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Sorry to hear about you losing your friend. Thats too bad man. But definitely take care of his car, maybe like a tribute build. Got any pics? Excited to see it, I want to paint mine white eventually
Sorry to hear about you losing your friend. Thats too bad man. But definitely take care of his car, maybe like a tribute build. Got any pics? Excited to see it, I want to paint mine white eventually
I appreciate it bro. That's exactly what I planned on doing with it. I'm going to have a caption in the back window that says "In Memory of Andrew Milkovich (PICO)". I don't even call it my car. I actually own it now and I still refer
to it as his car. Told my lady today "Regardless of the work we do to it, it's AJ's car". I was already wanting to get an old school Hatch for many years anyways.. just sad that it took my best friend committing suicide for me to actually
get one but that makes the end goal 100 million times more important and makes me 100% more dedicated to actually getting the goals I have set for it accomplished.
It's currently in a friends garage, will post pictures soon! I'll definitely start a thread eventually to show progress on it as well. So far, I'm considering a few options as far as swaps and having a tough time making up my mind on which
I should go with. I'm looking at the B16A3 that came in the Del Sols. Mind you I live in California so my options are quite limited compared to other States in the US. California enjoys stripping the fun out of everything! No guns, so
many regulations on cars, super high cost of living... bleh! My friend had the same motor in his Del Sol back in the early 2000s (B16A3) and that thing was a blast! Didn't even have a turbo and it still ran mid 14's which is pretty solid.
I would like to get the EF into the 13s. I don't care for much faster than that (not trying to get myself killed..) but I def want it to be a 13 second car. I'm also looking at the LS/VTEC swap.. any ideas or advice?
I don't know how much advice I can give you as of now, but maybe some insight. For me, I know in 5+ years there probably won't be a dseries motor in my bay. Not sure what to swap either so that's why my main focus is on suspension. Then probably interior/exterior. Think about what means the most to you/needs attention the most and go from there. Might as well as beat on thr thing and have fun with the engine that's already in there if it runs!
My suspension failed inspection, balljoint ready to pop off, and inner/outer lots of play. Once I started digging I found more and more that was sketchy so just started ordering stuff. I dropped the tranny and replaced clutch while it was super accessible.
Yeah that's actually a good call. I'm feeling a bit rushed because I just can't wait to get the car into the 13's and zipping around windy roads like a lawnmower on steroids!
Now that you mention it, I'll probably focus more on the same for a bit. The SI motor in it still runs pretty strong from what I can tell. The car definitely needs new suspension
and I know an axle needs to be replaced. It makes a knocking sound if you go over deep pot holes or if you turn too hard etc. He already had the part though ready to go so..
Any idea on what suspension setup you plan on going with? Always been a fan of Tein Coilovers but I haven't even taken the time to look much up on suspension yet as far as
the EF goes.. don't want to bother with just springs though, definitely plan to get coilovers.. maybe 2 to 2.5 inch drop? I usually prefer more of an aggressive stance..
EDIT - I believe I saw the suspension- skimming back through photos again :D
Just picked up a 90 EF Hatch Si on Feb 19th. It has been awhile since I have owned a Honda. I sold my 91 CRX Dx back in Sept/2013 due to having two small children that had no way of fitting in the rear! I cant tell you how much better I feel now, my heart had a void for all that time.
After a few long years of a new job, and new house, I finally found the money for another Honda. I have been searching CL/Classifieds/FB for about 8 months now looking. Up here in Erie, PA its hard to find anything over a few years old with minimal rust.
Anyways, I found this one about 4 hours away over in Ohio, and jumped on it! The minute I opened the door, and started to sit down in my new cockpit, that honda smell hit me and I knew it was the right decision!
D16A6 replaced with Jasper D16A6 in 2008
Came with Y8 Head and Z6 Intake Manifold and P28 ECU
Will be starting Mini-Me ASAP
287,000+
Is there a clock on the board? I think I have the same car and I'm missing parts. good pictures
Picked up the 91 Hatch SI yesterday. Drove it home and it runs pretty good, but the check engine light came on just before I got home.
It still seemed like it was running just fine, not sure why the check engine light came on, but it reset when I turned the car off at the store
and got back in and started it up.. check light gone? Any idea what could make it turn on and off like that from simply turning the car off
and back on?
The check engine light comes on to let you know that something has triggered it. It doesn't automatically come back on once you start the car the next time you drive it. The ECU stores the code(s) however, if you pull back your passenger side carpet you'll see a kick plate with a little tiny window in it. Behind that you'll see a blinking LED light from the ECU. See the FAQ for interpretation and start a new thread for yourself if you still need further assistance.
