Help--
We have a 2000 CRV with 138K miles. I set the valve clearances about a month ago, and now after about 1500 miles it is running rough at idle, seems to smooth out some at higher revs, but 'check' engine light flashes. There is also a very high pitched whistle (vacuum leak??) that I can barely hear, but I do have hearing aids and some loss at high frequencies... Any ideas out there??
There is also a heavy ticking sound like maybe rocker arm tapping.
Thanks,
John & Sue


Modified by sjthaxter at 11:50 AM 10/26/2007

 

Thanks for the quick response. I'll check the valves. Can you tell me which SB it is? I think I have a link to those on another site.
Regards,
Sue & John

 

Ross--
I rechecked the valves, and they are all correct. The plugs are about 30K miles, and gaps had opened up to nearly .050". I regapped them, and when I started it cold it is more surging and still running rough. Will probably take it to Autozone or someplace and get them to check the plug-in deal.
Thanks,
John & Sue

 

Most likely you have the infamous valve recess issue. It is common on your year. There is a TSB but with your miles it wont help, as Honda's fix for it in the TSB is replacing the head... Plus I am sure you will be throwing misfire codes when you check the CEL.... GL. Definitely do some more testing!

 

The CEL is flashing because of the misfire, if the cat is in danger from all the raw gas going into the exhaust and burning in the cat, the CEL will flash to warn you of this danger. In your ariginal statement, you said you did a valve adj and then you said you have valve tapping noise. I am sure you know the valves have to be done cold and each valve has to be adjusted with the toe of the cam pointing away from the valve so after you set up the engine to #1 cylinder to TDC COMPRESSION STROKE, you then have to turn the crank to the next position do finish the job on the proper valves according to the manual.

You did all of this correct? If you dont feel comfortable with the method the book states then you can do each cylinder intake and exhaust valve at the same time by rotating each cylinder to the TDC COMPRESSION STROKE one at a time and adjust each cylinder one at a time.

Honda is quite popular for sounding like a sewing machine and a valve adjustment is quite touchy, can you measure the voltage from the MAP sensor going to the ECU, it should be just under one Volt DC, any higher than one volt or way under one volt is a bad valve adjustment. It sounds as though you may have other issues but PLEASE make sure the MAP is reading correctly and dont keep driving with a flashing CEL, its going to get expensive.

 

damn i have a 98 that is doing the same thing.

 

Thanks for the advice from all who answered. I managed to drive it to AutoZone, and the codes indicated random misfires cyl 1, and 4, and all cyls. I replaced the dist cap, rotor, plugs and plug wires and it fired right up. In the process I also cleaned the screen in the IAC valve. It was pretty crudded up, and probably didn't help matters. Thanks again.
Regards,
John

 

i put new plugs, rotor, wires, and cap from honda on mine and it is still running like crap.

 

i am in the process of doing a b20 swap in the gf's crv to cure this issue, her's has the same symptoms.

once the engine is in and running good will pull head off the old engine and check for the valve issues.

mike