft bearing. b4 u pull the motor may be you would want to pull the timing belt cover and check the tensioner and while your under thear pull the balancer belt and run the enigne and see if the noise it still there, from whati know about spun bearings don't they make alot of noise and you have alot of power loss? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, it doesn't seem to loose any power at all when its making the noise. Since my exhaust is kind of noisy while driving i can only really hear it if im putting load on the engine like driving 25-30 mph in fifth gear. But it only seems like its lasts from 2000-3500 rpm at the most. I cant hear any knocking at idle it seems to start around 2000 rpm, Its very strange to me. I know when i spun a bearing before it made a terrible noise and it sounded like the engine was going to blow. this is more quiet and maybe im just going insane.
I checked the balancer, but its not that i changed that to a manual one when i did my swap in Jan. I really hope its not a bearing one this so-called "low mileage" engine. I will try and get the balancing belt off tonight to see it that does anything.
i hope i dont have to sell the turbo i just bought, before i get a chance to put it on, just to fix my engine.
I have the same exact problem with my car! Does your car make the noise when the engine is cold? Also when i rev the car to 2-3000 rpm it makes the horrible ticking noise. Mine sounds like it is coming from underneath the valve cover near the belts. I tried the screwdriver trick but i heard what you heard! I think i am going to take it to the shop today and get it looked at! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well i didnt notice until i had all ready driven about 10 miles. I was pulling into a parking garage when i noticed it the first time. If you take yours to a shop let me know what they think
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man that sucks, do you notice any power loss, and its only between those rpms, or does it happen at idel as well. does it only do it when you driving or when your sitting reving it? i don't want to start guessing at what it could be but ithought i read some where that this happend to someone else and it turned out be a bad balancer chaft bearing. b4 u pull the motor may be you would want to pull the timing belt cover and check the tensioner and while your under thear pull the balancer belt and run the enigne and see if the noise it still there, from whati know about spun bearings don't they make alot of noise and you have alot of power loss? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok, it doesn't seem to loose any power at all when its making the noise. Since my exhaust is kind of noisy while driving i can only really hear it if im putting load on the engine like driving 25-30 mph in fifth gear. But it only seems like its lasts from 2000-3500 rpm at the most. I cant hear any knocking at idle it seems to start around 2000 rpm, Its very strange to me. I know when i spun a bearing before it made a terrible noise and it sounded like the engine was going to blow. this is more quiet and maybe im just going insane.
I checked the balancer, but its not that i changed that to a manual one when i did my swap in Jan. I really hope its not a bearing one this so-called "low mileage" engine. I will try and get the balancing belt off tonight to see it that does anything.
i hope i dont have to sell the turbo i just bought, before i get a chance to put it on, just to fix my engine.
you should try geting the balancer shaft belt off, and also get a long peice of hose and use that as you stethascope (sp?) and try and listen to see where it s coming from. that makes all the difference in the world and could determine wether you need to pull the engine or not. there are alot of moving parts in our h22 and right now it could be almost anything.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey man, do you think you miss-shifted/over-revved the car??</TD></TR></TABLE>
no, miss-shifting or over revving since i have had this engine. I have barley gone 3000 miles with it since i have my civic to drive. I just think it was abused by the previous owner.
by the way, after further inspection and tear down it looks like one of the bearings has just barley started to wear. there is not any visible damage to the crank, so i might have noticed it in time to just replace the piston bearings and be ok. At least thats what i hope
no, miss-shifting or over revving since i have had this engine. I have barley gone 3000 miles with it since i have my civic to drive. I just think it was abused by the previous owner.
by the way, after further inspection and tear down it looks like one of the bearings has just barley started to wear. there is not any visible damage to the crank, so i might have noticed it in time to just replace the piston bearings and be ok. At least thats what i hope
It isn't the infamous bad LMA tick is it? Mine sounds like **** just after start up, after the settled oil has cleared the assemblies, but goes away as the revs increase. This might be the problem, but I don't remember it going that high in the rev range. I am replacing mine during the teardown, along with the valve seals.
Mike
Mike
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22apwrd95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It isn't the infamous bad LMA tick is it? Mine sounds like **** just after start up, after the settled oil has cleared the assemblies, but goes away as the revs increase. This might be the problem, but I don't remember it going that high in the rev range. I am replacing mine during the teardown, along with the valve seals.
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont know if it is that or not. I will post some pics of the crank later today or tomorrow. Last night, i couldnt tell which if any or the bearings is going bad. If i get time tonight i will tear it down some more to see what i can find.
