ComeOnKip

The install itself isn't too insanely difficult, just pain-stakingly slow.

• Remove driver's seat (trust me).
• Loosen up the dash from the main side, center and below bolts as well as remove the clamshell around the key tumbler/steering column.
• Disconnect some of the wiring around the steering column (enough that you will be able to drop the column without hitting / pulling on the wires).
• Drop the three clamps / brackets holding in the steering column and then proceed to drop the column. Use something (I used the plastic center console piece from my sedan) to hold the wheel/column from falling to the floor of the car.
• Remove the cotter pin connecting the brake pedal to the BMC, as well as the throttle cable from the gas pedal.
• Remove all the nuts holding the pedal assembly to the back of the firewall.
• Install the Suja bracket on the pedal assembly, as well as removed the clutch pedal and weld the two corresponding washers to the 'hook' where the clutch cable was previously connected. This is covered in the instructions.
• Using both pedal stop bolts ( one to stop it from going to far, one to stop it from going to far up ), check the operation of the master cylinder until you have about 85-95% of full travel. DO NOT LET THE FINAL ADJUSTMENT BOTTOM OUT THE M/C, this will most certainly do lots of premature damage to the m/c.
• Reinstall all of it in reverse order, MAKE SURE YOU PUT ALL THE CLAMPS BACK ON THE STEERING RACK AND THAT THE U JOINT IN THE COLUMN IS AT THE CORRECT OPERATING ANGLE!!! I can't stress that enough!!!!
• Hook up a -4 line, run the feed line from the resevoir and you're ready to go!

For any sedan guys planning on using the SUJA 1 hydro conversion kit soon, or anyone for that matter, here's a few pointers.

#1 - The -3 line they give try to sell you for the clutch pressure line is too small, clutch lines need to be -4.

#2 - In the sedan, it seems like the unit is a bit higher than some of the pictures I found of it installed on CRXs / hatches. This makes a slight issue of getting a fitting onto the 10x1.0mm.



This is a straight -4 to 10x1.0mm, p/n from earls is 9919BFB. This will not work as you can see, it hits a support rail for underneath the dash ( you might be able to cut, I didn't feel like getting into all of that.)



This is the way I ended up doing it. That is an Earls -4 to 10mm banjo adapter (p/n 997641) and a 10x1.0mm banjo bolt (p/n 997517, make sure you don't get the 977517, it is too long to thread into the CMC and seal it).

#3 - due to some more stamped steel channels under the dash, the bracket itself has to be taken down a little bit.



Nothing a closed coat grinder can't fix up.

Other than that, the kit works great. for no more half-assed brackets.

CRX Toad

Thanks for the write up, good work.

ComeOnKip

Thanks, I do my part so it's not all seat swap and CEL threads in here

Crx Jimmy

looks good ! I didnt go the hydro route because of all the half assed rigged up brackets that didnt seem to do a good job, this looks like it would work well. I just swapped hydro internals into a cable ys1 case. this seems like the solution that should have been around 10 years ago

boostedstd

whats the affect of using the stainless line bought from the company and using a -4 line?

ComeOnKip

Well, not to badmouth Suja, but no one plumbs a clutch with -3. I remember alot of kids who did install this kit in the previous thread (locked and probably gone by now) were complaining of a hard pedal w/ the suja supplied -3 line.

-3 is brake line (i.e. 3/16" line) where pressure is more important. -4 is the only thing that an (automotive) clutch should ever be plumbed with, because its not about pressure like brakes are, its about fluid volume.

I just got the s/s line cause I work at a race parts warehouse, so plumbing and everything is a daily operation

Furyof4

Good write up, thank you.

pb16b

very good write up kip.

however, i will have to disagree with the -3 line statements. not arguing that -3 is better than -4 or vice versa, just the statement where no one plumbs a clutch line with -3. this is not true. all our clutch lines are -3, we've sold over 100 clutch lines for k series swaps (not a single one with a problem). my personal k powered crx prototyped this conversion kit with a -3 clutch line and is fine. 99% of techna-fit produced clutch lines are -3 for just about every make and model vehicle out there (visit techna-fit.com for more info) and are DOT apporved. hybrid racing clutch lines (http://www.hybrid-racing.com/store/i...1-integra.html) are on over 50% of k swapped vehicles out there and are also -3 clutch lines.

once again, not here to argue or debate, this is just for clarification before bad information is further spread over the internet and beyond (which we all know will happen, someone will read this information and it will spread faster than swine flu)

ComeOnKip

I sell lots and lots and lots of -3 and -4 stuff, both premade and make-your-own stuff. I'm not saying a -3 won't work, but when i have a customer complaining about a heavy clutch pedal, it seems like 80% of the time its plumbed in -3 instead of -4.

You absolutely can plumb a clutch line in -3, just like you can plumb brakes in -4, but the small line on the clutch leads to a heavy pedal just like the big line on the brakes leads to a squishy one.

ComeOnKip

Should we put this in the FAQs? It also doubles for a pedal box removal faq I would guess.

aalb1

Nice... I always wondered what the few did for hydro conversions.

ComeOnKip

Yea, it was either this or the GHEY bracketry lots of companies use. Thats cool, and it worked for years, but I've driven them a few times and I absolutely hate them. If its a hyrdaulically activated clutch, no bracket is going to make a cable feel right when you push it.

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

Kip, I did this install. I think we actually talked in the original suja hydro adapter thread. I just wanted to note that the bracket sits just as high if not higher in my CRX. I actually had to whack the hell out of the metal above the MC to get the line to fit without adapters. So if anyone is going to install on a CRX you might want to consider that adapter he has pictured.

As far as the hard pedal due to the -3 line. I have a -3 I sourced myself and while it might not help the situation the biggest cause in my opinion is the crappy pedal ratio in the EF/EDs. All in all an awesome kit though. I love it. I would never go back to a cable adapter type setup.

Just a side note... Either the pedal has gotten a little softer over the past 6,000 miles with the setup or my leg has gotten stronger. Take your pick.

ComeOnKip

Thanks for the input buddy! What did you do about a resevoir for it, seeing as how the inlet is so high?

dlaub25

iTrader: (1)

Just keep the res high while you prime the mc then once all the lines are full you can mount it lower and vacuum power will take care of the rest.

I have an extra res up for grabs if anyone is interested. Same one in the pic, its a Wilwood.

ComeOnKip

I have a wilwood res too, its not going to work though because its 3/8" push on and the m/c is 1/4". I just ordered one from honda the other day... so back off with the dash this weekend

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

I hide my res




And mounted the master upside down



Works well, havent driven the car but the clutch is moving (twin disc) Even after their "fix" my bracket still swings 1/2" down

ComeOnKip

Awesome stuff. Whoever tagged this for 'pettle' needs spellcheck.

Boosted, what kind are you running on that? Did you get the Suja -3 kit or no? It looks like from the fuel lines you have under your dash that your probably making enough power/have a stiff enough clutch that you'd be able to notice the difference.

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

Im running -3an earls. Sorry i dont have a pic with the lines installed. I was a little frustrated in notching the bracket like you had to do, you figure it would of been fixed for 150 bucks, but oh well.

ComeOnKip

I really think a -4 might help with how much the brackets flexing. It's harder to get the fluid through the line, so it feeds back in to the cmc -> right into the pedal bracketry.

Just my .02 tho

Boosted Chemist

iTrader: (1)

good point, i may upgrade that next.