Originally Posted by PBzAllan

Originally Posted by TrackSpeedRacing

heres a picture of what i'll be using. still need the fitting that goes on the fuel rail.

Originally Posted by Chase

(Disclaimer: If you mess up/blow up ur car doing this. Its not my fault!!!! Im just here to show you how its done.)

ALL from ANplumbing: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php? The sites easy to navigate so if you need anything else its easy to find.

Its very straight forward, just order all the fittings and install from top to bottom as i listed. You dont have to cut any stock hardlines or anything. This deletes all the stock banjo BS and just uses the stock tube nut.
Removal of the stock parts is easy too.
You just need your basic 8mm-19mm sockets and wrenches, screwdrivers, teflon tape, etc.
If you know how put the -AN hose ends on good then the whole removal/install should only take you an hour. For info on AN hose end install go here: http://www.anplumbing.com/SWIV....html

Heres a few general rules to go by as well: http://www.anplumbing.com/installation.html

No teflon tape needed. -AN fittings seal themselves via a internal 37degree(im pretty sure its 37) flare.

Basically u need to get a tubing cutter and a 37 degree flare tool...

Part # SUM-900311 37 degree flare tool kit - $31.95

and

Part # - SUM-900500 Mini tubing cutter - $5.95


Pull the stock fitting on the line back, as close as the stock flare as u can do it cut the line with the tubing cutter. Pull the stock fitting off and Slide the following on:

Part # - 581805 -5an Tube nut

TO

Part # - 581905 -5an Tube sleeve

Now flare the line on the 5/16ths setting and then pull the tube nut and sleeve up against the flare. Then thread in the:

Part # - 991907 -5an to -6an union

TO

Part # - 800106 - -6AN Swivel-Seal Straight Hose End - $5.50

TO

Part # - 403006 - 3ft of -6AN Stainless hose - $23.29 (you can just get one foot, but i got three so i could use it for the return line, and just use spectre AN-look hose clamps)

TO

another Part # - 800106 - -6AN Swivel-Seal Straight Hose End - $5.50

TO

This next step is open to w/e you want to use, i reccomend these for the price and filtering abilities. Buy some extra filter replacements and check it every 6 months or so.

FROM summitracing.com
Part # - RUS-650130 - -6AN Russell Competition Fuel Filter
Inline Mount, Blue, 40 Micron, -6 AN Male Inlet/ Outlet - $45.95

or from ANplumbing
Part # - 230106 - 35 Micron sintered bronze element, In-Line Fuel Filter. $26.16 (Even tho i gave you all the correct part number DONT get the 85 micron one. Thats a pre-filter or sumthin...)
Theres been alot of confusion about this Earls filter because of the misinformed people at some fitting stores(coughanplumbingcough) Maybe they just want u to buy their more expensive filter or sumthin. They say that its not for Fuel Injected cars and that your car will blow up or sum ****. ITS PERFECTLY FINE TO USE, i know MANY people that can vouch for it. SO even though the site says "Not recommended for EFI systems" it is still ok to use!!!! Misinformed peeps!

Also from ANplumbing:
Part # - FI-7507-AN - FI High PSI fuel filter. 40 micron. Black or Blue - $69.95


More options:

from jegs.com

Im prolly going to get this one soon, its like a lifetime cleanable element.

Billet Inline Fuel Housing uses a stainless steel screen elements that's made for a lifetime of cleaning. Super light housing uses removable end to service the cleanable element in seconds

Part # - 888-201406 - Pro Street Inline Fuel Filter -06 AN Ends - $89.99

The reason i got the russell is b/c someone knowledgeable told me it seems to stay clean longer than the Earls

(there is other options. I gave you all two nice and cost efficient filters, and one fairly expensive one, but its the best.. The inline fuel filter you use is up to you. Just get something 40 micron or less)

TO

Part # - 935106 - 90Deg. Tube Bent, -6AN Female to -6AN Female - $10.56

TO

This next step depends alll on the fuel rail you have. Im sure the stock thread pitch size is in the Haynes manual or sumthin. But if u dont have one the best thing to do is if its stock, pull the banjo stud thing out and measure the threads (if u have a tool for this) or just take it to lowes or an auto parts store and screw it in the the things they have there.(DONT quote me on this, but i think its 12mm x 1.25 Part # - 991945)
If its aftermarket....contact the maker of your fuel rail. Mine is a AEBS and its 14mmx1.5. So i bought a metric to an adapter for it.

