The definitive Prelude ECU choice / Hondata Info Post
#127
Re: The definitive Prelude ECU choice / Hondata Info Post
So amidst my noobness, I have one question? Which ecu should I run with my H22A1/Manual transmission? And could I put a BB6 (5th Generation 'Lude) ECU in there and convert it to OBD1?
#128
Re: The definitive Prelude ECU choice / Hondata Info Post
Hey my name is Jae. I have a 92-95 h22a swap, stock bore aluminum mahle heads rods, stock crank and type s cam. Im really wanting hondata s300. I pulled my carpet back the other day and my ecu has no stickers or engravements on it at all. I really wanna ship the ecu but then I couldnt drive. So my questions are should i just get a p28 socketed and chipped from hondata and go from there or the p72 you were saying could be better or have more percise tuning lick. Im gonna run n/a for while and eventually run itb's. right now my mods are tri y exhaust, 2.5 mandrel piping, 10mm plugs, butterflied manifold, 70mm tb ect. I am so confused on what direction i should go with buying a stock ecu and sending it off to hondata. Please get back to me and ill try and explain even more and i can even take pics to show u what i mean about the ecu just being blank af. ive looked at parts under the hood of my teggy and they all say p13. Im assuming thats what my ecu is but I wanna be sure ya know. Hmb Oh and by the way that post was dope! But what is the best ecu for my setup without itb;s for right now?
#129
Re: (KTeller8)
Originally Posted by ;6065613
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KTeller8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since i am using a Venom Manifold, i would be perfectly ok with the P28:
also your saying there is
Chipping for roms/chips:
and there is
Chipping for Hondata:
those are two different things; right?
I thought hondata need the four pin sockets and just socketing for a chip, is different?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, chipping for a Hondata requires soldering in the 4 pin connector and removing J12, whereas normal chipping to run a modified ECU doesn't. I wanted to make the clarification so people realize that they need additional work done to run a Hondata setup versus a plain chip....
And yeah, the P28 is the right choice for your setup if you have an aftermarket intake manifold
Brian
also your saying there is
Chipping for roms/chips:
and there is
Chipping for Hondata:
those are two different things; right?
I thought hondata need the four pin sockets and just socketing for a chip, is different?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, chipping for a Hondata requires soldering in the 4 pin connector and removing J12, whereas normal chipping to run a modified ECU doesn't. I wanted to make the clarification so people realize that they need additional work done to run a Hondata setup versus a plain chip....
And yeah, the P28 is the right choice for your setup if you have an aftermarket intake manifold
Brian
Thanks for your thread on ECU's and chipping.
You seem to know what your talking about on these issues so I hope you dont mind me asking you a question or two.
My One owner - 1995, 2.2l VtiR Prelude has now done 260,000 km and is about due to an engine and suspension rebuild - I've been asking suggestions for tips I can do while I have the engine apart on the PreludeZone forum
http://www.preludezone.com/4th-gen-h...ggestions.html
And one member has suggested Type S pistons and a chip.
I remember chipping being the big thing about 10 yrs ago but I've not heard much about them since. I like the idea and getting a bit of an improvement in acceleration is always something I like to achieve if the price is right.
Can I simply chip my Prelude with the current stock setup? or do I need to purchase something like the P72 to even consider chipping?
I dont like compromise so if I cant chip without an upgraded ECU then I'll be looking at the P72 because hopefully I dont loose out in one area of performance.
Your assistance, knowledge and ideas in this area will be much appreciated.
Cheers
#130
Re: The definitive Prelude ECU choice / Hondata Info Post
The best way to get power out of your engine now or in the future with different modifications, is always to tune it properly for the exact setup.
A "chip" is just a burned program for the ecu, on a "chip" that is replaced in a socketed ecu. Therefore you must have a socketed ecu.
If going to the trouble of getting a socketed ecu, and getting any kind of tune done on the car, it is your choice to spend a little money for a basemap that should run the car but not be perfect, or to actually pay a GOOD TUNER to tune your engine properly.
