Brembo blanks or powerslot
11-27-2005, 01:25 PM
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Brembo blanks or powerslot
I really can't decide from this two. which it's better. I know the powerslots look pimp, but I'm not looking for that, I just want the best brakes without having to buy an expensive big brake kit that I don't need.
I planning on doing all of my brakes using one of this two rotor brands, pbr pads and stainless steel brake lines. let me know what you guys had experience with
I planning on doing all of my brakes using one of this two rotor brands, pbr pads and stainless steel brake lines. let me know what you guys had experience with
11-27-2005, 01:30 PM
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Well, I've got the Brembo blanks and they're great. What'll really make a difference is the pad you use. I've got EBC Redstuff (competition) pads, and after they warm up, they're amazing. Pretty average while they're cold. I've got an extra pair for the front if you want them. Fits 4th gen S/SI. $60 shipped (retail is $100)
11-27-2005, 01:44 PM
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Re: (InvaderTrax)
I'm looking to get either pbr or hawk pads.. I keep hearing about Hawk being really good. But if my budget don't allow me I'd go for the less expensive pbr. Thanks for your offer thought
11-28-2005, 07:09 AM
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Re: (TheKingPin)
Man, I totally love my PowerSlots on my Accord. They stop me just as well in the rain as they do in dry weather.....they don't feel any different.....I love it.
11-28-2005, 07:13 AM
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Re: (H0ndaJunkie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H0ndaJunkie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man, I totally love my PowerSlots on my Accord. They stop me just as well in the rain as they do in dry weather.....they don't feel any different.....I love it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
........love it? Its all in the head. The power slots and drills don't really do anything but help cool the rotor. If you're in the rain - it should be cool anyway.
........love it? Its all in the head. The power slots and drills don't really do anything but help cool the rotor. If you're in the rain - it should be cool anyway.
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11-28-2005, 07:21 AM
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Re: (H0ndaJunkie)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H0ndaJunkie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Man, I totally love my PowerSlots on my Accord. They stop me just as well in the rain as they do in dry weather.....they don't feel any different.....I love it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How does having less brake disk surface area HELP with your daily driving stopping power? It doesn't. You are trying to make yourself believe you modded your car. You didn't. You made it perform worse.
Get blanks. They are the best option, and they are the cheapest because most ricers pay more for the powerslot (drilled/slotted rotors) to "mod" their cars. lol
How does having less brake disk surface area HELP with your daily driving stopping power? It doesn't. You are trying to make yourself believe you modded your car. You didn't. You made it perform worse.
Get blanks. They are the best option, and they are the cheapest because most ricers pay more for the powerslot (drilled/slotted rotors) to "mod" their cars. lol
11-28-2005, 10:16 AM
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11-28-2005, 11:29 AM
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Re: Brembo blanks or powerslot (camil212)
hey check out 88rotors, I just ordered mine they take the brembo blanks and cross drill them and slot them too! I'll see if I can find the thread
11-28-2005, 11:30 AM
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11-28-2005, 11:47 AM
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Re: Brembo blanks or powerslot (CR-V-tech)
I will simply post an exert from team-integra.net regarding rotors. Thanks to T-I.net and StyleTEG for this information.
---
The most commonly seen upgrade on rotors is to move to a drilled and slotted rotor of the same size. What people often fail to realize, is that set of “powerslot” or “powerdrilled” rotors are actually going to decrease performance.
Drilled and slotted rotors were originally designed to battle gasses that were given out when brake pads were heated to extreme temperatures. That gas would get trapped between the pad and the rotor, and become a barrier causing brake fade. The slots and drills gave the gas somewhere to escape. Modern pad technologies have allowed us to use materials that no longer give off gas. Further, quality brake pads have a slot designed into them, to allow any gas or vapors to escape.
The first problem with these rotors is you are sacrificing mass for surface area. While yes, drilling and slotting can increase surface area; it’s always at the sacrifice for mass. On the stock sized rotor, you really need all the mass you can get. As I stated earlier, once your rotor can no longer absorb heat, you are going to have a very hard time stopping.
Some times, the drilling does not even increase surface area… and it can even DECREASE it. When drilling a hole, you essentially create a cylinder. You gain surface area on the cylinder walls, but lose the face.
Surface area = 2*pi*r*h - 2*pi*r^2
If the radius of the drill is equal to the thickness of the rotor, you gain no surface area. If the radius is smaller, you gain surface area. Finally, if the radius is larger you lose surface area.
