89HatchSI

Alright, Im finally getting towards ordering my engine and everything for my swap, im going to have it built and then swap it in

Here is what im thinking
B20B
B18 C5 head
ITR 4-1 header
K&N Cold air intake
fujitubo complete competition exhaust
Edelbrock high flow fuelpump
Edelbrock victor manifold
edelbrock injectors
GSR tranny
8# flywheel
Skunk cams


I would run a setup like this for a year or so, and then get it sleeved and turbo it. Does anyone see any problems with my setup?

CRX Toad

Just for added safety and my opinion I would put a blockguard in there to help the sleeves. Sounds like a good setup though.

I like the sleeving part later on too...smart man!

VegasEFHB

I see a problem, it's in your car and not mine!

Sounds good!

MONSTERZC

its gonna be a killer setup. why not go head and buy a sleeved block now instead of having to take it back out later just to get it sleeved anyways save up a couple of more months and get the block rods and pistons and you are good to go. im in no way saying that its not a good setup its a great setup and i wish the best of luck with your new project. keep us updated on how things go with your built

gnar kill

I would say save some money and just use a b16 head...

SiR Inspired ED7

iTrader: (1)

Killer Vtec

Mr_Si-R

i think you should get a b16 tranny, from what ive heard its better than a gs-r tranny, yeah and also why not a b16 head. getting the sleeved block now is a good idea also.

Mr_Si-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegasEFHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I see a problem, it's in your car and not mine!

Sounds good! </TD></TR></TABLE>
what problem? the b20b is what i think your talking about

VegasEFHB

It's called displacement envy. I want what this guy is putting in his ride.

BTW... did you even take into consideration what I had posted? Or did you just look at the first few words?

Mr_Si-R

my apologizes vegas...i thought that the problem lay in his setup, so you wernt going to tell him get what i mean? anyway sorry for the inconvinence. but on one note...the b20b is from an old prelude correct? or is it the cr-v motor?

VegasEFHB

No prob, man. CRV, I think, that is what my buddy put in his DA, we pulled it right from the donor CRV with a B20B.

Love the sig also

Mr_Si-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VegasEFHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No prob, man. CRV, I think, that is what my buddy put in his DA, we pulled it right from the donor CRV with a B20B.

Love the sig also </TD></TR></TABLE>
i was under the impression that the b20b's where from an old prelude si. i think it was a b20b5 or b20b7...i could be wrong though. im not claiming to know it all, ya know. thats for the comment about the sigs...i wish you could read the whole thing about the girl and the saturn one.

Suck my DX

well there is the b20a5 which is the jdm prelude motor and there is the b20a3 which is the usdm prelude motor...neither of these is anything like the crv b20...hope that helps

virginia_dude

You can buy a B16A2 head and have it fully ported for less than you will likely pay for that B18C head..which is really just a mildly ported B16A2 head. Food for thought.

VegasEFHB

D-series freak here, I love the SOHC (VERY easy to work on, cheap as hell to buy replacement parts for). I could be wrong, but I am almost certain the B20B is the CRV, but I am not sure. The one we pulled was from a CRV, I think a 99 USDM with 2wd. That was mated to a B16 tranny, unsure to the specific ratios, but it was an EF JDM SiR. Damn that DA moved quick! That is why I wouldn't mind even a stock B20 in my EF

Hell, anything regarding girls, and the crappiness of Saturns has to be funny!

virginia_dude

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well there is the b20a5 which is the jdm prelude motor and there is the b20a3 which is the usdm prelude motor...neither of these is anything like the crv b20...hope that helps</TD></TR></TABLE>

forget the B20A its crap...the B20B or the B20Z are what you want.

Mr_Si-R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suck my DX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well there is the b20a5 which is the jdm prelude motor and there is the b20a3 which is the usdm prelude motor...neither of these is anything like the crv b20...hope that helps</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah there it is...the A5 is what i was thinking about thanks for clearing that up for me!

89HatchSI

I am getting either B20B or B20Z, i have yet to decide. I will probably save the extra 500 bucks and get B over Z, its only like 20 horse power

Also - i figured, well, B18C is closer to the same size and everything as B16A. Eitherway, it will be Vtec. I am probably going to get it sleeved while its out of the car and everything, that way I dont have to mess with it at a later date.

Any1 have any idea what i should be running with this set up? I was guessing maybe mid 12s? After it is turbod, im looking to be into the 11's. If i am not running what i expect, i will simply save money and put it into the motor at later days
Should have one of the fastest cars in my city, Right now fastest is a 80 style mustang pushing just over 600 horses running low 11's, my goal is to beat him by Should be ordering the block here within a month or so i hope

VegasEFHB

If you are trying to toast a 600hp "crustang" running 11s, that is easy enough. Once the guy figures out that he needs to change his rear end and gear ratios, you will not have a chance. My Camaro runs 11.9 with 375hp only because I refuse to pay for the good gas and change my transmission to something more track friendly (she is a weekend street driver, not a track *****).