If you buy a system such as Neptune or Hondata, or a more expensive setup like AEM, Haltech, Motec etc. You have the ability to easily plug a laptop in and modify the settings, or datalog and see what is going on. With a "chip" you don't have that capability, so you set it and go, trusting that it was done well.
If looking at an ecu choice to use for either a chip or an add in setup like Hondata, there are 3 main things to look for:
Do you want IAB use? If so use a P72
Do you want knock control? If so use a P28 or P72
Do you not need those right now? Use any socketable ecu
If you use an ecu such as a P06, it can be modified for knock control, and you can add boost components etc. The P72 gives the most flexibility, but it will always cost a bit more.
For what it is worth, I use a P06 with Hondata S300 on my nitrous fed H23vtec, and love it.
A "chip" is just a burned program for the ecu, on a "chip" that is replaced in a socketed ecu. Therefore you must have a socketed ecu.
If going to the trouble of getting a socketed ecu, and getting any kind of tune done on the car, it is your choice to spend a little money for a basemap that should run the car but not be perfect, or to actually pay a GOOD TUNER to tune your engine properly.
If you buy a system such as Neptune or Hondata, or a more expensive setup like AEM, Haltech, Motec etc. You have the ability to easily plug a laptop in and modify the settings, or datalog and see what is going on. With a "chip" you don't have that capability, so you set it and go, trusting that it was done well.
If looking at an ecu choice to use for either a chip or an add in setup like Hondata, there are 3 main things to look for:
Do you want IAB use? If so use a P72
Do you want knock control? If so use a P28 or P72
Do you not need those right now? Use any socketable ecu
If you use an ecu such as a P06, it can be modified for knock control, and you can add boost components etc. The P72 gives the most flexibility, but it will always cost a bit more.
For what it is worth, I use a P06 with Hondata S300 on my nitrous fed H23vtec, and love it.
#131
Re: The definitive Prelude ECU choice / Hondata Info Post
What's up everyone.
New here, question, was this answered already? I read some post but after the second page. I stopped.
Is the P72 ECU the best for a H23 Vtec/ Blue top/Jdm? And can I jus plug it in or will it need to be tuned before installed. It's a 2000, prelude. Previously the ECU is a P5M...
"P72 - The GSR ecu. This ECU does control the IAB's and also has knock sensor capability, but is more expensive than the P28 ECU. Technically this is the best ECU to use, because it has all of the features, but usually these ECU's are overpriced. Knock sensor capability is mostly useless, but if you're running an N/A motor the IAB control might be something you want.
I've heard stories about people running stock P72's on prelude motors and claiming power gains. These people smoke crack. The maps on the stock P72 ecu are designed for the B18C1 motor, NOT for the H22. If this ECU makes more power, it's probably because it's running more timing or less fuel than it should be.
The P72 IS Hondata compatible. In addition, the Hondata software allows you to change where the IAB's open/close, so you can engage the shorter runners earlier or later if you'd like."
New here, question, was this answered already? I read some post but after the second page. I stopped.
Is the P72 ECU the best for a H23 Vtec/ Blue top/Jdm? And can I jus plug it in or will it need to be tuned before installed. It's a 2000, prelude. Previously the ECU is a P5M...
"P72 - The GSR ecu. This ECU does control the IAB's and also has knock sensor capability, but is more expensive than the P28 ECU. Technically this is the best ECU to use, because it has all of the features, but usually these ECU's are overpriced. Knock sensor capability is mostly useless, but if you're running an N/A motor the IAB control might be something you want.
I've heard stories about people running stock P72's on prelude motors and claiming power gains. These people smoke crack. The maps on the stock P72 ecu are designed for the B18C1 motor, NOT for the H22. If this ECU makes more power, it's probably because it's running more timing or less fuel than it should be.
The P72 IS Hondata compatible. In addition, the Hondata software allows you to change where the IAB's open/close, so you can engage the shorter runners earlier or later if you'd like."
#132
Re: The definitive Prelude ECU choice / Hondata Info Post
Do you have to have a manual transmission to use a p28? 2000 prelude h22a no mods yet. still looking at options and deciding where to dedicate my money.
Last edited by jerwburn; 04-10-2015 at 10:31 PM. Reason: left out info
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