SpeedOFsmell

is there SUPPOSED to be slack between the heim joints and the bolt that mounts them? I've had a blox traction bar and now another similar one and both have seemed to have heim joints with an opening so big that the mounting bolts allow it to slide back and forth when the car is loaded or unloaded (starting or stopping) causing an annoying click and an unwanted change in caster. do better brand bars do the same thing (eg full race, innovative, etc)???

Pro-SeriesFab

Are you talking about the major diameter/O.D. of the bolt being significantly smaller than the I.D. of the heim end?

zrickety

iTrader: (1)

No, not normal. Full Race does not have that slop.

SpeedOFsmell

Yes indeed


Zrick- thanks.

Pro-SeriesFab

Sounds like you are missing the spacers altogether or you don't have the right ones in.

They look like:

SpeedOFsmell

Yeah I don't have anything that looks like that. I bought this thing and it just had the rod end bolted to the control arm with a small cone spacer between. Do all double heim style bars use those spacers on the control arm side?

2000CTRSi

I have a client with the clunking noise when loaded or unloaded as well. Do the sell the spacer separately somewhere as pictured profab?

solorex

Looks like the only one that may last MIGHT be the Full Race. I ditched my traction bar in favour of the stock crossmember again because of clunking, less ground clearance, bolts loosening and overall just a crappy product (I had an ETD); plus it's illegal in SCCA classing anyways.

ESP.net

Some Co's use crappy heims to save a buck. The way to tell if Heim is bad if you grab the radius rod in the car. Bolts are tighten down. Go back and forward with the radius rod see if the middle EYE of the heim is stationary as the rest of the outside of the Heim moves. If there is a lot of play then may be bad.

Side to Side movement chattern low speeds or turning is the heim moving side to side... normal... when it gets loud flush the heim with lubricant such as WD this will flush out road debry and also lubricate and soften the noise.

Buy once! ESP FTW! Strongest on the market...

zrickety

iTrader: (1)

ESP has always looked good to me, I just bought my car with the Full Race bar. I can say that it WILL last, just check your pulley clearance if you have a swap.

ef2_civic

iTrader: (1)

Yes please check ur clearance with the car on the ground. I made the mistake of not doing so and damaged both my radius arm and ati race version pulley cost me $125 to ati and $40 to full race for new replacements

It's great to learn the hard way. Right? LoL

davegt27

What class is that?

I was about to buy one (ETD and full race are on the top of the list) but so many unanswered questions

I am making the move to Solo II EP and road race GTL so are you saying its illegal?


Davegt27

zrickety

iTrader: (1)

I think it bumps you into SMF.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I have had no such issue with my innovative traction bar.

solorex

Yes SMF, but also where I run in Canada CACC it's illegal in our SP, SPX classes. Don't buy the ETD, its garbage, I wasn't happy about how it's made.

Pro-SeriesFab

Strange . . . usually kits have that included or at least should.

Spacers are used because the width of the pocket in the torque box/mount is wider to accommodate standard bushings. When you switch to heim ends obviously its quite a bit narrower so you have to take up the space to prevent movement laterally. To a smaller degree, they are also used on some heims because the I.D. of the insert is a standard size and the bolt is metric giving some play or because a larger heim is required for strength.

We can make them easily . . . we have the technology

They are very common in the industry though, especially in the sprint car scene as they use heims on the end of pretty much every suspension and steering component. That picture is off speedway's site.

If you need an odd size or made out of an odd material just let me know. Personally, we try to steer clear of 6061 and go with 7075. The shear strength is much greater.

davegt27

Anyone know how much these things weigh?

I would hate to add any more weight to the noes of the CRX


Davegt27

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Less than the factory front cross member I would imagine. It's much smaller metal compared to what it is replacing. If it does weigh more, it's not much. I would not worry about making the car more nose heavy.

KevinEF7

I have the ETD bar and have had zero issues with it, Ive had it installed for 3 years aswell. Great ground clearance, rad clearance, quality heims, quality hardware. And there a canadian company!

I take my "radius rods" off every winter and give the heims a good flush with WD40 and then give them some synthetic grease. You can upgrade to grease able heims aswell, I will probably do that with my next bar purchase

welfarepc

You can make a sleeve to locate the bolt inside of the heim.

You can also use crush washers on either side of the heim which will "fill the gap" and do essentially the same thing.


Torque the **** out of the nut/bolt, too. That will help.


Alternatively, get a metric heim joint and then have no slop issues. Or use an SAE bolt in your SAE heim and have no issues.

davegt27

on these traction Bars with a stock motor do you eliminate the front transmission mount?

I see some that say B-series mount but none say stock mount


Davegt27

ef2_civic

iTrader: (1)

No as far as I know u have to use a after market mount or the one that comes in the bolt on mount kit

But things could of changed by now.

davegt27

Thanks for the response

I called K-Tuned a little while ago, they said most people eliminate the front mount he said it was just a crash mount


Never herd of a crash mount but ok

I also asked him about anti-dive/ant-squat geometry he said they did not have any measurements/figures

So I guess am on a different page as to the whole reasoning behind the traction bar


I guess I should at least try the thing before I knock all the tabs off and rebuild it

Davegt27