To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike...
08-06-2003, 06:50 PM
#1
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To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike...
Dammit! Do a search!! But if you're that lazy and have already clicked on this, then read:
I. Need a motorcycle license? Check out your local DMV to find out more information. Also, call up 1-800-CC-RIDER or check out http://www.msf-usa.org/.
II. You are most likely NOT too tall/short/fat/skinny/ugly/good-looking/etc to ride a bike.
A. If you're unsure if a bike will fit you, then go sit on one. That's the easiest way to find out whether or not you should be riding it.
B. If you've still got your heart set on a bike, even though it's too short, then there are always ways to shorten the ride height.
III. There are no bad beginner bikes. It all depends on how much respect you have for the bike and how much control you have over your ego. You will find that bikes with smaller engines and/or twins have throttles that are MUCH easier to modulate. Grabbing a handful of throttle won't get you into trouble as quickly as a big 1000cc bike. That being said, look into getting an older ('80s and '90s) bike, mostly because insurance premiums are lower and there is more aftermarket support available.
IV. Buying a bike - you're not just spending money on a motorcycle. You also have to buy insurance, PROPER gear that fits (if you're unsure, go try on some gear!), and have a little money on the side for incidentals (new tires, battery, whatever), just in case.
A. Financing - No, you're not going to get as good of a financing deal through a motorcycle dealership than an automobile dealership. There is less overhead for dealerships, and more people are likely to default on a motorcycle loan.
B. Try a credit union if you have access. They can usually get you lower rates.
C. If you absolutely must use a credit card, then be prepared to pay it off quickly. CC's usually have very high interest rates.
V. You WILL drop the bike. It may be at a standstill or while moving, even at 5mph. Be prepared! A cheaper bike will be less costly to repair and proper gear will help to prevent you from getting injuries. Plenty of people on this board have the battle scars to prove it.
(added on 11/3/03)
VI. Insurance - You have basically two choices: liability or full coverage. No matter what you ask or we reply, you should ask your insurance agent for a quote. Just because I'm paying $xxx for insurance does not mean you'll get the same rate. It depends on what bike you ride, where you live, your age, and various other factors. If you're financing, you NEED to have full coverage! Just ask around on this board...a few members' bikes were stolen, but they still have to make payments.
Does this answer all your questions? If not, then maybe you shouldn't be asking it!
But seriously, this should answer most of your questions. If not, please ask, but at least make an attempt at the "Search" feature.
(added on 12/27/04)
http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html
(credit - Apocalypse)
Modified by marmaladeboy at 9:01 PM 12/27/2004
I. Need a motorcycle license? Check out your local DMV to find out more information. Also, call up 1-800-CC-RIDER or check out http://www.msf-usa.org/.
II. You are most likely NOT too tall/short/fat/skinny/ugly/good-looking/etc to ride a bike.
A. If you're unsure if a bike will fit you, then go sit on one. That's the easiest way to find out whether or not you should be riding it.
B. If you've still got your heart set on a bike, even though it's too short, then there are always ways to shorten the ride height.
III. There are no bad beginner bikes. It all depends on how much respect you have for the bike and how much control you have over your ego. You will find that bikes with smaller engines and/or twins have throttles that are MUCH easier to modulate. Grabbing a handful of throttle won't get you into trouble as quickly as a big 1000cc bike. That being said, look into getting an older ('80s and '90s) bike, mostly because insurance premiums are lower and there is more aftermarket support available.
IV. Buying a bike - you're not just spending money on a motorcycle. You also have to buy insurance, PROPER gear that fits (if you're unsure, go try on some gear!), and have a little money on the side for incidentals (new tires, battery, whatever), just in case.
A. Financing - No, you're not going to get as good of a financing deal through a motorcycle dealership than an automobile dealership. There is less overhead for dealerships, and more people are likely to default on a motorcycle loan.
B. Try a credit union if you have access. They can usually get you lower rates.
C. If you absolutely must use a credit card, then be prepared to pay it off quickly. CC's usually have very high interest rates.
V. You WILL drop the bike. It may be at a standstill or while moving, even at 5mph. Be prepared! A cheaper bike will be less costly to repair and proper gear will help to prevent you from getting injuries. Plenty of people on this board have the battle scars to prove it.
