3rd gen mods
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From: Auckland, NZ, New Zealand
Does anyone know any sites with information on mods for 3rd gens?
I've found a few, but they only have mods on a cold air intake, which involves moving the battery into the boot.
I haven't found anything else.
Do 3rd gens have much aftermarket support?
I've found a few, but they only have mods on a cold air intake, which involves moving the battery into the boot.
I haven't found anything else.
Do 3rd gens have much aftermarket support?
Do 3rd gens have much aftermarket support?
Sadly, no. That's why I got rid of my 91 Si
Aftermarket items made for B20A/B21A engines.
Intakes
Throttle bodies
FPR
cams
ignition
cam gears
Header
high flow cat
head internals
exhausts
turbos
performance clutch
VTEC conversions
internals
sus
ECUs
etc...
Pretty much the amount w/ any other honda, plus the stock engines aren't s**t like a Civic persay. Only draw back is hard to find the parts, and fuel management upgrades are hard to comeby. Such as intake manifold and rail...
http://www.3glude.com/antonio/ http://www.ludespeed.com/ http://www.gude.com/ http://www.hondaprelude.com/resources/article.asp?id=47 http://www.hondaprelude.com/setups/s...ted&order=DESC http://www.hondaprelude.com/setups/s...ted&order=DESC - And of course my '90 Sports Induction prelude. I say sports induction to remind people what the car is... Plus the motha phucka is under 2,400 lbs, and mine is a lot less.
This is a Ludespeed intake, same well thought out design as AEM, however AEM doesn't make intakes for B20A/B21A these work just as well...
You bet, love to see more 3rd generation prelude owners.
Also, if you want some great performance w/o spending a whole lot of money, just get a 4-2-1 peformance header (DC preferred), and a set of cam gears, good settings are -3/+3 i/e or -4/+4 i/e. Well, of course a dyno would give better results. No need to upgrade FPR. Stock pressure is good. If you don't want to lose some low-end keep stock intake, of course add a drop-in K&N though. Anyway, have fun, drive safe...
Also, if you want some great performance w/o spending a whole lot of money, just get a 4-2-1 peformance header (DC preferred), and a set of cam gears, good settings are -3/+3 i/e or -4/+4 i/e. Well, of course a dyno would give better results. No need to upgrade FPR. Stock pressure is good. If you don't want to lose some low-end keep stock intake, of course add a drop-in K&N though. Anyway, have fun, drive safe...
actually, i have found that the header is the only thing that gets rid of low end power. but that only gets rid of only a little bit of the low end power. after about 2000 rpms the power band really starts. i have just done an intake and custom exhaust without the header (yet) and i still have lots of low end power. my friend, who has the header and exhaust and no intake has no low end power until about 2000 rpms. so the header is what makes the powerband move higher. of course on the upside, the header adds 15 or so horsepower by itself, so it is well worth getting. what year and model do you have?
[Modified by crxplus, 4:08 AM 2/25/2002]
[Modified by crxplus, 4:08 AM 2/25/2002]
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Yeah, I think your right crxplus. I didn't really notice low-end loss, however it does make sence. Since up to 15 poines can be produced from an aftermarket header I would recommend buying one.
I've seen dyno's and tests from no gains of upgraded fuel management on a B21A/B20A. However, can increased volume such as from fuel pump increase power. I want to try something new that others w/ 3rd generation preludes havent yet.
[Modified by w00t!, 7:54 PM 2/27/2002]
I've seen dyno's and tests from no gains of upgraded fuel management on a B21A/B20A. However, can increased volume such as from fuel pump increase power. I want to try something new that others w/ 3rd generation preludes havent yet.
[Modified by w00t!, 7:54 PM 2/27/2002]
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