Appreciate it. I'll check it out at some point today or this weekend.
Originally Posted by 24TEN
The check engine light comes on to let you know that something has triggered it. It doesn't automatically come back on once you start the car the next time you drive it. The ECU stores the code(s) however, if you pull back your passenger side carpet you'll see a kick plate with a little tiny window in it. Behind that you'll see a blinking LED light from the ECU. See the FAQ for interpretation and start a new thread for yourself if you still need further assistance.
Sweet man, good for you. I had planned on painting suspension components like you have. Knuckles, control arms, etc. My girlfriend and I are going to start into building her hatch and I was planning going to go as far as cleaning and painting/rhino lining the fenderwells, floor pan and whatnot. As close as I dare come to a "frame off".
Bingo, you have the right idea. Lift up the corner, just underneath the LCA until the car just lifts off the jack stand. Then you can tighten everything down to spec.
Basically as tight as you can with a 10 inch 3/8 ratchet.
Bingo, you have the right idea. Lift up the corner, just underneath the LCA until the car just lifts off the jack stand. Then you can tighten everything down to spec.
Basically as tight as you can with a 10 inch 3/8 ratchet.
Thanks, that makes total sense and i appreciate the torque specs!
Ok, so car is all put back together for now.
I finally got it on the ground and tried to pull out of the garage, but found out my axels werent seated all the way in....
Im not impressed with the drop much at all. I was expecting a little more. Apparently after talking to both Blox and TruHart, the struts being "Sport" model means less travel, but require "lowering springs" only to be installed. The Blox lowering springs description says, "Only use with OEM type shocks."
Apparently somewhere it lowered it a little, 1 - 1/2 inch. But the drop would have been up to 2 3/4 if I would have used an OEM length shock?
Either way, I am not happy and am going to try and install Coilover sleeves/springs to the struts and ditch the lowering springs. Spring people blamed strut, strut people blamed spring. It was definitely my fault in the end but hard to understand. Any way, here are some pics from this weekend.
OK, same wheel gap with coilover sleeves installed. Still not happy. One day this week I will be trimming the bumpstops. From everything ive read in the past few days online, it seems like a 50/50 argument on weather to or not to cut them. Ive tried 2 different suspension setups and neither are doing anything for me. It seems my bumpstop is pinched between bottom of tophat, and top of strut perch. Pics to follow! Also not sure if I want to use the Blox lowering springs, or these coilover sleeves first?
Stupid question: Did you disconnect your sway bars when you preloaded your suspension? I did not do that on mine, and when i went back and did it again, the car settled down about 3/8" additional.
Stupid question: Did you disconnect your sway bars when you preloaded your suspension? I did not do that on mine, and when i went back and did it again, the car settled down about 3/8" additional.
I jacked up each side under lower ball joint and tightened everything down to torque while car was off jack stand. I am not sure what you mean
When i preloaded my suspension, i followed these steps. Disconnecting the sway bar on my car let things settle where they are supposed to be i think. Borrowed from another thread:
"Rear:
-disconnect the rear sway bar and loosen all bolts that go through bushings (outer UCA, inner LCA, shock bolt, outer LCA, inner and outer compensator)
-measure hub to fender ride height
-lift the car and remove the rear shocks
-raise the hub to measured height and torque the UCA, LCA and compensator bolts to spec
-lower the hub and put the shock back
-lower the car and tighten the shock bolt
-reconnect sway bar
ALTERNATIVELY: you can tighten all the rear bolts with the car on the ground and without removing the shock, but it's not necessarily easier. You can reach the UCA bolt around the wheel if you have the correct size socket extender, and you can reach all the LCA bolts fairly easily from under the car. The compensator bolts are the tricky part, but you'll need an alighnment anyways so you only really need to worry about the outer bolt. To reach that bolt you need to lock two combination wrenches together because a socket wrench will not fit.
Front:
- disconnect sway bar
- loosen inner LCA bolt and shock bolt
- remove lower ball joint castle nut
- measure hub to fender height
- raise car and separate lower ball joint (this will make it easier to do the next step)
- remove the front shock
- raise knucle to ride height
- loosen and re-tighten UCA bolts
- tighten inner LCA bolt
- lower knucke and re-install shock
- take the car off jackstands and tighten the shock bolt
It's also possible to tighten the inner LCA with the car on the ground, but it's virtually impossible to do anything with the UCA bolts unless the shock is off. You do NOT need to mess with the compensator, as it spins freely within its washers."
03-30-2017, 07:03 AM
Re: My new EF