(added on 11/3/03)
VI. Insurance - You have basically two choices: liability or full coverage. No matter what you ask or we reply, you should ask your insurance agent for a quote. Just because I'm paying $xxx for insurance does not mean you'll get the same rate. It depends on what bike you ride, where you live, your age, and various other factors. If you're financing, you NEED to have full coverage! Just ask around on this board...a few members' bikes were stolen, but they still have to make payments.
Does this answer all your questions? If not, then maybe you shouldn't be asking it!
But seriously, this should answer most of your questions. If not, please ask, but at least make an attempt at the "Search" feature.(added on 12/27/04)
http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html
(credit - Apocalypse)
Modified by marmaladeboy at 9:01 PM 12/27/2004
08-06-2003, 08:02 PM
#3
What is this crap?
Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (marmaladeboy)
one of my friends bought a bike, i wrote down everything i knew about motorcycles then:
I just heard that Arturbo bought a bike.
This is a rough draft of something I want Art to read.
There are several items listed here that many people will hesitate to agree on or completely disagree with. I am not perfect. These rules are the best I have come up with from personal experience, talking to lifetime riders, and reading accident reports/ motorcycle studies.Your results may vary. I am writing this to keep people safe. Even if something is wrong in here, it is making riders think about it. Corrections/ discussions/ new ideas are welcome.
What I have learned about motorcycling.
More fatalities are caused by oncoming cars making left turns in front of you than any other traffic situation.
Sportbikes are less stable the slower you go. That means the parking lot, approaching stop signs/lights, making turns in intersections are places where you’ll just drop the bike without knowing what happened.
Take the MSF course. Practice what you learned in there.
If you’re tired, sick, upset, or just don’t feel sharp, don’t ride.
Get the right gear: full face helmet, riding jacket, boots with ankle protection, and good gloves…wearing jeans as a bare minimum.
Try to get long term disability added to your health insurance. Its murphy’s law. If you get it, you’ll never need it.
Assume no one sees you. Plan accordingly.
Learn how to double swerve. That means making an evasive maneuver to avoid a car, person, dog, bicycle, tree, and then make another maneuver to get you back in your lane.
Always be aware of your options. They are typically: Slow down. Stop. Swerve. Double swerve. Or downshift and add power.
Front brake is 80% of braking. If you get on the rear brake hard you’ll skid and wreck. They make you experience this in the MSF course.
The rear brake should only be applied to supplement the front brake. Using them together 80/20, you can minimize the bikes braking distance.
If you brake really hard while the bike is leaned over in a sharp turn, the bike will stand up. Always be aware of your entry speed into a turn.
Where you look is where you go. Commit this to memory. This means when you identify a road hazard, use your eyes to find your evasive maneuver. If you stare at a hazard, you’re going to hit it.
Countersteering: Above 10mph, push right go right. Push left, go left. It will make sense when you give it a try.
The physics behind the dynamics of a motorcycle are complex enough to write a graduate thesis paper on them. Fortunately, you don’t have to. But you do have to learn, understand, and experience the forces involved in controlling the bike, the throttle, and the using the traction of the road.
Racing a car is a quick way to become a grease spot on the road. 99% of all bikes are faster than 99% of all cars. You can pretty much beat any car hands down. If you have to prove it on a regular basis, go fill out your last will and testament.
Plastic fairings are expensive. Look into frame sliders.
Frame sliders can break easily, especially of you drop the bike at 25mph or more.
Oil, water, cold weather, manhole covers, painted lines, sand, gravel, paper bags, plastic bags all will reduce traction and cause you to lose control of your bike.
If you are riding on a low traction surface, minimize the amount of steering/braking/acceleration changes you make, until you get back on clean pavement. (Just like driving a car over an iced bridge.)
All rodents, cats, dogs, squirrels, deer, etc can and will eventually decide to be in the same place in the road as you are at some point. Plan accordingly.
Motorcycle tires are good for a fraction of the miles of a car tire. They are made of a softer compound to give you more traction. The contact patch of a motorcycle tire is much smaller than that of a car, since they are round (and there is only 2 of them). Aggressive riders go thru tires once a year/season.
The amount of traction you have at any moment is limited. Its like you have a traction budget. Turning, accelerating, braking all take away from your budget. If any one exceeds the amount of traction you have, you’re going to lose traction.
Turning uses some of the ‘traction budget’ you have. It can use all of it if you push it too hard. Accelerating/braking while turning will quickly use up your traction budget.
Bugs can hurt. They can also explode on contact with your body/face/helmet etc.