Does anyone know if there is a way to see if the oil pump has gone out without completely removing the crank?
Im starting to wonder if my problems have been caused by not lining up the balance shafts exactly right when i put the motor back together in the first place. For some reason with all the crap i switched over before putting the engine in my car i dont really remember if i did or did not align the rear balance shaft. The only reason i bring this up is my car seems to have a habit of bolts getting loose, but once again i think im just going insane
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont know if it is that or not. I will post some pics of the crank later today or tomorrow. Last night, i couldnt tell which if any or the bearings is going bad. If i get time tonight i will tear it down some more to see what i can find.
Does anyone know if there is a way to see if the oil pump has gone out without completely removing the crank?
Im starting to wonder if my problems have been caused by not lining up the balance shafts exactly right when i put the motor back together in the first place. For some reason with all the crap i switched over before putting the engine in my car i dont really remember if i did or did not align the rear balance shaft. The only reason i bring this up is my car seems to have a habit of bolts getting loose, but once again i think im just going insane
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22apwrd95 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It isn't the infamous bad LMA tick is it? Mine sounds like **** just after start up, after the settled oil has cleared the assemblies, but goes away as the revs increase. This might be the problem, but I don't remember it going that high in the rev range. I am replacing mine during the teardown, along with the valve seals.
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
Excuse my dumb question but what is the "LMA tick" - I am getting my engine checked out in the next week or 2 to figure out where all my expensive AMSOIL is going (aprox. 1 qt every 500mi !!!!!!!) and I noticed just yesterday that my car is idling rougher than I have ever noticed before... (and this Oil issue is months old).
I noticed you mentioned a rough idle as a symptom, just curious if it may be related.
Mike</TD></TR></TABLE>
Excuse my dumb question but what is the "LMA tick" - I am getting my engine checked out in the next week or 2 to figure out where all my expensive AMSOIL is going (aprox. 1 qt every 500mi !!!!!!!) and I noticed just yesterday that my car is idling rougher than I have ever noticed before... (and this Oil issue is months old).
I noticed you mentioned a rough idle as a symptom, just curious if it may be related.
ok, heres the up date of my situation, since i didnt notice any problems with the piston bearings i decided to remove the main caps to check the main bearings. and this is what i found.
every single main bearing is F*&^ed. How the hell could this happen? I am so pissed off right now. So i guess i have a lot of work to do. either i try and find a new crank and rebuild or, i find an entire bottom end from a salvage yard with low miles and rebuild that. OR blow my car up!!!!!
every single main bearing is F*&^ed. How the hell could this happen? I am so pissed off right now. So i guess i have a lot of work to do. either i try and find a new crank and rebuild or, i find an entire bottom end from a salvage yard with low miles and rebuild that. OR blow my car up!!!!!
Here is what you do next. Take the crank out, take it to your local "trusted" machine shop, and have them see if you can get it micropolished to take out the scoring. This will give you an answer to the crank purchase question. A good micro polish will cost you about 50-60. And don't let them "turn" it. Bad for honda cranks. How bad are your bearings? Scored? Cause that looks like some serious burning.
Mike
Mike
yeah there scored pretty bad but the crank still looks fine, i think this engine was abused way before i got it or the oil pump is screwed, even though i never got a CEL for low engine pressure
**** , dude that sucks, yeah those bearings look fucked, and there were no warning signs off this happening? and no CELs ? at least your bearings weren't spun so bad that the block and main caps were fucked up, im glad you caught it before things got to bad, you could always pic up an h23 crank and rods, and put those in and have a higher compression h23 vtec, sorry to hear about it. can you get any pics up of what the crank looks like.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CHK4TIX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well i didnt notice until i had all ready driven about 10 miles. I was pulling into a parking garage when i noticed it the first time. If you take yours to a shop let me know what they think</TD></TR></TABLE>
Went to the shop yesterday and i need a new autotensioner, balancing belt, timing belt! I went ahead and told them to go ahead and replace the water pump and gasket! I am glad i caught it before the belt snapped!
Well i didnt notice until i had all ready driven about 10 miles. I was pulling into a parking garage when i noticed it the first time. If you take yours to a shop let me know what they think</TD></TR></TABLE>
Went to the shop yesterday and i need a new autotensioner, balancing belt, timing belt! I went ahead and told them to go ahead and replace the water pump and gasket! I am glad i caught it before the belt snapped!
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