Trent89

setup as followed:
obd2 b20z engine with b16 cable trans w/ lsd
obd1 dizzy
obd1 complete intake manifold (injectors, throttle body, fitv, iacv)
obd2 alternator
obd1 p75 manual ecu

i converted to obd1 using an ebay $40 ecu jumper and oem obd0 mpfi engine harness. all my connections are soldered so i believe that they are solid.

my grounds are secure and metal to metal(i scraped off the paint beneath). i have a ground coming off the valve cover to the side of the driver side shock tower, ground from transmission clutch cable bracket to passenger side frame rail, ground from negative battery terminal to passenger head light support. stock grounds off headlight harnesses are secure as well

the engine starts right up but it idles really bad though-constant up and down and to the point it dies really quickly. if i feather the throttle, it will stay running but when i try to rev it up much higher, it keeps cutting out and wont rev past a certain rpm.

i do not know what rpm this is happening at because my tach doesnt work on instrument cluster. my temp gauge works and i can get the engine to warm up. check engine light will light up and not throwing any codes, brake light indicator lights up, and seat belt indicator lights up but gas gauge doesnt work, clock doesnt work, climate control does light up, headlights work , turn signals work



could wiring up my o2 sensor incorrectly have an affect on these issues? im using a generic 4 wire o2 sensor and i cant guarantee that its wired correctly. its the type of o2 sensor with black, white, and gray wires instead of the oem colors which caused me confusion


can you tell me how o2 should be wired by looking at my jumper?

i removed iacv and fitv to be cleaned today

i pulled out my gauge cluster to check the grounds on the back and they are secure. also, i removed the brown bulb plugs and none of them had bulbs in them. what do they light up?

does the yellow wire from my jumper need to always be grounded, or just when i want check cel codes? when the engine is running, my cel does not come on, but i also dont have the yellow wire constantly grounded


diagram that came with my jumper

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Unplug your O2, It's generally a pain in the butt trying to figure out if its your oxygen sensor or not.

PERSONALLY, based on my swap I did, it sounds like your map sensor may be hooked up wrong. I had the wrong vacuum hose going to my map sensor and it did this. But the OBD1 map is on the Throttle body, right? So maybe it's gone bad. Or if you are using the firewall map, it could be as simple as the hose going to the wrong spot.

Also, as far as the bad idle goes. My car also had this problem and it was caused by my Idle air control valve not being hooked up. The wires were just loose in my case and it wasn't idling at low temps right. This doesn't sound like your case, but it could be.

Run a compression test because a cylinder not firing will cause these symptoms too. I had that issue. If you can get someone to help, while the car is idling, try unplugging each spark plug wire individually from the distributor. If, when one cylinder is unplugged, the idle drops, you know it is good. If the cylinder is unplugged and the idle doesn't change, you have found your problem. A bad cylinder. Which could be a number of things. Spark, fuel, compression and air. Took me about a month to get mine figured out.

Good luck, try the compression test for sure. The not revving past a point sounds like limp mode, but I'm not saying anything for certain.

Trent89

i think i just solved the "engine running horrible" problem. the 3 wires going into the tps sensor were backing out of the plug. i pushed them back in fully and its idling much much better. i never did give it more gas though. i just let it idle while i was adjusting it. i adjusted the idle screw on the top side of the throttle body and adjusted the throttle body butterfly and its idling like it should, smooth and no surging.

im still having the electrical issues with my gauge cluster though. my tach is not working and another weird thing is when i turn my headlights on, the brake indicator on the cluser turns off

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

That sounds like some bad grounding somewhere. Did you do a cluster swap?

Trent89

no, i have not done a cluster swap

Trent89

I do not think My check engine light does not work at all. My light flashes on the gauge cluster when I start the car, but it will not throw any codes after that. I know this because I completely removed the o2 sensor from the car just to see if it would throw a code and it did not.

Should it throw cel immediately after I start the car if there no o2 sensor?

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Uhhh uhh... well... My JDM PW0 doesn't throw a cel for the O2 at all. Try unhooking the Intake manifold temp sensor or something like that. Something that isn't really important to the car as far as an idle goes, and see if it will throw a code when you start it up.

I also have this issue where my cluster won't light up the CEL after I turn it off. Example, my car throws a CEL 23 (before I fixed it). The ECU would blink (OBD0) showing a code 23. The CEL would show up. I would turn the car off and then the next day turn it on and the dash would display NO CEL. But the ECU would still blink showing a 23.

It's hard to say. Try a different sensor, maybe the knock if you have one. I'm not a B20Z guy or very into the OBD1 set ups.

The cluster swap would have been an easy way to tell what is wrong.
I think there may be a wiring issue behind the cluster. Try and take it off (On a weekend or sometime you have spare time) and go through the wires. Maybe one of the wrappings has come undone and a wire is hitting another one. Really a pain when it comes to electrical gremlins.