platinum_rich

Okay I have searched and tried pretty much everything. Here's whats going on with the car. Car was sitting for 4 months, but started fine then. When I tried to start it had a dead battery so I replaced that. But now it just cranks but won't turn over. I thought it was the 'main relay' but I replace that and still nothing. I pulled the wires and plugs and the plugs were filled with oil due to bad valve cover gasket and rings. So I replaced the valve cover gasket and rings around the spark plugs, bought new plugs just in case and new wires. Again, nothing. No check engine light or nothing.

Please help!!! And thanks in advance for your input.

platinum_rich

Bump...anyone please?

sanimalp

Air, fuel, compression and spark are what you need. Lets assume for the moment that you are getting air. So what is your fuel pressure, and are you getting spark.

Are you hearing the fuel pump prime? Does the car sound like it is going to catch and start, or is it straight nothing?

platinum_rich

Yeah, I don't hear the fuel pump prime. That's why I thought it was the main relay buy when I replaced that with a new one still doesn't start. Again it cranks but does not start. You could hear the main relay click but I don't hear the fuel pump prime. Are there any other fuses or relays I need to look at? I don't want to buy a fuel pump and find out thats not the problem.

platinum_rich

Bump for suggestions

EFjoe91

I am trying to get my car goinh as well. I am on the same page. My cars relay Clicks as well and makes a clicking noise. Not sure what that is. Car dont run. Mechanic has had it for 2 weeks and didnt do jack-

Hopefully some one has some good imput. Im thinking my ECU is fried? thats what i have been told. And my fuel pump only gets 6V.

platinum_rich

Okay, so I was playing with the car today again and tested fuel pressure the ghetto way (loosen gas line on fuel filter and turn key to on position to see if fuel sprays out) and nothing. So I have no fuel going to the engine. I took off the air box and poored some gas in the throttle body and it started! At least a little while till the gas I poured in was gone.

So now I know it could start, but then again, now I need to know why I have no fuel pressure. Any ideas now?

dirtragz

fuel pump bad?

sanimalp

There is a plug under the center of your back seat that sends power to the fuel pump.. I would recommend removing the rear seat and testing that the wiring is getting power, according to the circuit diagram.

If i remember right, i believe the black with yellow stripe wire is the wire that should have 12v when your key is in the on position. you should double check that black/yellow is right, but at least one of those 4ish wires is for fuel pump power.

if you don't have power through that wire, then the problem is electrical, which is sorta nice because you won't have to drop the fuel tank.

If you have power, then you will need to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump.. check out the FAQ for info on how to do that.

platinum_rich

Thanks for the reply I will do that.

VandA_hondalovers

my 92 civic had the same issue about 6 months ago i ended up replacing the fuel pump, if you turn the power to the car on u will hear a zzzzzzzzz from the fuel pump under your back seat if you dont hear this zzzzzzzz and you have already ruled out the main relay then it sucks but the fuel pump is most likely out and needs to be replaced which isent that bad ull need a 10mm and if i remember a small flathead screw driver came in handy and make sure the car is well ventilated cuz of the fumes are horrible and its self explanitory from there.....

sanimalp

on an EG, that may be the case.. but an EF takes a whole lot more than that..

platinum_rich

Okay, quick help on testing the voltage on the plug that goes to the pump. There are 4 wires to the plug. I'm assuming the thicker of the wire is to the actual pump. Do I put the positive probe to that wire and touch piece of metal on the car or what? I know, stupid question but I just want to do it right. Also, can someone identify exact wire to test. Thanks in advance

sanimalp

Alright, i double checked the wiring to make 100% sure what i thought was correct, and it is. follow these steps to test it properly:

first, set your volt meter to DC volts: 20 or 200 should be fine.

then, separate the male and female ends of the plug.

using the plug end and wiring that goes back toward the front of your car, touch the red lead on your volt meter to the black/yellow wire in the plug and the black lead of your volt meter to the black wire in the plug.

With the key in the on position, you should be seeing 12+ volts on the meter. if you are not, then your wiring is messed up, and i would suspect the main relay is the culprit. If you see 12 volts, then your fuel pump is very likely bad.

