SiRLudeVtec

Well...so far, i found out what an EGR valve does and how it works; however, I'm stuck. My main problem was - my car is bogging badly with the p13(h22) ecu...but the p14(h23) ecu, it's not as bad....I have a swap (JDM h22) into a Prelude Si...but anyway, I read a post saying that if the EGR valve is broken, it won't effect the car's performance. STILL - someone else said if the EGR valve is stuck OPEN, it will cause the car to do that...WhATS THE TRUTH? I did get a CEL finally this morning and it was the EGR valve....BUT THAT WAS WITH THE P14(h23) ecu....i have to put the p13 in tomorrow to see if it will throw the same code...hopefully it will. My main question is Why is the performance of the EGR valve different with the p14 and the p13? I've had my car since the beginning of November...and it has been doing this since. No one could figure out the problem. The CEL is just now coming on. Can someone in detail explain what the EGR valve does when it is stuck open?

With the p14 in, the car doesn't really bogg nearly as much...however it does hesitate up to 3000rpm.

With the p13, the car BOGGS like CRAZY!!! It's not even street driveable....When the car warmed up, the bogging wasn't as bad, but it was still terrible. I took it out on the street a while back with the p13 and when vtec kicked in....it was HORRIBLE...but hey....lets all put our heads together on this one.

Tomorrow, my first objective will be to throw the p13 in and see if the CEL will come on....Also- when does the EGR valve activate? Because sometimes the CEL doesn't even come on...confuses me....

EDIT: One more question - I tried running the car off the p28 ecu - i was told that the p28 doesn't have EGR, but i'm having the same problem with that ecu. It never kicked the CODE 12...but it was still bogging.

I read some more - and I was told that the EGR valve could be stuck open...What are some characteristics if the EGR valve is stuck open? I have to figure this out - it's been since NOVEMBER!!! Lets get the Lude up and running.


Modified by AJBurks at 12:28 AM 3/6/2005

SiRLudeVtec

BUMP

Yesterday, I unplugged the EGR valve and I unplugged the vacuum line....the engine was still doing the same thing - am i to assume that the EGR valve isn't responsible for this mess?

SiRLudeVtec

BUMP

kulrevon

It could still be responsible for it. try making a block off plate like some people did. or take it off and try cleaning it. you could also search for egr because alot of people have more info.

Greyout

I don't recall how your other thread ended, but you do know all these ECU's use different injectors, right?

kulrevon

yeah I believe we asked that in his other thread.

which injectors are you using?

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

Your issue sounds along the same lines as the issue I have with my Non-Honda car. I was trying to check my EGR valve too on it. I couldn't get to it.

Anyway, the only reasn why I think your car runs better with the P14 would be due to the different fuel mapping.

Does your car run poorly whether cold or at operating temperature with the P13?

Explain how the car behaves while running the p13.

SiRLudeVtec

BUMP

When the car is cold-- that's when it's REALLY shitty....After revving it for a while, it gets a lot better, but still at the end, there's not much power coming from it at all...even when vtec hits...BUt it definately runs a lot worse when it's cold. Maybe i should get different fuel injectors? Maybe? Should that be the first step? If so, which kind

kulrevon

no we asked what injectors you had in the car.
are they the h23 or h22a or a1 or h22a4

we didnt tell you to get new ones yet that would be a waste of money. fix the problem with the egr if that code keeps coming up. did you even pull it off yet and clean it. or make the block off plate like I said before.

It seems like you dont try anything we tell you. and you dont answer the questions we ask.

thats what you need to do.

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AJBurks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BUMP

When the car is cold-- that's when it's REALLY shitty....After revving it for a while, it gets a lot better, but still at the end, there's not much power coming from it at all...even when vtec hits...BUt it definately runs a lot worse when it's cold. Maybe i should get different fuel injectors? Maybe? Should that be the first step? If so, which kind
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My car runs the same when it's cold or hot. I have a hard time accelerating period.

