Write Up: SOHC Manual Transmission fluid change ( Pennzoil Synchromesh )
03-19-2005, 06:47 PM
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Write Up: SOHC Manual Transmission fluid change ( Pennzoil Synchromesh )
Hello, this is my first write up I've done so bare with me and please feel free to add constructive comments or suggestions. The car is an 89 CRX Si with a D16Z6 swap utilizing the Si's cable transmission. This should be similar to all SOHC mated transmissions along with possible most if not all B, F, and H series also. The fluid we chose to use was Penzoil Synchromesh that we got at Autozone for around $6.50 a quart. The car was overdue for the change so we decided to go with this fluid due to the popularity around the net and this board.
Tools Needed:
-17 MM wrench
-3/8" socket wrench (optional 1/2 breaker bar with 3/8" adaptor if its tough)
-lug nut wrench
-2 quarts preferred transmission fluid
-funnel
-jack and stands
-drain pan
-wheel chock
Time Needed:
20-30 minutes
Difficulty:
Easy
STEP 1:
Pull up the emergency brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent rolling. Loosen the lug nuts on the passenger front wheel and place the jack under the car in the front. Place jackstand on either sides of the car.
STEP 2:
Proceed to remove the passenger wheel. You can now see the side of the tranny and the drain bolt (pictured in the blue square).
STEP 3:
Place the drain pan under the drain plug. Find the fill plug diagonally up from the drain plug behind the axle and loosen it, using the 17MM wrench, to help drain faster (pictured below in the yellow square). Use the socket wrench (or breaker bar) to take off the drain plug, remove plug and drain until it stops flowing out.
STEP 4:
After completely draining replace the drain plug and tighten to spec. Completely remove the fill plug and using a long funnel or pump insert the end into the fill hole. I use a long funnel with a small hose attached to the end and fill it from the top (as pictured in green square).
STEP 5
From the top fill the funnel with fluid slowly until you see fluid coming out of the fill hole. Now remove the funnel, replace the fill bolt and tighten to spec. Remove the drain pan and continue to place the wheel back on the car and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stands and lower the car. Tighten lug nuts to spec.
Final Conclusion
The car was grinding a little in second when shifting above 6k RPM's in second. The car now shifts much crisper and doesn't grind in second any more. I can personally vouch for this fluid in my own vehicle (90 LS Integra) after I had a rebuild. So its definetly worth the 13 bucks even if its only to get some experience and your hands dirty.
Heres a reward for the long reading:
Modified by yebabee at 7:59 PM 3/19/2005
Tools Needed:
-17 MM wrench
-3/8" socket wrench (optional 1/2 breaker bar with 3/8" adaptor if its tough)
-lug nut wrench
-2 quarts preferred transmission fluid
-funnel
-jack and stands
-drain pan
-wheel chock
Time Needed:
20-30 minutes
Difficulty:
Easy
STEP 1:
Pull up the emergency brake and chock the rear wheels to prevent rolling. Loosen the lug nuts on the passenger front wheel and place the jack under the car in the front. Place jackstand on either sides of the car.
STEP 2:
Proceed to remove the passenger wheel. You can now see the side of the tranny and the drain bolt (pictured in the blue square).
STEP 3:
Place the drain pan under the drain plug. Find the fill plug diagonally up from the drain plug behind the axle and loosen it, using the 17MM wrench, to help drain faster (pictured below in the yellow square). Use the socket wrench (or breaker bar) to take off the drain plug, remove plug and drain until it stops flowing out.
STEP 4:
After completely draining replace the drain plug and tighten to spec. Completely remove the fill plug and using a long funnel or pump insert the end into the fill hole. I use a long funnel with a small hose attached to the end and fill it from the top (as pictured in green square).
STEP 5
From the top fill the funnel with fluid slowly until you see fluid coming out of the fill hole. Now remove the funnel, replace the fill bolt and tighten to spec. Remove the drain pan and continue to place the wheel back on the car and tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stands and lower the car. Tighten lug nuts to spec.
Final Conclusion
The car was grinding a little in second when shifting above 6k RPM's in second. The car now shifts much crisper and doesn't grind in second any more. I can personally vouch for this fluid in my own vehicle (90 LS Integra) after I had a rebuild. So its definetly worth the 13 bucks even if its only to get some experience and your hands dirty.
Heres a reward for the long reading:
Modified by yebabee at 7:59 PM 3/19/2005
03-20-2005, 08:06 AM
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Re: Write Up: SOHC Manual Transmission fluid change (crxgator)
the fill hole is more like a level check hole. it is 100x easier to take fill through the reverse switch, just take the fill plug out to check the level first.
03-20-2005, 08:39 AM
#6
Re: Write Up: SOHC Manual Transmission fluid change (krustindumm)
I think that the radiator hose makes it more difficult than its worth to remove the reverse light switch...but if you do it, be careful not to get the wires twisted up they can break at the stem.
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03-24-2005, 04:17 PM
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Re: (MtnCRX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MtnCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont mean to criticize, but arent you supposed to put in the fluid with the car level instead of one end jacked up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is a logical question. Due to the shape of the tranny it doesnt mean all that much, but obviously every little difference can mean something. i suggest also just bringing up the drivers side aswell.
this is a logical question. Due to the shape of the tranny it doesnt mean all that much, but obviously every little difference can mean something. i suggest also just bringing up the drivers side aswell.
03-30-2005, 11:06 AM
#17
Has anyone bought GM Synchro Mesh Friction Modified part # 12377916 recently? I have called almost all the GM dealers in my area and they say that it is the old formula and the non friction modified is the new stuff. They are also telling me its very hard to find (which it is) and that I should get the other one (cylindrical bottle - non friction modified) What do you guys think? Is it true that # 12377916 is the old stuff? Thanks
04-04-2005, 05:01 PM
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Honda-Tech Member
Re: (vegaskurt)
Nice, I think that removing the wheel was more work than needed, but I'm a slacker. I just changed the oil in my EG on Sunday, and used GM Synchromesh friction modified.
04-04-2005, 05:03 PM
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Re: (DJ_SaNdOz)
awesome glad to be of help. we just removed the wheel for picture quality and ease of access it's not necessary for this procedure.
04-04-2005, 05:03 PM
#22
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Re: (yebabee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yebabee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome glad to be of help. we just removed the wheel for picture quality it's not necessary for this procedure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that was my suspicion.
that was my suspicion.
04-06-2005, 06:44 AM
#24
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yea, my fill bolt is stripped like no tomm. but i do have have the fluid, and i cant get that reverse light bolt off thats on there good too, and now the only option left is the speedo cable that shouldnt be hard..but awesome write up esp. with very very descriptive pics. good job.