Just make sure you have the right ratios with the gearing and final drive in addition to reasonable torque/power from the block. People consistently ask, "What kind of times will I get with this block and tranny setup?" without considering power/weight ratio, transmission ratios, final drive, and parasitic power loss due to retarded and unneccesary accessories (Power Steering, AC, ect...). The B20 is a killer platform for track duties in a superlight EF body (hatch or CRX, choose your poison), but if you want to Vtec that bitch, run the B16A head instead of the B18, as cost will mean alot at this point (assuming you are going for a fully built head with some nice aftermarket cams, gears, valves, springs, etc...). Other than that, I agree with your N/A setup good times, my friend.

If you are going to sleeve this at the start though, and put in some good rods, pistons and crank, lower your compression a tad and try a JR supercharger. This will give you a somewhat reasonable street capability as well as multiple personality disorder of the powerplant. Vtec with a B20 SC? You will KILL anything out there other than dedicated track vehicles and still have a reasonable car to drive home. The turbo guys will argue this advice (and nobody really is wrong, just personal preference), but I have always been a more supercharged than turboed kind of guy .

There is a guy here in LV with a gold EG running a B20B (head and block) with a supercharger, and nobody but the big boys (Z06, NSX Type S,Cobra R) can touch him. Check a back issue of HondaTuning, I am unsure of the month (april or may 05, I think), but he is in there. He won't tell anybody much, but he will admit that is is a B20 head and block as well as a supercharger. Just something to ponder, but again I love where you are going with it and keep us all posted with updates on install and performance once you get it running!

89HatchSI

Hey vegas - talk to me on aim, interested in talking to you more

Reamo04 on aim

Hardest part i discovered tonight is convincing my parents into letting me do this

My dad thinks im crazy and is like "why dont u get a chevelle or soemthing and put the money into that?"
My simple answer to him was "because i can put my money into a 4cyl and probably beat most chevelles, and i dont have 20 grand for a chevelle around here"

VegasEFHB

Sorry, bro, I only talk H-T at work, no AOL here.

I do enjoy my Chevy (1979 Camaro Z28, with a few mods), but gas kills me every weekend. I only drive her on the weekends too, and at $3 per gallon, they can go F*** themselves. My Honda is a keeper not only for the gas, but because of the potential. It is so much less expensive to modify and restore, if that is what you want to do.

89HatchSI

i just want to have a fast car taht i can drive on the street.
I figure...by time im done with this (2 years max) gas prices will be so high i couldnt afford a chevelle or anything anyways
Just trying to figure out the best way to go
I want to eventually get down to mid 11's either way i go, may just keep it all motor and say screw it
figure i'll probably be spending around 7k or so overall on my project, and im going to do it all right at the beginning.
Main competition i'll have around here is theres a guy with b18c w/ Nos and a few ups in a CX hatch, and then another guy with type r in a coupe EX. My goal is to have the fastest import around thats still drivable on the street yet can be a big competitor on the track too

So what i am thinking is everything i posted before, but getting it all switched to low compression and running a T66 turbo at about 12lbs of boost on track, prolly 5-6 on the street.
I'll go ahead and get pistons and rods and everything done too while the block is off the car, probably get a port/polish job and maybe get it angled n crap too while i'm at it. Once again, My goal is mid/low 11s or high 10s, no cost will be spared

VegasEFHB

Heh, no cost, I wish I could say that about my ride. Every time a problem comes up, I barely have enough cash to fix that problem and do an oil change.

Oh well, that might be why I am bucking for a raise at work. More money means more expense and the same monetary situation I am already in. If you truly mean no expense will be spared, do it all in one shot. Get the Turbo setup, body work, engine work all done in one fell swoop. There is nothing like driving in with a smoking hoopdy and driving out with a race car.

I did that with my Camaro when I was in the Navy, and the difference was night and day. They pulled the tired LT1 and Auto 4spd and put in a 383 stroker with a new mid 80's 5spd transmission, new rear end, new front and rear suspensions and a full big brake conversion. This was about 6 years ago, so she has been completed and in good running order for a real long time. The only thing I have done to her recently (within the last 3 years, actually) is a newer clutch and flywheel combo and a new radio/cd in the dash. It feels good to be done with it so I have more time to spend playing around messing with the "Fast and the Furious" crowd .

BiG Chris

your lucky your not in cali because that would never smog here...

for the fuel pump i might go with walbro and the intake manifold would that be victor x?

yea sleeve it now and leave out the block gaurd

89HatchSI

Im in kansas, theres no emissions laws here, hehe

I have 2 months before i start ordering everything, Im going over everything, making sure its going to be what i want, been talking to people with similar set ups and seeing what they have had problems with. Going to have this all planned before i start to help me save headaches, time, and a little money