Always be aware of your chain tension. If it is out of spec, its shortening the life of the front and rear sprocket, as well as the chain itself.
Lube your chain as often as it takes to keep it properly lubricated. Silicone lubes are easy to use and clean off, are applied easily with aerosol cans, and should be applied after every hard ride.
Chicken strips are the unused parts of the tire that are furthest from the center. Don’t judge riders based on how thick their chicken strips are. Some riders can have large chicken strips and will burn you in the corners. Its all about the lean.
Shifting your body weight towards the inside of a turn will make the bike turn more with less bike lean. Getting your weight off the center of the bike’s vertical axis can make the bike more stable through a turn, but it can also put you in a vulnerable position if you encounter a hazard. Shifting your weight excessively / dragging your knee in corners on the street should be done conservatively on the street. It does look cool, feel cool, and its lots of fun, but extreme riding needs to be contained to ‘controlled situations’, such as a track.
Riding on the street is never riding in a ‘controlled situation’.
Even if you make eye contact with another driver, they still can and will fail to realize they have to share the streets with you. Plan accordingly.
When you get surrounded by 1, 2 or more cars, in an urban setting with side streets and / or a shared turn lane in the middle, its ok to downshift and get the RPMs up in case you need to make an evasive maneuver.
The more, sporty the sportbike, the closer to redline the powerband is. Know how to get into the powerband if you need to scoot.
Most bikes will wheelie with the flick of your right wrist. Know the limits of your bike. A surprise wheelie in traffic can be unpleasant.
Wheelies can turn into you falling off the back of the bike quickly. Technically its called a high moment of inertia, non-technically its referred to as: you just fell on your *** and your bike is probably totalled up since its tumbling end over end down the road.
The faster you go, the higher the chances of serious injury or fatality. Its not a linear relationship though. Generally speaking, above 50mph is when the chances of serious injury increase dramatically.
Large trucks on the highway can be hazardous to your health. They can lift things like 4ft by 8 ft sheets of plywood, not to mention rocks the size of walnuts. (see my helmet.)
You have no bumper, seatbelts, airbags, traction control or ABS brakes (save a few high end Honda cruiser/tourers). Your error margin is small. You have to stay within the safety envelope. Every rider breaks this rule at some point. Try not to break it often.
If you’re going to lose control of your bike at 120+mph, your gear only benefits the fire department in cleaning up the accident scene.
Most helmets meet all of the safety requirements (DOT, SNELL). The cost of the helmet is directly proportional to the comfort of the helmet. Also, as cost goes up, the weight goes down.
Different helmet brands are shaped differently. Some fit oval heads better. Some fit round heads better.
Despite what people will say, its very difficult to purchase helmets / riding boots without trying them on first.
Boots that claim to keep your feet dry from rain will cause your feet to get wet with sweat.
All motorcycle maintenance items / repair costs cost 2 – 4 times more than for cars.
Tire pressure affects handling characteristics more than with cars.
Most bikes have adjustable suspensions. The suspension damping/preload should be set for the weight of the rider/passenger/gear/equipment.
Carburetors are finicky. They give bikes personality. Learn as much as you can, and resist tweaking a bike that’s running fine.
Most bikes have multiple carburetors. Synchronizing carburetors regularly can help with how smooth the engine runs.
Don't forget to turn the choke off once the bike is warmed up.
Carbs are sensitive to: temperature, humidity, altitude, fuel octane, engine timing, engine temperature, brand of fuel, fuel additives, valve clearance. You name it.
Motorcycles vibrate. A lot. Check bolts at every major servicing.
If you have to use your reserve, don’t forget to put the petcock back to ‘on’ after filling up. You don’t want to push the bike. It will kill your back.
Use the bike’s odometer to gauge when you need to stop for fuel, even if your bike has a fuel gauge.
Get a factory service manual for your bike, even if you have a shop do all the service. They are generally inexpensive, and knowing your machine is an important element in riding safe.
Riding a motorcycle is much more interesting, exciting, entertaining, thrilling, demanding, and fatiguing than riding a car. Don’t expect to ride 600 miles per day on a crotch rocket until you’re actually done it.
The sportier the bike, the less time you can ride it without a break from the numbing vibration/ harsh suspension/ cramped position.
Motorcycling is a unique, diverse, and challenging experience. Mastering it is one of the most rewarding experiences that doesn’t require a member of the opposite sex. Inclusion of the opposite sex is highly recommended, as long as its not diverting your undivided attention to the road.