Example 1:
2 * 3.14 * 8 * 8 – 2 * 3.14 * 8^2 = 401.92 – 401.92 = 0
Example 2:
2 * 3.14 * 6 * 8 – 2 * 3.14 * 6^2 = 301.44 – 225.08 = +76.36
Example 3:
2* 3.14 * 10 * 8 – 2 * 3.14 * 10^2 = 502.4 – 628 = -125.6
If a rotor is to be drilled, it must be done correctly. The edges should be radiused or chamfered (To cut off the edge or corner of; bevel) as well as peened. Finally it needs to be stress tested to insure the drills can hold up to the heat with our cracking.
The most important thing to keep in mind with drilled or slotted rotors is eventually they will fail and crack. There is no way to drill a hole in the rotor with out reducing its structural integrity. You just have to hope you catch it soon enough and you are not heading into a turn at 90mph when it happens.
However, there are some advantages to drilling and slotting when done correctly. Keep in mind, you will not see any worthwhile benefits on stock sized rotors. (Which need all the mass they can get).
The edges of the slots and drills provide enough of a slight lip to increase initial bite of the pad. This is not going to be a dramatic increase in braking power, but it will give a nice initial feel.
Drills and slots can keep the surface of the pad clean. However this is rarely beneficial outside of rally racing.
Drilling and slotting can increase surface area. Again surface area radiates heat, and thus can provide better cooling.
Drilling and slotting does decrease some unsprung weight. This is hardly an advantage, as you are much better off spending money on high quality lightweight rims than something that directly effects your braking ability. Once you have spent all the money possible on lightweight suspension components and rims, then you can consider the very slight decrease in weight of a drilled rotor.
Ultimately, drilled and slotted rotors are worthless on stock sized rims. People often have the misidea that drilled or slotted rotors decrease stopping distance. This is incorrect. As the formula for brake torque shows, drilling and slotting rotors does not increase brake torque. Further, most people buy drilled and slotted rotors for street use, thinking they will increase cooling. Ultimately I don't care who you are, you are not going to continually heat up your brakes to the point of needing more surface area, on the street or durring an AutoX.
The best upgrade is to move to a larger rotor, which not only increase brake torque (due to the increase in leverage), but also greatly increases surface area and mass.
-----
in total.. you dont need anything cross-drilled or slotted.. blanks are just fine
---
The most commonly seen upgrade on rotors is to move to a drilled and slotted rotor of the same size. What people often fail to realize, is that set of “powerslot” or “powerdrilled” rotors are actually going to decrease performance.
Drilled and slotted rotors were originally designed to battle gasses that were given out when brake pads were heated to extreme temperatures. That gas would get trapped between the pad and the rotor, and become a barrier causing brake fade. The slots and drills gave the gas somewhere to escape. Modern pad technologies have allowed us to use materials that no longer give off gas. Further, quality brake pads have a slot designed into them, to allow any gas or vapors to escape.
The first problem with these rotors is you are sacrificing mass for surface area. While yes, drilling and slotting can increase surface area; it’s always at the sacrifice for mass. On the stock sized rotor, you really need all the mass you can get. As I stated earlier, once your rotor can no longer absorb heat, you are going to have a very hard time stopping.
Some times, the drilling does not even increase surface area… and it can even DECREASE it. When drilling a hole, you essentially create a cylinder. You gain surface area on the cylinder walls, but lose the face.
Surface area = 2*pi*r*h - 2*pi*r^2
If the radius of the drill is equal to the thickness of the rotor, you gain no surface area. If the radius is smaller, you gain surface area. Finally, if the radius is larger you lose surface area.
Example 1:
2 * 3.14 * 8 * 8 – 2 * 3.14 * 8^2 = 401.92 – 401.92 = 0
Example 2:
2 * 3.14 * 6 * 8 – 2 * 3.14 * 6^2 = 301.44 – 225.08 = +76.36
Example 3:
2* 3.14 * 10 * 8 – 2 * 3.14 * 10^2 = 502.4 – 628 = -125.6
If a rotor is to be drilled, it must be done correctly. The edges should be radiused or chamfered (To cut off the edge or corner of; bevel) as well as peened. Finally it needs to be stress tested to insure the drills can hold up to the heat with our cracking.
The most important thing to keep in mind with drilled or slotted rotors is eventually they will fail and crack. There is no way to drill a hole in the rotor with out reducing its structural integrity. You just have to hope you catch it soon enough and you are not heading into a turn at 90mph when it happens.
However, there are some advantages to drilling and slotting when done correctly. Keep in mind, you will not see any worthwhile benefits on stock sized rotors. (Which need all the mass they can get).
