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Get bigger injectors!

Carbon_Lude98

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by justanotherlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This subject has been covered over po.com. To change the knock sensor it is above the oil filter a few inches. Not to hard to reach. Get the right extensions and sockets, and you should be fine.

Any more info though? You throwing a CEL?

As quoted on po.com "the knock sensor has a lot to do with timing. It is there to prevent detonation or engine knock from using lower octane fuels. If it senses knock, then it will turn down your timing, thus giving you less power"...."if your knock sensor is going crazy, then it is probably sending the wrong signals to the ecu and your fuel management is off"...

Marucci says also "I'm pretty sure that if the knock sensor fails (hard), the ECU treats it as if it's active, meaning it eliminates all spark advance and goes into limp mode. This should make the car feel like a brick with NO power. It would certainly feel like it hesitates, probably across the board.

If it's a spurious failure, i.e. you really are "knocking" or the sensor is for some reason too sensitive, you'll feel the power loss at different spots in the RPM band (which sounds like what you have)."


Modified by justanotherlude at 1:16 AM 10/21/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>


only thing with that is i get no loss of power...at all...beside the quick stall..in the 2.5-3.5k range my power is the same as it has always been..i also do not have a CEL light on... ..but i'll try getting the knock sensor and fuel filter changed...thanks for your post

yOnKiNaToR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by justanotherlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This subject has been covered over po.com. To change the knock sensor it is above the oil filter a few inches. Not to hard to reach. Get the right extensions and sockets, and you should be fine.

Any more info though? You throwing a CEL?

As quoted on po.com "the knock sensor has a lot to do with timing. It is there to prevent detonation or engine knock from using lower octane fuels. If it senses knock, then it will turn down your timing, thus giving you less power"...."if your knock sensor is going crazy, then it is probably sending the wrong signals to the ecu and your fuel management is off"...

Marucci says also "I'm pretty sure that if the knock sensor fails (hard), the ECU treats it as if it's active, meaning it eliminates all spark advance and goes into limp mode. This should make the car feel like a brick with NO power. It would certainly feel like it hesitates, probably across the board.

If it's a spurious failure, i.e. you really are "knocking" or the sensor is for some reason too sensitive, you'll feel the power loss at different spots in the RPM band (which sounds like what you have)."


Modified by justanotherlude at 1:16 AM 10/21/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>


that's why i mentioned the bit about the knock sensor. there has been tons of prelude hesitation posts and when i searched it seems like tons of ppl are having this and this is the only thing we can come up with. could excessive engine vibration set off the knock sensor? like maybe a loose metal bracket or something that would vibrate against other metal to set it off.

anybody run a p28 have this hesitation problem? b/c p28's don't read knock sensors.

98TypeSH

i got a p72 with the knock sensor DISABLED and i had that problem till i leaned it a bit.

Im telling you its not the knock sensor. You cant be crusing on the freeway just hangin out and it ONLY does it at that RPM no matter what gear your in.

Holding the throttle at about 3K, it felt like it would cut ignition. Its a real freak thing, and it bugged the **** out of me. Its not the knock sensor, replace it if you want but im running no knock sensor and i had the problem. We gotta figure out what causes this. So far the only thing i can think of is your running to rich, or something of that nature. Its not dirty injectors because it would do it all the time at all rpms, not just 2500-3K.

Only other thing i can think of is that ignition cylinder recall. Take your car to the dealer, it should be a FREE replacement as it was a recall. Just have them look at it at the very least to see if that could cause that type of hesitation. It was recalled because you could be driving on the freeway or what have you, and the motor would just flat out stall, cut out, that sort of thing. Give the dealer a call.

Revi

Somebody who is experiencing this should throw it on a dyno and see what the fuel looks like at that RPM spot. I dont think its fuel, i think its ignition related.

yOnKiNaToR

well, i tried setting distributor timing back a lot but it didn't work..still had lag and a lot less power...it does seem ignition related b/c it's worse in the hot humid summer days.

yOnKiNaToR

btw, is that recall for the ignition control module also for the 4th gen prelude?

luder22

How long has it been like this with the hesitation ?

Carbon_Lude98

mine just started like about a week ago..along with this tick.. my car is at honda right now, they are gonna look at it and let me know what wrong with it in the morning..if they fix it i will post and tell you guys what they did, so you can fix yours.

luder22

if it just started Here my opinion. I think the wires are failing probably grounding throught the stems.

it happened to me i used hi dielectric silicone srtrenght tape while i waited for new ones . i could see a ring on the stem also wheni inspected it. definitely let me know what honda says

Carbon_Lude98

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luder22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> definitely let me know what honda says </TD></TR></TABLE>

will do

GranPrix

Hey guys, I've got the same problem. Here's what I posted earlier on another thread:

"Alright guys, I searched here, on Hondasociety, Accordinlydone and CB7tuner and found that the problems I read were severe, nothing like my problem just a little similar. I get some hesitation right under 2k for about a second or two and somtimes under 3k, then above 2 and 3k everything is fine but only from a stand still, stop sign, or red light ect.. My intake manifold was cleaned inside and out and port and polished before installing it so I don't think its the EGR or the ports. My cap, rotor, plugs and wires are new. Any ideas?
thanks"

like it says, most of my ignition parts are new, its a 93' Accord swap so the recall thing doesn't even apply to me and I have the hesitaion.