I want to block off the EGR to see if that fixes the problem.

If your H22 is stock, your injectors are not the issue. It's something else. It sounds like adding the P14 is a combination of 2 wrongs making a right. What I mean is that the first issue with the car is not as bad since the P14 is changing the fuel map.

SiRLudeVtec

Well I haven't made a block off plate because i don't know what that is. I tried doing a search, but it's not giving nearly enough information. I'm no genius when it comes to this stuff. IT"S too damn cold here to mess with the car right now...plus i'm in school the first half of the day, then i'm at work the last part of the day...I"M not like other people - whereas i just don't do ANYTHING. I have more stuff to do. Here in Indiana - one day its COLD and the next day it's HOT....TODAY, IT"S COLD - matter of fact - it was snowing....so let's be patient. When i have time to unbolt the EGR valve i will...but might not have a chance until saturday. So my question is - what is a block off plate? I had previously unplugged the EGR and the vacuum to it...but it still did it. There's no way to KNOW what injectors are in the car - the only way is to test them some how...but i can't obviously. Anyway - today, i plugged up the p13 again and once it gets warm, it runs quite well as long as i'm not using my lead foot. At part throttle it's nice - just like it is with the p14, but once i step on the gas a little more, it's starving for fuel. So it kinda leads me to the injectors...if i had an aftermarket fuel rail, i could hook up a fuel pressure gauge. But that's not the case.

SiRLudeVtec

What should I do now? I think it's starving of fuel....There are no codes that are helping....Only code I got was with the p14 and that was code 12 - but it was just that ONE day when it came on...so my best bet is to just take it off and clean it...that may fix the slight idle problem. I don't know though. Lets try to direct more people to this topic.

Ok never mind my previous post...I know what a block off plate is....actually i feel kind of stupid - but anyway - Once i install the block off plate - should that help the idle or what?

I think the H22 uses 345cc right? What does the h23 use? I wish i had a way to test the injectors....see actually, I didn't do the swap - this guy did, but he doesn't remember what injectors he used. &lt;-- kind of stupid on my part - but we all make mistakes...anyway


Modified by AJBurks at 8:44 PM 3/8/2005

fastludeh22

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AJBurks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I wish i had a way to test the injectors....see actually, I didn't do the swap - this guy did, but he doesn't remember what injectors he used. &lt;-- kind of stupid on my part - but we all make mistakes...anyway


Modified by AJBurks at 8:44 PM 3/8/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

ive been watching ur theards. injectors were the first thing i asked myself. it may or may not be, but the fact that we dont know bothers me. first off what color are you plugs?

to make a block off plate, just use sheet metal the shape of the egr, then put it between the egr and the itm, bolt the egr and hook it back up.

tell you what, if u pay shipping ill send u a set of h22 injectors...if it fixes ur prob, throw me whatever u think is fair, if not just send the injectors back...sound good?

AndyD

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastludeh22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tell you what, if u pay shipping ill send u a set of h22 injectors...if it fixes ur prob, throw me whatever u think is fair, if not just send the injectors back...sound good? </TD></TR></TABLE>

You get a from me. Nice way to look out for a fellow enthusiast in trouble.

I was thinking about making a blockoff plate for my car using a piece from a Coke can. Good idea??

My car boggs BAD.

fastludeh22

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You get a from me. Nice way to look out for a fellow enthusiast in trouble.

I was thinking about making a blockoff plate for my car using a piece from a Coke can. Good idea??

My car boggs BAD. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ive heard of it being used, but its to thin imo. it gets hot in there, id be worried of it burning though. i just went to home depot and got some sheet metal. i cant remeber the gage, i can check if u want, but u should be able to judge.

SiRLudeVtec

Yeah that would be good....Let's try that...How much for shipping? I can paypal you the shipping cost - but you have to sign up for paypal though.

I'm really thinking it has something to do with the fuel - there's no other option.

gerhard

I've found that the EGR can be quite a pain in the butt to troubleshoot.

