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I just picked up a 99 crv. Throwing codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304, and P1399.
Valves click and sound kinda loud, but have not checked them yet. Water coming out of tail pipe. Recent timing belt change at Midas. Drives fine when under load, stalls out when coming to a stop. I have not seen it die above 10mph but cant be sure, drove it twice now. 5 speed, does not seem to stall while in gear, only when comming to a stop in neutral.
Any thoughts?
I saw this HT civic post where RonJ recommends checking timing for a similar issue.
Wonder if the timing might be off. Dude I bought it from mentioned problem started shortly after the belt was changed.
Jack up the drivers side, pull the wheel, remove the head cover, check timing belt. Check that one of the cams isn't off a tooth, then adjust the valves right away while you have the cover off.
How would I be sure the crank and cam shaft are timed correctly just by that alone? Don't you need to verify the position of the crankshaft to be sure your timing is correct?
Sorry, since you were working on your own car, I kind of assumed you had a general idea of what you were doing. I'd suggest you find a Haynes or Honda manual, and actually read it. You might just learn something useful.
When you rotate the crankshaft pulley to TDC mark (rotate counter-clockwise ONLY) ...
The Cam pulleys should look like this!
Here is what the marks on the Crankshaft Pulley look like.
No solution yet. Looks like the timing belt is too loose. I got about 1/2" deflection between the cam pulleys. And it is zero degrees here in MN! Probably explains why the problem gets worse as the car heats up, belt stretches. Looks pretty close but not quite. Pretty sure if I got the correct tension on the belt, the timing would be off. I was gonna just start with adjusting the tension on the belt then check timing again.
What should the correct deflection on the belt be for this engine (b20z)?
I think the problem is incorrect installation of the timing belt so tightening the tensioner won't really help. My guess is the belt was wrapped around the pulleys in the wrong order. Tightening the tension will simply make the timing worse. There is a tight and a slack side to the belt.
The strange part about the dohc is that once you have the timing belt set, you tighten the tensioner, rotate the crankshaft around a few times to set belt. Recheck timing.
When back at tdc, loosen the tensioner 1/2 a turn.
Then rotate the crankshaft (always counter clockwise) so the cam moves three teeth, then re-tighten tensioner to 40 lbs.
The belt should be "tight like a banjo" equally all around.
Gonna try this procedure see if it get the belt tension correct. If not, maybe a bad tensioner?
Update: The procedure resulted in a tight timing belt but when I cranked it a few times it became loose again. Guessing the tensioner or spring is bad. Got the crank pully off, which is always the hardest part. I have a nice technique with a jack stand and a couple breaker bars. It looks like the lower cover has been rubbing on the crank pully too. Just hit up rockauto for a Gates tb, tensioner, and water pump. Not sure why anyone would do a tb and not the tensioner! *facepalm*
Changed the timing belt, tensioner and waterpump. Runs good now. Parts seemed ok but replaced with oem to be safe. Improper install was the cause. Belt was too loose, rubbing on lower cover, and the washer on the crank was backwards. Tightening the belt was the difficult part. I can see why so many people have problems with the DOHC. Pinning the cams was a huge help, but I still had to twist the intake cam toward the tensioner a bit and turn the crankshaft slightly to get the tensioner to pull tight. Took me a few trys to get it right. There should be very little deflection between the cams when installed correctly, 1/4" at most.
Did you adjust, or at least check, the valve lash while you had it open?
I felt them, and they were not so tight the did not move, but I did not measure. Honestly, wanted to see if I resolved the stalling issue before poking around with other stuff. I dont have a feeler gauge yet. Any reccomendatons, and what exactly is the go no-go method, do ya know?
The actual spec states Intake Valves - 0.10mm +/- 0.02 (0.003-0.005") and Exhaust Valves - 0.18mm +/- 0.02 (0.006-0.008"). Set both to the higher end of the scale, the Intakes to 0.005" and the Exhausts to 0.008". The Go / No-Go is that 0.005" and 0.008" fit respectively with a bit of drag, and 0.006" and 0.009" don't fit respectively. If you don't know what it should feel like when it is "right", then get a set of calipers and set them to 0.008". Then run an 0.008" feeler Gage through the caliper. That will give you an idea of what it should "feel" like when correct.
What really boggles my mind is when people wish to work on their cars and don't understand the importance of correct engine base-line set-up. In the case of a CR-V's B20 engine, and aside from any mechanical or incorrect assembly issues which the mechanic may have induced or not yet discovered, the expectation of the ECU is that a few basic items are set accurately and correctly;
1) The valve lash is correctly adjusted (I.E. 0.005" and 0.008" respectively).
2) Base timing is exactly 16 Degrees under Dealer Service Manual set-up conditions (I.E. Service Check Connector is installed and engine is warmed to 180+ degrees when adjusting).
3) Base Idle is adjusted correctly (I.E. 430 RPM +/- 50 with the IAC and EVAP connectors unplugged before starting the engine).
The computer will never be able to effectively control the engine within its design parameters if these items are not correct.
02-07-2016, 04:12 PM
1999 CRV lx misfire, stalling engine P0300, P1399
It looks like the lower cover has been rubbing on the crank pully too. Just hit up rockauto for a Gates tb, tensioner, and water pump. Not sure why anyone would do a tb and not the tensioner! *facepalm*