If you get voltage, then turn the key back to off, reconnect the plugs, and then turn the key back to on again. If you hear the pump running, well, then test your fuel pressure. If you don't hear it running or if it sounds like it is stumbling or grinding, then you need to change it.


good luck..

platinum_rich

Bump to top until I test wires

platinum_rich

Okay tested the wires. There are 4 wires on the plug to the fuel pump. Thicker one is Yellow with white strip with silver dots, next is black with silver dots, next to that is black with white strip and last wire to right is yellow with black strip. So testing the first wire (Yellow with white strip, silver dots) I have power. Then the forth wire, yellow with black strip, that has power. So what you think now? I am assuming the two inner wires are grounds (one for fuel gauge and one for pump) So again I have power to both the outer wires.

What you think now? I dont want to drop the tank and buy a pump if I don't have to.

Mike banX

make sure your checking for power at the plug in the back seat while it is actually plugged in. because mine will get power when its unplugged, and when i plug it in and check the wire going to the pump the power cuts out. sounds like we are having same prob..
I changed my fuel pump and main relay checked all fuses and still not getting power to the pump, the sending unit (yellow with white strip, does get power, but the yellow with black strip(pump wire) is not getting power for some damn reason. im stumped.
Im thinking about just hooking up the fuel pump straight to a switch or to ignition.. cause i connected the pump straight to the battery last night and the fuel pump kicks right on.

shoemaker617

Did you check for any blink codes on the ecu?

platinum_rich

Yup checked blink codes and nothing.

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

Pl rich, you checked for power and its there, i would check the remaining two wires to see if they are providing a good ground(I use metal chasis for 1 lead and the other to the pin) my vote= fuel pump.Mike Banx just recently on my eg I was perplexed why I had 12v for a couple of seconds and then nothing when I was testing the plug going to the fuel unit, come to find out that when the ignition is "on"(dash lights up)the relay will provide 12v to the fuel pump for a few seconds then cut-out(=whirl of fuel pump) but then the relay provides the 12 volts again when cranking. I had a fuel pump that would work sometimes I replaced it and issues gone

Mike banX

yea my fuel pump doesnt prime at all, and doesnt get power at all. ive tried alot.. the only way i got power to the pump was by wiring it straight to the battery.. theres gotta be a short or open circuit or whatever in the fuel pump wiring going all the way back to the relay/ and ecu thing is the ecu has power but the main relay doesnt... i might just run a switch for the pump and say **** the main relay.. although im not getting spark either.. im getting sick of trial and error.. rather jus hand over a couple hundred bucks and let someone else deal with it.

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

On the eg the following were my suspects according to schematics:underhood fuse(ok)that provided power from batt to main relay,main relay(tried a good one=same result)btw there is a way to bypass it, next it goes to "ignition switch"=big hassle and then fuel pump. Wiring could be a culprit but the ignition switch would also be one of my suspects. If you need ef schematics I have the helms and can email what I have. Its frustrating as heck and I have given up on a car and sent it to the dealership before oh and there are two relays in the main relay so have you tried a different relay or tested the relay according to helms?

CRXSIPower

Yellow/w black stripe is the power to pump on an ef, remove the plug connecting the pump to the harness, test for 12v+ to the car side of plug not pump side, if you have power there, then find the extra 12v hot lead with ignition in the off position thats on the fuse panel under the dash and install a jumper wire to the yellow/w black stripe on the pump side of the two plugs then another jumper to a known good ground, if the pump doesnt turn on you need to drop tank and remove the pump and test resistance from the pump to the plug to make sure there's no short there, if thats good you got your problem and replace the pump. jumper wire is just to test to see if pump itself is working this is not a long term fix if it does turn on, it will work but its not safe, in my opinion.

Mike banX

fonkernuckle: maybe in my case the ignition is causing some kind of short? would it be ok to just wire the pump directly to the battery with a switch, or wire it to the accesory so when i turn the key it will kick on and possibly put a cut off switch in?

hatchet_honda

i once watched some mexicans at a shop struggle to remove the tank from an eg hatch. i asked what the prob was and they replied fuel pump no good. haha if they only knew of the rear seat access