Modified by ACCH22 at 4:36 PM 10/22/2004

98Preluder7

Hey man I have a suggestion, I kinda had the problem of the hesitation but I was told by someone to put in 2 quarts of Marvel Mystery Oil in the fill up of gas. Let your tank come close to empty put in the 2 quarts and fill up on 91+octane gas. After I did that, i never had the hesitation problem again and this was recently also. Anyways I'm not sayin it will work for your car but it doesn't hurt to try it.

Carbon_Lude98

got my car back, they did not fix a thing..had the timing belt and fuel filter changed did nothing still does it..i took it back and the guy told me that he belives "its that cold air intake, makes your car too lean"..i checked my plugs there white...after i put the plugs back and wires on..it stop doing it...i drove about 35 min and it did not do it any..mabey the wires were lose, if it comes back i'll post.
but so far im betting something to do with plugs or wires.

GranPrix

I'm going to check my plugs also. If they are white what does it mean and if they are brown what does that mean?

P R E L U D E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remember there being a recall on 5th gen ludes, that would cause the engine to stall during operation. It had something to do with the ignition in the steering column. Check with your dealer to see if this applies to your vehicle. If that is not the case, check your timing, also pull your plugs to see if you are running rich or anything of that nature. I had the same problem. leaned it up a little and it went away. Id check that ignition recall anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How did you lean it up a little bit? By turning your distributor? Honest question.

Carbon_Lude98

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACCH22 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm going to check my plugs also. If they are white what does it mean and if they are brown what does that mean?</TD></TR></TABLE>

black is rich
white is lean
brown is good
oil is bad

i thinks thats right..

GranPrix

thanks carbon

justanotherlude

Did anyone tryed changing their knock sensor?

JadedGamerX

Has anyone had this problem in the newer prelude generation (5th gen I beleive) as I do not have this hesitation and my car is a 2000 SH. I have roughly 45,000 miles if that helps anyone. I do have more engine noise than I expected however, is this to be axpected from the h22a4? Not the IAB system or VTEC, the sound of the valves and pistons and whatnot almost sound like they are slightly ticking.... my 94 accord with the f22b1 made the same noise, is this common to honda motors? I only have experience with my two vehicles and a d16 swapped civic hatch that did not make the noise, oh sorry, neither does my friends b16 ex civic.

98TypeSH

jaded, you need to have your valve lash checked. a valve adjustment will get rid of that annoying tick.

Anyone figured this **** out yet ?

Quade

Does this hesistation seems like a slipping clutch with the exception of the rpm rising? Example: the rpm does not rise or fall. If so I need at least one of you guys to try replacing the ignitor in the distributor and let me know how it goes.

psilo

Yo Carbon - my 1996 OBDII swapped into a 1992 SI is doing the same ****, right at that RPM too. Mine'll buck back and forth like im intentionally doing it on the gas pedal, but not.. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it doesn't. I used to be able to fix it by turningoff the car, then on, reversing, and going - but nothing fixes it now.

Timing checked in all aspects, okay. All filters checked - no mechanic can figure it out.

All this one guy thinks is that it might be that the car was wired incorrectly, since it was converted from obdI to II.

Please let me know if you figure anything out, im going to blow the piece of **** up. It's an embarrassment.

FORGOT TO SAY: I ALREADY REPLACED TRANNY AND CLUTCH AND FLYWHEEL TRYING TO FIX THIS HORSESHIT!

psilo

My rpms aren't really affected by my 2.5-3.5k rpm hesitation. I hear the noise of Bwahhh buhh Bwaaah buh Bwaaah buh as I and whoever im riding with are flying forward and backwards, but the rpms on the tach dont drop. As I said in my post above, already replaced tranny, clutch, and flywheel. All the obvious was checked by my shop, wires, plugs, filters, i don't even recall whatelse.. but it's still in existance hardcore.

God, if I had swapped an h22 into an accord and had this problem... I'd leave Honda forever.

98TypeSH

Exact same symptoms i had wen i thought i was fouling plugs. Its weird, i let my car have a vac leak and it goes away, lol. Hows your idle BTW? idle at normal rpms? Everyone with this problem check in with what rpm your car idles at.