Riding in groups is fun. The newest riders should lead the group. They need to become accustomed to deciding where to go, identify hazards, and be responsible for other riders. New riders in the back of a group learn to fixate on the rear tire of the person in front of them. (This was a factor in my wreck).
The testosterone level in a male rider in a group is equal to the sum of the testosterone levels of all the males riding in a group. Don’t push yourself beyond your means.
As dangerous and scary as all these things make motorcycling sound, there is still nothing like it, and its completely worth it, as long as you do the right things to mitigate the risks involved.
Have fun!
full thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=104519
I just heard that Arturbo bought a bike.
This is a rough draft of something I want Art to read.
There are several items listed here that many people will hesitate to agree on or completely disagree with. I am not perfect. These rules are the best I have come up with from personal experience, talking to lifetime riders, and reading accident reports/ motorcycle studies.Your results may vary. I am writing this to keep people safe. Even if something is wrong in here, it is making riders think about it. Corrections/ discussions/ new ideas are welcome.
What I have learned about motorcycling.
More fatalities are caused by oncoming cars making left turns in front of you than any other traffic situation.
Sportbikes are less stable the slower you go. That means the parking lot, approaching stop signs/lights, making turns in intersections are places where you’ll just drop the bike without knowing what happened.
Take the MSF course. Practice what you learned in there.
If you’re tired, sick, upset, or just don’t feel sharp, don’t ride.
Get the right gear: full face helmet, riding jacket, boots with ankle protection, and good gloves…wearing jeans as a bare minimum.
Try to get long term disability added to your health insurance. Its murphy’s law. If you get it, you’ll never need it.
Assume no one sees you. Plan accordingly.
Learn how to double swerve. That means making an evasive maneuver to avoid a car, person, dog, bicycle, tree, and then make another maneuver to get you back in your lane.
Always be aware of your options. They are typically: Slow down. Stop. Swerve. Double swerve. Or downshift and add power.
Front brake is 80% of braking. If you get on the rear brake hard you’ll skid and wreck. They make you experience this in the MSF course.
The rear brake should only be applied to supplement the front brake. Using them together 80/20, you can minimize the bikes braking distance.
If you brake really hard while the bike is leaned over in a sharp turn, the bike will stand up. Always be aware of your entry speed into a turn.
Where you look is where you go. Commit this to memory. This means when you identify a road hazard, use your eyes to find your evasive maneuver. If you stare at a hazard, you’re going to hit it.
Countersteering: Above 10mph, push right go right. Push left, go left. It will make sense when you give it a try.
The physics behind the dynamics of a motorcycle are complex enough to write a graduate thesis paper on them. Fortunately, you don’t have to. But you do have to learn, understand, and experience the forces involved in controlling the bike, the throttle, and the using the traction of the road.
Racing a car is a quick way to become a grease spot on the road. 99% of all bikes are faster than 99% of all cars. You can pretty much beat any car hands down. If you have to prove it on a regular basis, go fill out your last will and testament.
Plastic fairings are expensive. Look into frame sliders.
Frame sliders can break easily, especially of you drop the bike at 25mph or more.
Oil, water, cold weather, manhole covers, painted lines, sand, gravel, paper bags, plastic bags all will reduce traction and cause you to lose control of your bike.
If you are riding on a low traction surface, minimize the amount of steering/braking/acceleration changes you make, until you get back on clean pavement. (Just like driving a car over an iced bridge.)
All rodents, cats, dogs, squirrels, deer, etc can and will eventually decide to be in the same place in the road as you are at some point. Plan accordingly.
Motorcycle tires are good for a fraction of the miles of a car tire. They are made of a softer compound to give you more traction. The contact patch of a motorcycle tire is much smaller than that of a car, since they are round (and there is only 2 of them). Aggressive riders go thru tires once a year/season.
The amount of traction you have at any moment is limited. Its like you have a traction budget. Turning, accelerating, braking all take away from your budget. If any one exceeds the amount of traction you have, you’re going to lose traction.
Turning uses some of the ‘traction budget’ you have. It can use all of it if you push it too hard. Accelerating/braking while turning will quickly use up your traction budget.
Bugs can hurt. They can also explode on contact with your body/face/helmet etc.
Always be aware of your chain tension. If it is out of spec, its shortening the life of the front and rear sprocket, as well as the chain itself.
