thrasherx

A few months ago, i bought a 91 crx dx with some faded paint. One of my friends and I got some automotive paint in a shake can, some primer, sand paper, tape, and gloss coat and with a warm saturday re painted the driver's side, roof, and part of the front bumper. The paint looks alot better now, but as suspected, the dupont gloss coat isn't at all glossy, but rather dull looking. I read on ht that you can fix dull paint or orange peel with some 3m compound polish and a buffer, but they warn not to buff below the gloss coat. My question is, how can I add some shine to the dull spots and if possible, do it without having to use a spray gun. Can I polish the wholec ar with the 3m compound and buffer to even it out? Let me know.

hotrodlincoln

your first mistake was to use rattle can nothing good can come from using a cheap enamle get a good quality urithane and do it right.

thrasherx

thanks for the advice, but i'm kind of short on $. i realize that i could do a decent job for $500. i'm a college student, so.... maybe this summer. anyway, for the time being would this work?

hotrodlincoln

it wont shine like you want it to and its to thin to buff it might get worse if you try

welfarepc

Dont listen to this other guy... you still have a chance! You can add more clear coat if you need to. I would say do one light layer, let dry 1 hr, another light layer, 1 hr, then a heavy coat with no drips, let dry 4 hrs, then decide if u want to do more. after the first two light coats u should be ok. (MAKE SURE when you paint the clear coat that your car, the air, and the rattle can are all 20c or 70deg f, and the humidity should be less than 50%, ideally. If you dont paint at the correct temps, your clear coat will dry hazy.) Once its done relax, because you need to wait atleast 2 weeks before the last step. The last step is to use some Medium Duty Rubbing Compound. Dont get heavy duty, it will dull the shine. Apply it by the mfc's instructions... you can use a cotton towel or old t-shirt, or better yet a car wax rag. It will take a lot of hand buffing, but after a bit u will start to see the shine. buff with a dry clean rag before the compound drys and enjoy. i did this today on my car, take a peek.



I just did this one rear pannel because of a small rust spot and a hole i made from a jack stand... heheheh
Dan

thrasherx

did you use a rattle can? that looks good... thanks for the advice!

welfarepc

yeah man, 3x rattle cans ($30 total). A can of primer, can of actual paint, and a can of clear coat. (All Dupli-Color)... let me post up a few more pics too.

Cut outs and body work (you shouldnt have to do this!)


heres with primer


heres with base coat, and clear coat.


and finally here after the medium rubbing compound...


Hey, its not perfect, but its cheap, it works and it looks pretty decent. You can tell its not perfect when you go up real close, and look. For example, you can see the clear is just a bit darker near the center/top of the panel. Either way, i fixed a rust spot that was growing, and i fixed a hole i made with a jack for about $50 total. Better than $400 at an autobody shop. Good luck again.
Dan

EL Vap133

Wow, that actually looks good.

TeamRedline89Hatch

Is that part of a tree holding up your car?
Looks good though, clean up your moulding and it would look even better

welfarepc

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamRedline89Hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that part of a tree holding up your car?
Looks good though, clean up your moulding and it would look even better </TD></TR></TABLE>


haha yeah it is part of a tree... oddly enough when i was done, i threw it against a wall, and it busted into like 10 pieces! haha i got lucky there. as for the trim, 2 words... im lazy

thanks for the compliments,
Dan

PS. ive tried to clean the molding, but i think its stained that colour... anyone have any ideas? I saw some stuff that claimed to return its black colour, but am skeptical. anyone got any tips to clean it/blacken it?

TeamRedline89Hatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by welfarepc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PS. ive tried to clean the molding, but i think its stained that colour... anyone have any ideas? I saw some stuff that claimed to return its black colour, but am skeptical. anyone got any tips to clean it/blacken it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, well...I don't know if it's still available. My grandpa used to be sponsered by Granitize (sp?) and they have some bitchin' plastic/rubber cleaner/restorer. My moldings used to look like yours, all white and faded from waxing my car and getting wax on them. This is the only pic i can find at the moment, I will most likely go over the moldings again tomorrow and I'll snap some more pics then.

fabe85

Iam about to do my civic's lip, grille, sideskirts and rear lip tommorow.
It is a 1996 vouge silver metalic civic.
I got a can of rustolem- bright metalic finishes,
which susposely matches that year civic pretty good.

I've spray a lil corner. the color matches about 90%. The only thing is it's dull as hell compared to my car paint. Whats the thickess brand spray can clear coat, do they have?
and would you wetsand between coats or after like the 4 coat.

welfarepc

i was too afraid to wet-sand the clear, because it is so thin. (coming from a rattle can.) i just did the medium rubbing compound and it came out pretty good. i would suggest calling around town to see if anyone local fills custom rattle cans. then have them fill it with some real good clear coat with the correct chemicals to dry proper. check out this website too for what clear to use, they have great forums.

http://www.autobody101.com

Dan

welfarepc

just an update, i use a buffer at 2500 rpm and use 3m rubbing compound then 3m perfectit-iii and look how nice it turned out. not bad for a rattle can!





made it through winter with no bubbles!