I am having trouble recognizing what code my four wheel steer is throwing up. It comes up with two long flashes, a pause and then continuous really fast flashing for a large number of times. It is not possible to count these flashes as they are so fast.

I have tried resetting the ecu to see if that fixes the 4 wheel steering but the right up on here i was following didn't seem to work.

Any advice would be fantastic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC-LUDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am having trouble recognizing what code my four wheel steer is throwing up. It comes up with two long flashes, a pause and then continuous really fast flashing for a large number of times. It is not possible to count these flashes as they are so fast.

I have tried resetting the ecu to see if that fixes the 4 wheel steering but the right up on here i was following didn't seem to work.

Any advice would be fantastic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
is code 20. The long flashes are cound as 10 each and the short as 1 and the continuous "fast as hell" flashing means the end of the code.
So you have 2 long 2x10 and no short ones =20.

code 20 is involves some kind of few front and rear senceor replacemend. I have it too but but i've never got the time to look at it and fix it. Try fixing the problem and let me know how it goes

 

Nice one mate. What would happen If I reset the codes and how would i do this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC-LUDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice one mate. What would happen If I reset the codes and how would i do this?</TD></TR></TABLE>
To reset the codes u have to reset the whole car ecu by removing the battery negative cable for about 30sec. Is not a main rear stearing mechanism problem so by reseting the codes the 4WS system will work fine (don't know for sure but mine does) antil the problem show up again and the 4WS led lights up. To fix the problem you have to remove the bad sencors. Is something about the front & rear stearing position/angle sencor.

also there is a way to reset your 4ws codes without unpluging the battery cable

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by britishlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once you have grounded it properly to the chassis, here is a write up on how to reset it & cancel the light to get it working again.

.................................................. .................................................. ...................

As you know you drive in passenger seat!!!! for us so the location of the service connector could be on the opposite side.
It is located right side of the centre tunnel under the dashboard, when you look at it there is a removable carpeted cover where the centre tunnel ends under the dashboard.
After removing it you'll see 2 connectors plugged in a cover (they should be blue if I remember correcty). The small one which has 2 pins in it is the service connector, and you need to short these pins.
So if you can find it this is how it goes:
1. Apply the hand breake
2. Short the service connector pins with a paper clip or something
3. Turn the steering wheel to CLOCKWISE (right) 45-65 degrees and hold it that way
4. Turn the ignition switch to II(on) position but DON'T start your engine
You'll see that all your warning lights (SRS, ABS..will go on and off, don't pay attention on them),
5. After your 4WS light goes OFF, turn the steering wheel to CENTRE(turn it left) position within 4 seconds and hold it still
6. When your 4WS light turns on, turn your steering wheel to CLOCKWISE again to 45-60 degrees and hold still( again within 4 seconds)
7. When the 4WS light goes off turn it to centre position again within 4 seconds and hold it still.
8. If your 4WS light blinks twice(short bliks) then you succeeded.
If it stays on after these that means you could't erease the DTC so simply turn the ignition off and go back to step one and try again.

The tricky part with this procedure is that you should do all the steering inputs within 4 seconds so keep it in mind.

If you succeeded removing the DTC turn your ignition off, remove the short on the service connector, start your engine and check if it's working.

I know it looks complicated but it is very easy, I can do it within 2 minutes all it takes is a little practise and if you have difficulty shorting the service connector there is a plug goes into that to short it and it's part number is 07PAZ-0010100 which you can buy from Honda.

If you want to know what DTC it throws before resetting it do these:

1. Short the service connector pins
2.Turn your steering wheel to CLOCKWISE 90 degrees and keep it that way
3. Turn the ignition to II position but don't start the car
4. 4WS light will go on and off throwing the code(S)

It will be dim for 3 seconds,
After that a 1.2 sec. light means 10
Short light means 1 so if it blinks 1 long and 2 shorts it is DTC 12,
if you have more than one it will throw all of them and turn back to first one so take your time to get them correctly


</TD></TR></TABLE>


Modified by Buffalo at 10:04 PM 8/19/2006

 

Thanks alot mate. Thats great. Is that any different to removing and replacing the 10amp clock fuse? I've noticed the 4 wheel steer light goes off for a bit until the fault is found again if you do this...

how long does removing the batter negative cable enable the 4ws to function for on your car?

And lastly (sorry i'm absolutely clueless about all this 4ws!), If a fault code is stored and you do not reset it. Will the 4ws still function or do you have to erase all the fault codes first?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC-LUDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how long does removing the batter negative cable enable the 4ws to function for on your car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Much longer than engine ECU... 1 - 2 minutes will be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTEC-LUDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks alot mate. Thats great. Is that any different to removing and replacing the 10amp clock fuse? I've noticed the 4 wheel steer light goes off for a bit until the fault is found again if you do this...

how long does removing the batter negative cable enable the 4ws to function for on your car?

And lastly (sorry i'm absolutely clueless about all this 4ws!), If a fault code is stored and you do not reset it. Will the 4ws still function or do you have to erase all the fault codes first?</TD></TR></TABLE>

my 4ws usualy stays on as much time as the motor is running. It goes off when i shut the car and start it again, or sometimes the second time.

 

now i found a nice on/off switch that goes well with my other dash to hook it on the 4ws ecu power cable so i can reset my 4ws fom the inside without reseting the main ecu. Something like 4ws kill switch

 

Thanks guys! The four wheel steer works perfectly now and worked fine for a few journeys until it detected teh fault again. I have noticed when you turn the car off when the four wheel steer is not working there is an electrical ''buzzing'' noice coming from the rear of the car around where the wheel is.

I wondered what this might be and if it is to do with my code 20 4ws fault?

 

Hi All,

Although this is a very old chain, I have a 4WS trouble with the following warning light sequence:

2 long flashes
pause
7 long flashes
4 short flashes

Can anyone please help?

Thanks,

Paurav