Lube your chain as often as it takes to keep it properly lubricated. Silicone lubes are easy to use and clean off, are applied easily with aerosol cans, and should be applied after every hard ride.
Chicken strips are the unused parts of the tire that are furthest from the center. Don’t judge riders based on how thick their chicken strips are. Some riders can have large chicken strips and will burn you in the corners. Its all about the lean.
Shifting your body weight towards the inside of a turn will make the bike turn more with less bike lean. Getting your weight off the center of the bike’s vertical axis can make the bike more stable through a turn, but it can also put you in a vulnerable position if you encounter a hazard. Shifting your weight excessively / dragging your knee in corners on the street should be done conservatively on the street. It does look cool, feel cool, and its lots of fun, but extreme riding needs to be contained to ‘controlled situations’, such as a track.
Riding on the street is never riding in a ‘controlled situation’.
Even if you make eye contact with another driver, they still can and will fail to realize they have to share the streets with you. Plan accordingly.
When you get surrounded by 1, 2 or more cars, in an urban setting with side streets and / or a shared turn lane in the middle, its ok to downshift and get the RPMs up in case you need to make an evasive maneuver.
The more, sporty the sportbike, the closer to redline the powerband is. Know how to get into the powerband if you need to scoot.
Most bikes will wheelie with the flick of your right wrist. Know the limits of your bike. A surprise wheelie in traffic can be unpleasant.
Wheelies can turn into you falling off the back of the bike quickly. Technically its called a high moment of inertia, non-technically its referred to as: you just fell on your *** and your bike is probably totalled up since its tumbling end over end down the road.
The faster you go, the higher the chances of serious injury or fatality. Its not a linear relationship though. Generally speaking, above 50mph is when the chances of serious injury increase dramatically.
Large trucks on the highway can be hazardous to your health. They can lift things like 4ft by 8 ft sheets of plywood, not to mention rocks the size of walnuts. (see my helmet.)
You have no bumper, seatbelts, airbags, traction control or ABS brakes (save a few high end Honda cruiser/tourers). Your error margin is small. You have to stay within the safety envelope. Every rider breaks this rule at some point. Try not to break it often.
If you’re going to lose control of your bike at 120+mph, your gear only benefits the fire department in cleaning up the accident scene.
Most helmets meet all of the safety requirements (DOT, SNELL). The cost of the helmet is directly proportional to the comfort of the helmet. Also, as cost goes up, the weight goes down.
Different helmet brands are shaped differently. Some fit oval heads better. Some fit round heads better.
Despite what people will say, its very difficult to purchase helmets / riding boots without trying them on first.
Boots that claim to keep your feet dry from rain will cause your feet to get wet with sweat.
All motorcycle maintenance items / repair costs cost 2 – 4 times more than for cars.
Tire pressure affects handling characteristics more than with cars.
Most bikes have adjustable suspensions. The suspension damping/preload should be set for the weight of the rider/passenger/gear/equipment.
Carburetors are finicky. They give bikes personality. Learn as much as you can, and resist tweaking a bike that’s running fine.
Most bikes have multiple carburetors. Synchronizing carburetors regularly can help with how smooth the engine runs.
Don't forget to turn the choke off once the bike is warmed up.
Carbs are sensitive to: temperature, humidity, altitude, fuel octane, engine timing, engine temperature, brand of fuel, fuel additives, valve clearance. You name it.
Motorcycles vibrate. A lot. Check bolts at every major servicing.
If you have to use your reserve, don’t forget to put the petcock back to ‘on’ after filling up. You don’t want to push the bike. It will kill your back.
Use the bike’s odometer to gauge when you need to stop for fuel, even if your bike has a fuel gauge.
Get a factory service manual for your bike, even if you have a shop do all the service. They are generally inexpensive, and knowing your machine is an important element in riding safe.
Riding a motorcycle is much more interesting, exciting, entertaining, thrilling, demanding, and fatiguing than riding a car. Don’t expect to ride 600 miles per day on a crotch rocket until you’re actually done it.
The sportier the bike, the less time you can ride it without a break from the numbing vibration/ harsh suspension/ cramped position.
Motorcycling is a unique, diverse, and challenging experience. Mastering it is one of the most rewarding experiences that doesn’t require a member of the opposite sex. Inclusion of the opposite sex is highly recommended, as long as its not diverting your undivided attention to the road.