The edges of the slots and drills provide enough of a slight lip to increase initial bite of the pad. This is not going to be a dramatic increase in braking power, but it will give a nice initial feel.
Drills and slots can keep the surface of the pad clean. However this is rarely beneficial outside of rally racing.
Drilling and slotting can increase surface area. Again surface area radiates heat, and thus can provide better cooling.
Drilling and slotting does decrease some unsprung weight. This is hardly an advantage, as you are much better off spending money on high quality lightweight rims than something that directly effects your braking ability. Once you have spent all the money possible on lightweight suspension components and rims, then you can consider the very slight decrease in weight of a drilled rotor.
Ultimately, drilled and slotted rotors are worthless on stock sized rims. People often have the misidea that drilled or slotted rotors decrease stopping distance. This is incorrect. As the formula for brake torque shows, drilling and slotting rotors does not increase brake torque. Further, most people buy drilled and slotted rotors for street use, thinking they will increase cooling. Ultimately I don't care who you are, you are not going to continually heat up your brakes to the point of needing more surface area, on the street or durring an AutoX.
The best upgrade is to move to a larger rotor, which not only increase brake torque (due to the increase in leverage), but also greatly increases surface area and mass.
-----
in total.. you dont need anything cross-drilled or slotted.. blanks are just fine
11-28-2005, 12:06 PM
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Re: Brembo blanks or powerslot
I like my powerslots, nothing special but they look good and perform fine for my car. if you dont have a heavily modded engine your not really gonna notice the difference one way or the other. go with the price if you dont care about the look. I had blanks and personally its the same, imo 
11-28-2005, 12:15 PM
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Re: (camil212)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by camil212 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm looking to get either pbr or hawk pads.. I keep hearing about Hawk being really good. But if my budget don't allow me I'd go for the less expensive pbr. Thanks for your offer thought</TD></TR></TABLE>
the PBR/Axxis line of pads is pretty good. hawk pads are good, though i prefer carbotech or cobalt friction to hawk.
the thing to remember about xdrilled/slotted rotors is that they cool faster, but they have less heat capacity, and cooling is always secondary to heat capacity when it comes to performance braking and the rotor's function as a heat sink.
the PBR/Axxis line of pads is pretty good. hawk pads are good, though i prefer carbotech or cobalt friction to hawk.
the thing to remember about xdrilled/slotted rotors is that they cool faster, but they have less heat capacity, and cooling is always secondary to heat capacity when it comes to performance braking and the rotor's function as a heat sink.
11-28-2005, 05:20 PM
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Re: (bad-monkey)
I know drilled rotors are crap that's why I thought I would go with just some powerslots because they are not drilled just slotted.
11-28-2005, 05:49 PM
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Re: (camil212)
When you cut the rotors you are taking away surface area. The more rotor the pad has to bite on the faster you will stop. Thats why most people will tell you dont waste your money on powerslots or crossdrilled rotors. Also I heard they are known to warp and crack faster than blanks. The only need for a cross drilled rotor would be for an auto x that lasts long sessions to keep the rotors cool, but many pads need to heat up anyway before they begin to work properly. So that is why for everyday driving there not worth it and will only hurt performance.
11-28-2005, 07:15 PM
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Re: (lude98SH)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lude98SH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only need for a cross drilled rotor would be for an auto x that lasts long sessions to keep the rotors cool, but many pads need to heat up anyway before they begin to work properly. So that is why for everyday driving there not worth it and will only hurt performance. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, auto-x's by definition, are not long and never will be.
Race conditions or open lapping will put much more stress on a brake system, and that's when these rotors have the most potential to fail. x-drilled rotors are rarely, if ever--more like never-- found at the race track. Slots are a little more common, but keep in mind that they are found on cars with bigger budgets.
once again, quicker cooling isn't as important as being able to absorb more heat. you can improve cooling rates without having to sacrifice things like structural integrity, heat capacity, and lots of money by using things like brake ducts, finned calipers, cutting away the heatshield, etc.
Well, auto-x's by definition, are not long and never will be.
Race conditions or open lapping will put much more stress on a brake system, and that's when these rotors have the most potential to fail. x-drilled rotors are rarely, if ever--more like never-- found at the race track. Slots are a little more common, but keep in mind that they are found on cars with bigger budgets.
once again, quicker cooling isn't as important as being able to absorb more heat. you can improve cooling rates without having to sacrifice things like structural integrity, heat capacity, and lots of money by using things like brake ducts, finned calipers, cutting away the heatshield, etc.
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