that one guy

just a few teaser shots of the start of my fighter project. ill update as i go along.
stock




and with the rear torn apart



for those who have installed a full exhaust on an sv, how did you manage to get enough leverage to get the bolts attaching the pipe to the number two cylinder?

that one guy

question for those who have done a rear shock swap on their sv. im literally at the breaking point where i lose my mind. so the stock shock's lower fork is threaded on one side. the kawi 636 shock is not so i got a longer bolt and a nut. then the bolt was too long and hit the wishbones. so we marked where it needed to end and have been searching for days at all autozone's bike shops and so forth for a bolt just the right length. thought i found it tonight but its still just too long. so i decide to put a washer between one dogbone and that metal u shaped thing that connects the wishbones, bottom of hte shock and the frame. still doesn't work. can anyone tell me what i have to do to get this shock bolted in, im sure im missing the most obvious solution in the world. thanks for the help

sup gurl

Can't wait to see the final output

marmaladedad

I spy upside down boingies in the garage!!!

that one guy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladeboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I spy upside down boingies in the garage!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, this will be a hodge podge of 4 different bike manufacturers. does anyone have any advice on how to make this rear shock fit...cough redblacksv650 cough.... im hoping i get this all done before school starts up again, otherwise im gonna have to miss school . priorities ftw

rdblckSV650S

i used a bolt and a locking nut. The bolt was the perfect length, but once you tightened everything up the dog bones hit the end of the bolt. So i made the bolt the right length with a dremel.
With the dog bones off and the nut tightened and torqued down on the bolt i pretty much cut the bolt off at the end of the nut.
That's one solution. I don't know any other ideas.

that one guy

i thought of cutting the bolt but i only have a hack saw to cut it so that might take some time and effort. im gonna try this one place that is supposed to have every sized bolt imaginable and if they dont have it then im cuttin that thing. thanks.

rdblckSV650S

actually i ended up finishing my cut with a hacksaw because i couldn't get the dremel in there for the other half of the bolt.

If you're still working on the header bolts too the way my brother and i have been able to do it is with large socket extensions and an angle joint. There shouldn't be a whole lot of torque on those header bolts, i believe it's in the 20s or something.

The Hooligan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by that one guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, this will be a hodge podge of 4 different bike manufacturers. does anyone have any advice on how to make this rear shock fit...cough redblacksv650 cough.... im hoping i get this all done before school starts up again, otherwise im gonna have to miss school . priorities ftw </TD></TR></TABLE>


are u using the usd forks from the gsxr 600/750? just curious and good luck with the project

rdblckSV650S

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Hooligan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


are u using the usd forks from the gsxr 600/750? just curious and good luck with the project </TD></TR></TABLE>

i didn't read anything about USD forks in the thread.

The Hooligan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rdblckSV650S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i didn't read anything about USD forks in the thread.</TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladeboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I spy upside down boingies in the garage!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by that one guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah, this will be a hodge podge of 4 different bike manufacturers. does anyone have any advice on how to make this rear shock fit...cough redblacksv650 cough.... im hoping i get this all done before school starts up again, otherwise im gonna have to miss school . priorities ftw </TD></TR></TABLE>

rdblckSV650S

geez, i swear everyone on honda-tech either has extreme A.D.H.D. or eagle eyes because i never see all the little inane background things in people's photos.

Awesome looking forks by the way. If you're interested in a set of CBR954 clipons i've got a set

that one guy

ill put a full parts list when its done. i already have clip-ons but thanks for the offer. im actually considering if i wanna do handle bars or keep the clip ons. the only thing im still trying to figure out is the speed sensor and the headlight wiring. im also trying to find a clean place to mount the ignition on the side of the bike kinda like that all black 600rr that was recently posted. thanks for the tips and good words.

rdblckSV650S

there was just a post the other day on svrider about a speedo kit that you can easily piece together. I pieced mine together but was able to buy a set of jim's magnets and holders. The bracket and the hall effect sensor however i had to figure out myself.
Just make sure you solder the connections for the speedo sensor when you do it, otherwise it won't work.

that one guy

a little more progress and a few new questions.

finally got the shock to fit with a few washers and a bolt that just barely fits.


here is a shot of the new shock and new rear sets and a few pieces of the new exhaust installed


and now for the questions
where do i attach this return position spring on the new rear sets?