Riding in groups is fun. The newest riders should lead the group. They need to become accustomed to deciding where to go, identify hazards, and be responsible for other riders. New riders in the back of a group learn to fixate on the rear tire of the person in front of them. (This was a factor in my wreck).
The testosterone level in a male rider in a group is equal to the sum of the testosterone levels of all the males riding in a group. Don’t push yourself beyond your means.
As dangerous and scary as all these things make motorcycling sound, there is still nothing like it, and its completely worth it, as long as you do the right things to mitigate the risks involved.
Have fun!
full thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=104519
The following users liked this post:
08-06-2003, 08:43 PM
#5
What is this crap?
Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (streetlights)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetlights »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks...but theres not much if you search</TD></TR></TABLE>
this thread will have some good stuff in it for those who dont know how to use the search feature.
this thread will have some good stuff in it for those who dont know how to use the search feature.
08-06-2003, 09:50 PM
#7
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (Frito1)
nice... can we get a mod to sticky this at the top?
edit by moderator - already done!
edit by moderator - already done!
Trending Topics
08-06-2003, 09:51 PM
#8
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (streetlights)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetlights »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks...but theres not much if you search</TD></TR></TABLE>
So your question is...?
So your question is...?
08-06-2003, 09:56 PM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (marmaladeboy)
i dont gotta question...i thought you posted this because i posted askin about what bike i should begin with after i searched and found nothin....this is good though...if i woulda seen somethin like this i wouldnt have made my topic....once again...thanks for makin this post
08-06-2003, 10:40 PM
#10
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (streetlights)
Being a new rider myself with about 4,000 miles in the past few months I got some tips to post.
1. Don't ride in group with people you don't know well.
Usually group rides end up being a test to see who's the fastest. Almost alway this leads to people riding over their heads. Even if your a slow or normal paced rider it's very hard to not "go with the flow" of the group. I know this first hand and I scraed my self a few times even on my beginner bike. If at any point you feel uncomfortable in your ride, pull over and take a break. If you feel you don't want to be the slow one of the group let the ride leader know and leave the group. After riding with a few different groups I now have some regualr guys I ride with even though ride very fast still wait for slower riders every 10 miles.
2. Like some one else posted, if your the least bit tired or thinking about something, drive instead of ride.
The other week I was feeling a bit tired and bored so I took a trip down Highway 1 to Santa Cruz on my bike. Well after riding for a few hours I got to be really tired and started to make simple mistakes on the ride. At one point I came very close to rear ending a car on the freeway during stop and go traffic. Motorcycle riding takes much more attention than driving, don't make it harder by riding tired.
3. Wear your gear all the time.
Invest in some good quality gear such as Alpinestars, and wear it every ride. At first it might seem like too much trouble but after a few times you'll get used to wearing it. Even riding without your regular gear you will start to feel "naked" and unprotected. Leather is best but textile will work just don't expect too much from it.
4. Ride like everyone is trying to kill you.
Since most of the people here drive smaller cars we are already used to SUV's and truck cutting us off. It gets worse on a bike. Most people are either ok with motorcycles or they hate them. Seems like in CA it's about 50/50 and it only takes one person to end your day. Also watch out for certian cars like Camaro's, Mustangs, where the drivers have to race everything they see. When riding my bike it's almost a daily occurance where a car tries to race me.
5. Start small, motorcycling is a life of fun not just a summer.
Just in my 6 months of riding I seen people start on R1's and end up crashing because they couldn't handle the bike. Don't fool your self into thinking you can ride a 600 or 1000 just because you survived going to the store and back. The real test begins when a car pulls out in front of you and your coming in too hot in a corner. Starting with a beginner bike is no shame but crashing is. I started with my Ninja 250 after riding a few bikes on and off. At first I was alittle intimated by the other riders with their 600's and 1000's but they were very helpful and not once did anyone make fun of my bike. Also don't follow what the magazines report as "a great beginner 600". The magazines sell bikes and want the latest bike to be approachable by even the most newest riders. Also to people who want to start on a 1000. I think you should first drive a 11 second car on the track to understand what the power feels like. It's undescribable to say in words what 120hp feels like on a 450lbs bike but it's not something for a new rider.
Finally always ask questions when needed. I found that the motorcycle community is very helpful. If your bike is stalled and not starting I will almost bet the first person to stop will be a passing motorcyclist.