Part # - 9919DFH - 14MM X 1.5 to -6AN Metric thread male to AN adapter male. - $7.53

OH also if you get that fitting above then dont forget a Crush washer or o ring. I used a oem honda crush washer that comes with the oil filters and a O ring i had around. The crush washer was against the fuel rail and then the o ring then the 14mmx1.5 to -6an fitting. It prolly didnt even need the o ring but i was bein safe

Then it goes to the fuel rail, then out the FPR.
For the FPR to return hard line i cut the extra -6 hose to fit, then wrapped then ends in electrical tape(important so it doesnt fray everywhere) then two of these:

Part # - SPE-2260 - Spectre Magna-Clamp Hose Clamps Red-Blue Anodized, 3/ 8 inch - $6.95 a pair

so $104.02 is the total with the Russell fuel filter and
$84.23 with the Earls filter.
and just add $6.95 with the return line hose clamps (gotta complete the look)

Finished Pics, runs good n such :

NEWPIC :





///newpic

__________________________________________________ _______________







Ok some of your stock tube fittings MAY look like this pic i took(from my RHD front clip)...If it does go to PAGE 4 to see what to do. Its the 6th or so post down by droppedcrxsi (pic taken by me)



Modified by EF8kid at 12:09 AM 5/30/2007 [IMG][/IMG]


Modified by EF8kid at 9:39 PM 11/14/2007

Originally Posted by gre8one7

maybe a dumb question but if i were to purchase a skunk2 fuel rail would the last fitting (14MM X 1.5 to -6AN Metric thread male to AN adapter male) still work or would it require a different fitting.

Originally Posted by Chase

(Disclaimer: If you mess up/blow up ur car doing this. Its not my fault!!!! Im just here to show you how its done.)

ALL from ANplumbing: http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php? The sites easy to navigate so if you need anything else its easy to find.

Its very straight forward, just order all the fittings and install from top to bottom as i listed. You dont have to cut any stock hardlines or anything. This deletes all the stock banjo BS and just uses the stock tube nut.
Removal of the stock parts is easy too.
You just need your basic 8mm-19mm sockets and wrenches, screwdrivers, teflon tape, etc.
If you know how put the -AN hose ends on good then the whole removal/install should only take you an hour. For info on AN hose end install go here: http://www.anplumbing.com/SWIV....html

Heres a few general rules to go by as well: http://www.anplumbing.com/installation.html

No teflon tape needed. -AN fittings seal themselves via a internal 37degree(im pretty sure its 37) flare.

Basically u need to get a tubing cutter and a 37 degree flare tool...

Part # SUM-900311 37 degree flare tool kit - $31.95

and

Part # - SUM-900500 Mini tubing cutter - $5.95


Pull the stock fitting on the line back, as close as the stock flare as u can do it cut the line with the tubing cutter. Pull the stock fitting off and Slide the following on:

Part # - 581805 -5an Tube nut

TO

Part # - 581905 -5an Tube sleeve

Now flare the line on the 5/16ths setting and then pull the tube nut and sleeve up against the flare. Then thread in the:

Part # - 991907 -5an to -6an union

TO

Part # - 800106 - -6AN Swivel-Seal Straight Hose End - $5.50

TO

Part # - 403006 - 3ft of -6AN Stainless hose - $23.29 (you can just get one foot, but i got three so i could use it for the return line, and just use spectre AN-look hose clamps)

TO

another Part # - 800106 - -6AN Swivel-Seal Straight Hose End - $5.50

TO

This next step is open to w/e you want to use, i reccomend these for the price and filtering abilities. Buy some extra filter replacements and check it every 6 months or so.

