Mr. DeOro

No because it is OBD 1, it has to be OBD0.

Well at least we now know it isn't fuel related.

rexracerboy

Dang, Tim beat me to it. I was just going to say that no luck with the fuel pressure scenario. Steve, I think his name is, from Hmotors called me today while returning the gauge and he did give me the name of a local mechanic though who he has known for like 10 years and has done a lot of B16 swaps. So I may just have to call him.

It threw code 21, but VTEC doesn't make sense. haha It's already got VTEC problems and the damn thing ain't running yet.

Mr. DeOro

Lol... If you lived in Miami I would have told you to bring by my shop. Hope you figure it out. Let us know what they found. Good luck

EK22Tim

Wow third page haha yeah sorry bout that Dave. It's all good now. Ok so we've narrowed it down to dizzy or ecru I hope... Thanks for all your helpful replies guys. Keep em coming.

rexracerboy

yeah 3rd page on a B16a no start is just plain silly. What the heck did we do to this thing timmy? haha.

hatchet_honda

b16a1 whaa?

EF-Devotion

check the rotor inside the distributor. is it still good and intact. when mine rotor screw came off it will crank and crank like it wanted to start but no start, until i open the distributor and found it came loose from screw. maybe bad rotor. don't know.

rexracerboy

Is there any objective way to test the dizzy? ecu?

anothersickhatch

This is definitely a weird problem. The cel's can come on at any time. once the key is turned, it is possible to get a check engine light right away. I skipped the second page but read everything else. I would try using a different ecu and distributor. every time i have had a problem with starting it was the distributor. be careful with using different ecu's and distributors for too long though.

rexracerboy

The only problem with using a new dizzy is that if I get one from Autozone, it's like $150-$250. That's an expensive diagnostic test if it's not it. I don't have access to another OBD0 dizzy.

See, the ECU is blinking code "21", , the check engine light comes on and then goes off, When I turn the key to the ACC position, I hear all the normal clicking, etc. which would make me think that the ECU is working.





Edit: Hmotors is being very accommodating and willing to trade out the dizzy and ECU so I'm going to take advantage of that and see if it works.

fredrocs

you said the motor has good compression. what are the #'s? also did you guys open up the engine at all or is it the same way you got it from hmotors? did you do a cam swap or anything that would require you to pull the cam caps off? i would say it had tight valves but that would usually mean low or no compression...... weird stuff man!

Dual-500

My vote is that will fix it. I suspect a sensor in the dizzy. Had similar problem with D16A6 and a new dizzy fixed it. While waiting for parts it would be a good idea to do a point to point wiring check for sanity.

Good luck and do post results.

rexracerboy

New Dizzy and ECU coming from Hmotors. Steve is one heck of a good businessman and I am getting a very strong impression that he really cares about his customers.

I'm hoping that this fixes the problem. I'll know Friday evening or Saturday morning depending on when I can get back in the garage. Update to come! Hopefully a positive result.

DEPintheCurve

Glad to hear you like Hmotors, I am planning a b swap in the next summer and have contemplated hmotors if I do not build mine. Just a word to the wise though: be VERY CAREFUL with turning the dizzy around 180 and then trying to force it on. The dog gear and cam are keyed so it will not go on backwards... In theory you should not even be able to start the car when it is backwards because the wrong cylinder will be receving spark... You can break the dog gear off the dizzy trying to force it on there though... The shop I take my car to when I get too pissed off to fix stuff has seem many a person do so...

RHD_BB4T

If you have the map sensor on the throttle body, make sure you don't have the map sensor and tps plugs backwards. likewise with the iac/eacv and iat plugs.

rexracerboy

Thanks for all the help so far everyone. Yes, I did not try to force the Dizzy 180 out. I didn't want to break anything.

RE: MAP sensor. Everything seems to be hooked up correctly.

EK22Tim

hey guys ok update: We got the replacement ECM and replacement distributor- we swapped Dizzy first, no change- swapped ECM - no change.. We have a problem.. So we pulled out my compression tester and ran through the cylinders with an average of 120 per, give or take a few lbs. Yeah. Not good....

Dual-500

120 psi should at least start up. Hmmmm...... Is it throwing any codes with the new electronics?

EK22Tim

nope. no codes. Put some oil down into the cylinders and she started right up. Smoked a lot. Ran for 2 seconds and then died.


EDIT: It will start, run for 1-2 seconds on its own and then die. Once it dies, I have to wait for a bit before it will start up again.

EDIT part 2: It seems to be running for a bit longer each time. At least the tach is moving now. But I have to keep the accelerator to the floor otherwise it dies right quick.

Is this giving anyone ideas of what my issue might be?

rexracerboy

EDIT: I'm back on my computer (I was playing tim for a few hours, haha)....anyway, I also want to add that I cannot rev the motor. So, the problem is as follows:

I crank the engine, she starts. Runs VERY VERY rough as long as I floor the gas pedal. Runs for 3 seconds, sometimes 5. Sometimes more, sometimes less. Then, it stalls out and even though I hold the gas pedal to the floor, she does not rev. She just "blub, blub, blub"'s along for a bit and then dies. The tach shows under the 500 or 800 idle mark (I think it's 800?). It moves a little but not much.

rexracerboy

Pulled MAP sensor. Got it to run long enough to throw the MAP code.
Pulled TPS plug. Got it to run long enough to throw TPS code.

I'm guessing those things are running OK???

I pulled vacuum line on the fuel pressure reg. and it still started up and ran like crap for a few seconds before dying.

I don't know where to look next though. Anyone with any ideas?

fredrocs

what were the earlier readings when you said it had good compression? and you didn't answer my earlier q's about if the cams came off at all or if u guys adjusted valve lash.

1993-eg1

try re-timing it when my did cams on my b18b1 i had much the same problem and the timing looked right when u set it to tdc.

rexracerboy

Sorry about that. Originally, when I said that compression was good, this was simply verified from Hmotors. We did our own compression in the last post and the first time I did it, compression was 110 (was doing it by myself and couldn't see the gauge when cranking). Tim thought maybe I didn't crank it long enough. So, I redid it and got 130-135 in all cylinders. Did it a 3rd time and I think that's the 120s Tim was talking about. But one cylinder was 140 something I think and the rest of them were not as high.

They're all over the place IMO so it could be that we weren't letting it crank long enough. Though I was counting at least 5 seconds and it cranks good.

Did not check valve lash (not sure how to do that). Did not swap out cams. The motor is basically the same as it was when we got it from Hmotors. I changed the timing belt and alt belt. Had to take off the valve cover to do that. Otherwise, I didn't mess with anything.

And, like I said, we checked the timing and all the marks line up. I'm not sure what re-doing it will do.

But, perhaps I have done it incorrectly. At this point, I'm open to all ideas (well, most ideas).

Here are the pics from the job:

With old belt:

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1277039452

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1277039452

Lining up the timing marks:

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1277039567

New belt on:

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1277039567

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1277039567

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1277039567


...The only thing that's ever bothered me is that when the marks are lined up, the "UP" on both sprockets don't look to be pointing straight up. But, the marks line up.

In any case, is this a problem?

EK22Tim

Bump.. Anyone with some input?