Here is some other message boards (mods edit if needed) for additional information.
http://www.sportbikes.net (great newbie forum)
http://www.beginnerbikes.com (good idea of what is a beginner bike)
http://www.trackjunkie.com (keep the racing on the track and off the streets)
http://www.kneedraggers.com (good priced gear)
http://www.newenough.com (awesome gear shop)
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com (Nor Cal motorcycle forum, I'm robscomputer on it)
Any questions just IM me.
Rob
1. Don't ride in group with people you don't know well.
Usually group rides end up being a test to see who's the fastest. Almost alway this leads to people riding over their heads. Even if your a slow or normal paced rider it's very hard to not "go with the flow" of the group. I know this first hand and I scraed my self a few times even on my beginner bike. If at any point you feel uncomfortable in your ride, pull over and take a break. If you feel you don't want to be the slow one of the group let the ride leader know and leave the group. After riding with a few different groups I now have some regualr guys I ride with even though ride very fast still wait for slower riders every 10 miles.
2. Like some one else posted, if your the least bit tired or thinking about something, drive instead of ride.
The other week I was feeling a bit tired and bored so I took a trip down Highway 1 to Santa Cruz on my bike. Well after riding for a few hours I got to be really tired and started to make simple mistakes on the ride. At one point I came very close to rear ending a car on the freeway during stop and go traffic. Motorcycle riding takes much more attention than driving, don't make it harder by riding tired.
3. Wear your gear all the time.
Invest in some good quality gear such as Alpinestars, and wear it every ride. At first it might seem like too much trouble but after a few times you'll get used to wearing it. Even riding without your regular gear you will start to feel "naked" and unprotected. Leather is best but textile will work just don't expect too much from it.
4. Ride like everyone is trying to kill you.
Since most of the people here drive smaller cars we are already used to SUV's and truck cutting us off. It gets worse on a bike. Most people are either ok with motorcycles or they hate them. Seems like in CA it's about 50/50 and it only takes one person to end your day. Also watch out for certian cars like Camaro's, Mustangs, where the drivers have to race everything they see. When riding my bike it's almost a daily occurance where a car tries to race me.
5. Start small, motorcycling is a life of fun not just a summer.
Just in my 6 months of riding I seen people start on R1's and end up crashing because they couldn't handle the bike. Don't fool your self into thinking you can ride a 600 or 1000 just because you survived going to the store and back. The real test begins when a car pulls out in front of you and your coming in too hot in a corner. Starting with a beginner bike is no shame but crashing is. I started with my Ninja 250 after riding a few bikes on and off. At first I was alittle intimated by the other riders with their 600's and 1000's but they were very helpful and not once did anyone make fun of my bike. Also don't follow what the magazines report as "a great beginner 600". The magazines sell bikes and want the latest bike to be approachable by even the most newest riders. Also to people who want to start on a 1000. I think you should first drive a 11 second car on the track to understand what the power feels like. It's undescribable to say in words what 120hp feels like on a 450lbs bike but it's not something for a new rider.
Finally always ask questions when needed. I found that the motorcycle community is very helpful. If your bike is stalled and not starting I will almost bet the first person to stop will be a passing motorcyclist.
Here is some other message boards (mods edit if needed) for additional information.
http://www.sportbikes.net (great newbie forum)
http://www.beginnerbikes.com (good idea of what is a beginner bike)
http://www.trackjunkie.com (keep the racing on the track and off the streets)
http://www.kneedraggers.com (good priced gear)
http://www.newenough.com (awesome gear shop)
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com (Nor Cal motorcycle forum, I'm robscomputer on it)
Any questions just IM me.
Rob
08-06-2003, 10:55 PM
#11
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (rob_d16y8)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rob_d16y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com (Nor Cal motorcycle forum, I'm robscomputer on it)
Any questions just IM me.
Rob
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm big pete on BARF
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com (Nor Cal motorcycle forum, I'm robscomputer on it)
Any questions just IM me.
Rob
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm big pete on BARF
08-06-2003, 11:22 PM
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (big pete)
Wow, goodjob on this post, I was going to make one but I couldn't think of a good list of things, all of yours however are pretty perfect.
Also get your M license before you get your bike, that's one of the biggest mistakes people make.
PS: Sticky this forever!
Also get your M license before you get your bike, that's one of the biggest mistakes people make.
PS: Sticky this forever!
