Derrick Berry

I have a 91 civic lx with a d15b2. Automatic. Engine blew so i got another from a junkyard. Verry hard to find btw.

never replaced a whole engine before so anyone have any helpfull vids n links?

i know to tape and mark all hoses and wires, i have a repair manual. What other knowledge do i nedd?

Doosenberry

Here's some general advice that may or may not be of use.

I haven't yet replaced an engine on one of these cars yet, however, I highly recommend taking lots of pictures. Use a smartphone. Use a digital camera. Use whatever. It comes in very handy! I do a lot of work on my truck (1977 Ford F-100) and its been very valuable to just be able to pull out your phone and flip back to a pic of how something was wired and then go along with what you were doing. I've also done things by making my own diagrams with paper and pen. I replaced a harness on my truck and had to pull wires, about 20 or so, from a connector and literally drew the connector on a piece of paper and labeled each hole on the connector on my paper with the color of wire that went to it.

Just in general, in my experience, if something isn't coming out or moving as easy as you think it should don't immediately move on to hammering and prying on things. You might end up breaking a hard to find part! I've made the mistake before of thinking "Oh its no biggy, I'll just get a replacement." only to find out the item isn't made anymore.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Everyone has their own way of doing things, but I prefer to pull the engine and transmission together, then separate on the ground, as I find this easier than trying to reconnect the two in the cramped engine compartment. Disconnect everything, drain fluids, pull the radiator, and take the intake and exhaust manifolds off for more room. Take the front and rear mounts out first, then hook up the hoist and a load leveler. Put slight tension on the hoist, then remove the driver's side and transmission mounts. I find it best to have the load leveler cheated all the way to the passenger's side when first lifting, then cranking it all the way to the driver's side to drop the transmission down low and raise the front (pulleys) of the engine up high. This allows the drive train to clear everything. Go slow, make sure everything is disconnected, be careful to not let the engine/tranny swing and smash little plastic sensors or your heater core tubes, etc. It is a good time to replace some other wear items on the engine while you have it out, especially if you are putting a junkyard engine in. If not already new, I recommend going ahead and replacing all coolant lines, vacuum lines, PCV hoses and valve, water pipe o-rings, rear main seal, crank seal, distributor seal, axle seals (if leaking), oil pan gasket (if leaking), timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump, spark plugs, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, and anything else that is easily accessible with the engine out. Re-installation is the reverse of removal. Take your time and double check that you have everything hooked up correctly and you didn't forget to plug anything in. Don't forget to re-fill the transmission and engine with oil and the radiator with coolant.

scelestus

+1 to all of the above. Buy some degreaser and PB blaster. You'll need them. Sorry if it's too obvious, but the engine harness should come out with the engine, especially if you take DaX's advice and pull it with the gearbox. Much easier to remove and reconnect outside the car.

In case you have issues with anything on your yard engine - the D15B7 from 92-95 Civics is very nearly the same block and head, just several years newer, and therefore MUCH easier to find. If you have to scavenge more parts for the swap, check those out.

Derrick Berry

Thanks guys. I appreciate it. Can anyone link helpfull vids? I cant find any good ones.

Derrick Berry

Another question. Thinking of cracking open the new block and inspecting/cleaning it. I looked up a gasket kit and they range from $30-$250. What brands are good? Oem, aftermarket?

WestyNaut92

I was a total car repair novice about a year ago and I’ve done an engine swap on my EF. Of course mine was D15b1 for D15B1, but it was super simple. My friends and I didn’t have an engine lift so we just lowered the engine onto a block of wood and lifted the shell around it. +1000 for separating the tranny on the ground.

Also don’t mix up your wires! (Or let your idiot buddies mix them up). I accidentally had my coolant temp sensor wired to my back up lights for about a week. :D

DaX

iTrader: (1)

I would highly recommend that if you disassemble the engine and replace the gasket set, you choose one with a Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gasket, and not a composite graphite one. Same for the exhaust manifold gasket.