The fact that you are getting a code tells me that the valve is not opening or closing properly.

I've recently had an issue where the valve was sticking, but the ECU did notice it was sticking open a little bit, and that was causing a misfire in cylinder #1.

Normally, a faulty EGR will cause random misfires in all cylinders.

It is also my understanding that the EGR will effect the engines idle when cold.

I had a bunch of strange problems as the result of my faulty EGR, and none of them were what I'd expect:

- Idle surging (normally a ACIV problem) between 900 and 1200 (ish) RPMs when VERY cold outside.
- Misfire on cylinder #1
- Rough idle

The P5M ECU never gave me a code.

One way to check your injectors to see if they are firing is to take a big screw driver and place the metal end on the injector in question.

I don't think you have an injector issue, as if one cylinder was having a problem... you'd be misfiring and getting that code.

Maybe you have poor fuel pressure... which might cause that... and, again, you'd probably see a code or two related to misfiring.

Also, you want to check your ignition system... may sure the cap / rotor are not corroded... check the wires with an ohm meter, and replace the plugs with NGK coppers.

SiRLudeVtec

BUMP

Yeah - sometimes when i just start the engine and i pull on the throttle from the bay, it knocks - so i guess it's miss firing, but only when its cold - it bothers me because when i rev up the car to warm it up, it gets much better.

Once it is warm - it drives well under light throttle, but otherwise, it's starving for fuel. Saturday, i will make a block off plate for the EGR and go from there i guess.

Could the EGR make the car run that bad? Why only on the p13 does it do it....
Under the p14, it drives pretty damn well.

FOR THE RECORD...I AM NO LONGER A TRIAL USER AS OF TODAY


Modified by AJBurks at 1:25 PM 3/10/2005

SiRLudeVtec

bump

mjcannon

You can easily tell if the EGR is stuck open-follow the vacuum line back from the valve to the EGR solenoid, disconnect the line, and suck on it to open the EGR valve, or jumper the solenoid to the battery to open it and the EGR valve-disconnect the electrical plug from the soldenoid first. The engine should drop about 200 rpm and labor a bit-if it doesn't change at all, it's a pretty good bet the EGR is stuck open. The EGR is only meant to open under a trailing throttle-foot of the gas in other words. They don't usually stick open, but if it did, I would guess that would affect performance, since you're getting exhaust gas back into the IM, instead of clean air.

4.6LJeepXJ

I have never seen so much talk and so little action over an EGR, its a 20 minute dio. It either opens and shuts at the right times or it doesnt.

SiRLudeVtec

You ***** - do you realize how old this topic is? What, did you go do a search and find something in the archives and decided to talk **** about it...??? Get over it....go get yourself a girlfriend so you'll have something better to do....the EGR problem is fixed...its been fixed.....get a life

98TypeSH

its actually less then a few weeks old. chill the **** out.

SiRLudeVtec

It doesn't matter - don't come on this forum posting your negative feedback without looking at the dates.....

4.6LJeepXJ

Dude you have exhausted the topic of EGR to the point where I felt the need to say soemthing. Now I'm reading your post on TPS and its like oh boy here we go again. I think you are trying to make yourself look important by posting all shorts of shwag that doesnt even relate to any problem you're having. When everyone in the forum has told you what to do to check things and it doesnt appear as if you even do the things anyone tells you, you just jump into switching ECUs. It was like 2 posts down on page 2 and I responded to say that your a fool. I'd rather be the ***** that tells you you're a fool than be the fool who cant figure out a simple EGR dio. You never said anything stating that the EGR was fixed.... It looked to me as if the thread was still open.

As for my girlfriend, I fucked all 97 pounds of her last night and it was amazing. A st. Patty's day romp in my bed.


Modified by 4.6LJeepXJ at 10:04 AM 3/18/2005


Modified by 4.6LJeepXJ at 10:07 AM 3/18/2005