so i got an alignment b/c i lowered my car and it was wearing through tires. the alignment guy and I couldn't get any more caster out of the car. i just wanted to get it close as possible b/c before and after the alignment it pulls to the right.

anyway, here's the sheet:



.orig.jpg for a bigger pic.

anyway, as you can see the right is minus by .75 degrees compared to the left and is what's causing the problem. i can't see anyway to get more positive caster out of the front. we tried adjusting the subframe but nothing. the only thing i can think of is to thread more of the radius rod and use a nut on both sides of the rod so we can tighten it closer or further to the subframe.

i've also heard of swapping UCA's on civic's and stuff but never heard anything about doing it on preludes.

any ideas guys? i'd like as much positive caster as i can get. (2+ degress)

 

why do u want the caster to be so positive?

 

what is the caster spec for your car? caster has very little effect on causing your vehicle to pull. toe has no effect. camber is the only major one. why not try and make your caster equal on both sides and see how it rides.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brolli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why do u want the caster to be so positive?</TD></TR></TABLE>

More caster improves steering feel & high speed stability. One of the reasons the SH model steering feels better is because of the increased caster over the base.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brolli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the caster spec for your car? caster has very little effect on causing your vehicle to pull. toe has no effect. camber is the only major one. why not try and make your caster equal on both sides and see how it rides.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Toe has a huge effect on your car pulling. Camber, very little.

 

having bad toe angles is the worst of all tire wearing angles but by the look of things, you have that handled. how are you adjusting caster? I thought there was no factory way of adjusting caster?

 

first off, caster does cause the car to pull if the difference between the 2 wheels is high. secondly, i adjusted camber by adding or subtracting washers at the base of the radius rod. adding washers creates more negative caster and subtracting washers adds positive. problem is, i don't have additional washers in the radius rods. i'm thinking that maybe i could heat up and somehow shrink the radius rod. or maybe slot the holes that hold the subframe on so i could just move the subframe.


btw, caster spec is pretty decent. somewhere between 1 and 3 degrees stock.

if you don't think caster is good, ride in a mercedes or a 240sx where they have like 6-10 degrees of caster. much improved grip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yOnKiNaToR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you don't think caster is good, ride in a mercedes or a 240sx where they have like 6-10 degrees of caster. much improved grip. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

how bout this, get a camber kit and watch all your measurements come back into spec. washers is one ghetto *** way to do it.

 

actually toe has no effect on your car pulling right or left. lets say you have 0 degrees toe on the left and 4 degrees toe out on the right. they will automatically become 2 degrees on the right and left and your steering wheel will be offset. no pull. same with the rear. if your thrust angle is to the right then your front wheels will also point to the right and your steering wheel will be to the right. called dog tracking. no pull. your car will pull the side with the least positive caster. also will pull to the side with the most positive camber. camber has a much greater effect on pull than caster. what are the dimension of your tires? if thier low profile i suggest you dont go over like -1.2 degrees camber or thier going to wear like hell. why dont you set the camber and caster so thier equal side to side. guarantee it wont pull.

 

i have 50 series tires and the only camber problem is the rear. when i get some money around i will get a rear kit. as for caster, i can make it even but at high speed the car is all over the place with no caster. i'd like to get more out of it so the car gains high speed stability.

do they make aftermarket radius rods of different lengths?

i've found this for caster adjustment. http://www.k-mac.com.au/makes/honda.htm

any other kits out there like it? any guys have them? how much do they allow for adjustment?


Modified by yOnKiNaToR at 3:19 PM 6/23/2005

 

bringing the post back from the dead:

just an idea on how to adjust the caster in case all of you guys are wondering. i heard of other ppl cutting their radius rod bushings. cutting them = more + caster. i don't know if i'd recommend cutting them if they're rubber but i have thick *** polyurethane bushings so i think that's what i'll do.

couple other questions: if i cut the bushing and adjust the caster that way, will it affect the alignment (toe basically). also, if i install a rear camber kit for the whole rear or just that one side will it affect the alignment?

also, i have the rear toe set to spec, but that's not 0. i know a little toe in on some cars is good. should i have it set to 0 next alignment to help tire wear or will it affect handling to dramatically?

 

bump

 

any answers on the last few questions?