also, i was haveing a lot of trouble getting the f2 wheel to fit and i think i found why, does anyone know how i can fix this?
one side of the hub that the sprocket bolts to is raised up

as opposed to the other side which is flush



also, does anyone know about the mod to move the sv stock speed sensor to the rear wheel instead of fabing up a new one for the front and if this will work with a honda f2 rear wheel? i looked on svrider.com and only found one person who did this mod and it was on a stock sv rear wheel. thanks.

that one guy

anyone?

rdblckSV650S

You can move the speedo sensor to the rear wheel using a honda wheel because it has four rotor bolts and the speed sensor needs four polls.
But, it's not a perfect setup and the speedometer will be off. Not to mention you still have to fab up a bracket and get a hall effect sensor. You might as well just run it off the front wheel and get some rare earth magnets.

To me it looks like your cush drive just isn't set all the way in. Did you try pushing hard with your hand?

Nice job on the PP tuning rearsets. I really like mine. You don't need the spring for the PP tuning rearsets. That's only for the stock rear brake light activation switch, which you can't use with these rearsets, so be prepared to not have your brake light turn on from the rear brake, unless you get a pressure activated switch, which means bleeding your brake again.

rdblckSV650S

oh, and you said F2 rear wheel? Not F3?
The wheel needs to be 5" wide or it's not an upgrade from the stock wheel, and i was under the impression that all F2 wheels were 4.5"

HiPsi

Mmmm. Love sv's. Suspension is the best mod for those bikes. Stock is absolute garbage. Check out svrider.net I believe, been a while since Ive been there, but they can help you a lot.

Brian*

Nice to see that shock is being put to good use

that one guy

thanks to Brian* for the rear shock.

as for the spring on the rear sets, i wasnt planning on using the rear brake switch spring because i never use the rear brake alone but there is another spring, shorter, that pulls the stock brake pedal back from engaged after you release your foot. im assuming because you didnt mention anything about it, that neither it nor the brake switch spring are used with these rear sets.

i use f2 and f3 interchangeably because i thought that they used the same wheel. i have the wider one which ever that is and i was sure to measure before hand. stock sv uses a 160 wide tire and this has a 180.

it was the cush drive that was sticking out, i didnt know those just pop in and out. i tried pushing on it but i guess it just needed a mallot. i felt pretty dumb when i took it to a shop and the guy at the count just kicked it in and said "done" . the up side is i learned a lil more about how wheels are put together.

for the speed sensor, from what i understand, moving it to the rear wheel lets you use the stock sensor and stock magnets. here is the link i read it from:
http://www.socalsvriders.org/f...10167
i dont really know all the things he's talking about because i havent had a chance to take the front apart, as you can see from my pics and my rope/pully system i can only lift one side at a time. this whole thing is a learning process for me and im really just learning as i go along so maybe when i get the front taken apart and get the sensor ill be able to see if this will work with the honda wheel or not. unless anyone knows already.

thanks for everyone's help and comments, keep em comin

The Hooligan

what kind of exhaust are u running?

that one guy

leo vince high mount

The Hooligan

nice

rdblckSV650S

Alright, i read through that guys thread, and it's not worth it to me.
Most people run a 170 tire because the 180 is just overkill.
With that taken in to account you could expect to see more like a 12-15% speedo error on top of the stock 10%. Meaning, your speedo won't be worth a damn even after all that work. Not to mention he's doing that with a stock rear wheel, not an F3 rear wheel which requires different spacers, so there's no guarantee the stock speed sensor will even fit back there.
Cherry electrical makes the hall effect sensor you need, any hardware store sells sheets of aluminum, you can fashion a bracket out of that. Then you just need to get four evenly spaced magnets on the front brake rotor. There's plenty of threads on svrider about that if you need more guidance. But if it was me i wouldn't bother with the rear wheel speedo drive conversion.
I just checked my rearsets and i don't have any kind of return spring on my PP tuning ones, so you're fine.
I'd check to see that on the inside of one of your rear wheel's spokes it says something like "einke 5" rather than "einke 4.5"
I know you said it's already got a 180 on it, but i'd still double check. And if you haven't already gotten the spacers yet, Zoran's kit is the best. http://www.twinworksfactory.com