08-07-2003, 07:04 AM
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (marmaladeboy)
Good, cept I disagree on "There are no bad beginner bikes." but to each his own. Maybe it's just that I get tired of fixing bike after bike of people who think "I just need to learn some throttle control"
08-07-2003, 12:33 PM
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (wildstallion)
Which is a good thing, since you won't have to sift through the topics trying to ignore those you don't need to reply to. 
project_mercy - When you say fixing bike after bike, do you mean framework or bodywork? Do you want some more business? (I need my fairings painted).
project_mercy - When you say fixing bike after bike, do you mean framework or bodywork? Do you want some more business? (I need my fairings painted).
08-07-2003, 01:51 PM
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (marmaladeboy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladeboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">project_mercy - When you say fixing bike after bike, do you mean framework or bodywork? Do you want some more business? (I need my fairings painted). </TD></TR></TABLE>
Dear god, I don't need more work
I mostly mean primarily replacing or rigging (I really could stand to get a nice TIG welder) the appropriate mechanical parts to make the bike roadworthy again. While I have been known to reinforce plastics to get them back on the bike (and do a rattle-can prime job), I'm not up to welding and painting the plastics, primarily due to space issues.
So, example would be: Replacing a broken clip on, clutch lever, re-fabricating fairing mounts that got destroyed, and prepping the bike for some OTHER sucker to paint it
Or, conversly, harping on people till they buy frame sliders, and installing those.
Back on topic:
I'm not actually against people starting on large displacement bikes. I'm against people starting on bikes that weight more, have a more extreme riding position, and a suspension setup to exacerbate the situation when they do over-gas it. It just so happens that that's what you get with the open-class bikes or even the latest supersports.
Example: I wouldn't balk as much at someone buying an FZ1 as a starter bike as I would an R6, and the FZ1 is just as powerful below 8k rpms (if not more torque'ie).
It also doesn't have as much plastic to munge up
GL on getting yours fixed. If not, fur it up
</TD></TR></TABLE>Dear god, I don't need more work
I mostly mean primarily replacing or rigging (I really could stand to get a nice TIG welder) the appropriate mechanical parts to make the bike roadworthy again. While I have been known to reinforce plastics to get them back on the bike (and do a rattle-can prime job), I'm not up to welding and painting the plastics, primarily due to space issues.
So, example would be: Replacing a broken clip on, clutch lever, re-fabricating fairing mounts that got destroyed, and prepping the bike for some OTHER sucker to paint it
Or, conversly, harping on people till they buy frame sliders, and installing those.
Back on topic:
I'm not actually against people starting on large displacement bikes. I'm against people starting on bikes that weight more, have a more extreme riding position, and a suspension setup to exacerbate the situation when they do over-gas it. It just so happens that that's what you get with the open-class bikes or even the latest supersports.
Example: I wouldn't balk as much at someone buying an FZ1 as a starter bike as I would an R6, and the FZ1 is just as powerful below 8k rpms (if not more torque'ie).
It also doesn't have as much plastic to munge up
GL on getting yours fixed. If not, fur it up
08-07-2003, 04:44 PM
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (project_mercy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project_mercy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
GL on getting yours fixed. If not, fur it up
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL!
Like this bike?
http://www.geocities.com/~marm...r.jpg
GL on getting yours fixed. If not, fur it up
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL!
Like this bike?
http://www.geocities.com/~marm...r.jpg
08-08-2003, 07:07 AM
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (marmaladeboy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marmaladeboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
LOL!
Like this bike?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Man, that thing just needs a disco ball and a goldfish tank, and it's good to go.
LOL!
Like this bike?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Man, that thing just needs a disco ball and a goldfish tank, and it's good to go.
08-08-2003, 11:56 AM
#22
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (project_mercy)
This is an awesome post. Thanks guys.
is enjoying the hell out of his 50cc motorbike
is enjoying the hell out of his 50cc motorbike
08-09-2003, 08:53 AM
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (falconGSR)
There's one thing you guys forgot to explain to us MC noobs...GeorgiaJDM's lowside. I think I've seen more comments about that than anything..Also is his avatar his GF? If so..way to go man, nothing like southern beauty, I love georgia
08-09-2003, 09:34 AM
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Re: To all beginners/newbies asking about getting a new bike... (falconGSR)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey should we make this a sticky?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you decide to make it a sticky, we should edit out some of the non-relevant posts (I think they're mostly my irrelevant posts). Less garbage to sift through.
If you decide to make it a sticky, we should edit out some of the non-relevant posts (I think they're mostly my irrelevant posts). Less garbage to sift through.