FROM summitracing.com
Part # - RUS-650130 - -6AN Russell Competition Fuel Filter
Inline Mount, Blue, 40 Micron, -6 AN Male Inlet/ Outlet - $45.95

or from ANplumbing
Part # - 230106 - 35 Micron sintered bronze element, In-Line Fuel Filter. $26.16 (Even tho i gave you all the correct part number DONT get the 85 micron one. Thats a pre-filter or sumthin...)
Theres been alot of confusion about this Earls filter because of the misinformed people at some fitting stores(coughanplumbingcough) Maybe they just want u to buy their more expensive filter or sumthin. They say that its not for Fuel Injected cars and that your car will blow up or sum ****. ITS PERFECTLY FINE TO USE, i know MANY people that can vouch for it. SO even though the site says "Not recommended for EFI systems" it is still ok to use!!!! Misinformed peeps!

Also from ANplumbing:
Part # - FI-7507-AN - FI High PSI fuel filter. 40 micron. Black or Blue - $69.95


More options:

from jegs.com

Im prolly going to get this one soon, its like a lifetime cleanable element.

Billet Inline Fuel Housing uses a stainless steel screen elements that's made for a lifetime of cleaning. Super light housing uses removable end to service the cleanable element in seconds

Part # - 888-201406 - Pro Street Inline Fuel Filter -06 AN Ends - $89.99

The reason i got the russell is b/c someone knowledgeable told me it seems to stay clean longer than the Earls

(there is other options. I gave you all two nice and cost efficient filters, and one fairly expensive one, but its the best.. The inline fuel filter you use is up to you. Just get something 40 micron or less)

TO

Part # - 935106 - 90Deg. Tube Bent, -6AN Female to -6AN Female - $10.56

TO

This next step depends alll on the fuel rail you have. Im sure the stock thread pitch size is in the Haynes manual or sumthin. But if u dont have one the best thing to do is if its stock, pull the banjo stud thing out and measure the threads (if u have a tool for this) or just take it to lowes or an auto parts store and screw it in the the things they have there.(DONT quote me on this, but i think its 12mm x 1.25 Part # - 991945)
If its aftermarket....contact the maker of your fuel rail. Mine is a AEBS and its 14mmx1.5. So i bought a metric to an adapter for it.

Part # - 9919DFH - 14MM X 1.5 to -6AN Metric thread male to AN adapter male. - $7.53

OH also if you get that fitting above then dont forget a Crush washer or o ring. I used a oem honda crush washer that comes with the oil filters and a O ring i had around. The crush washer was against the fuel rail and then the o ring then the 14mmx1.5 to -6an fitting. It prolly didnt even need the o ring but i was bein safe

Then it goes to the fuel rail, then out the FPR.
For the FPR to return hard line i cut the extra -6 hose to fit, then wrapped then ends in electrical tape(important so it doesnt fray everywhere) then two of these:

Part # - SPE-2260 - Spectre Magna-Clamp Hose Clamps Red-Blue Anodized, 3/ 8 inch - $6.95 a pair

so $104.02 is the total with the Russell fuel filter and
$84.23 with the Earls filter.
and just add $6.95 with the return line hose clamps (gotta complete the look)

Finished Pics, runs good n such :

NEWPIC :





///newpic

__________________________________________________ _______________







Ok some of your stock tube fittings MAY look like this pic i took(from my RHD front clip)...If it does go to PAGE 4 to see what to do. Its the 6th or so post down by droppedcrxsi (pic taken by me)



Modified by EF8kid at 12:09 AM 5/30/2007 [IMG][/IMG]


Modified by EF8kid at 9:39 PM 11/14/2007

Originally Posted by Stunna MIKE

I know this thread is old as Fvck.. And I'm years behind on this ****.. but I was looking on the AN site and noticed there isn't any -5 an fittings in black, only that blue and red thats being used? Any one know if they are available on other sites or something?