TallKyle

ok man seach it beofr eu ask a question thats what i did and no luck. but any way back to my car problem. now i tried a diff. ecu and same problem. it smokes kinda a lot when i floor it and it bougs after about 5-6 grand then goes back to normal its really werid. thanks....

Jester88Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


did you use the stock 88 crx dx engine harness? or did you use another harness from a newer crx or something?

Seriously...go to the search and search for all my posts....u'll see that I've solved this problem for 3 people in the last month or so...they all did mpfi swaps and they all had 88's....gave them my advice and there code went away and fixed their problem.

Also...i've done it on my car 3 times now and they were all 88's. 88 4dr. lx, 88 HB dx, and now 88 crx dx.

If you need me to get the wiring schematics, I will show you that the 88's and ONLY the 88's are different for that sensor. That sensor is not grounded in the ecu in 88 but it is in 89+.

I don't know why it didn't happen for you. Maybe ur special or maybe ur car is from canada...or maybe it's just plain retarded who knows...but I know that this has been the solution for 7 cars now and counting...
BTW, my car is an 88 crx dx, and i did the same thing u did, cuz i have a b20 in my car and am using the 90 integra ecu, and intake manifold.


Modified by bambam at 10:14 AM 8/6/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

I used a 91 PR4 ecu and the stock 88 crx harness I Guess I am special...p.s there are no crx DX's go look in your owners manual its either an HF, Si or just plain old CRX for 88 anyway....

bambam

whatever man...I've solved this problem 7 times now by doing this..don't ask me why it solves the problem it just DOES. i really don't care if you belive me. The only real way to check is to compare for yourself, an 88 dx wiring and an 89 or 90 or 91 wiring. You will see that in 89+ there is no wire at A17 but in 88 there is a wire at A17. I am a local guy around here that does swaps and wiring for people. I am confident in what I know. If you need me to give you schematics or pictures let me know...

TallKyle

yes i used the dx wiring. i think i might have a bad dizzy but i don't know.

Jester88Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whatever man...I've solved this problem 7 times now by doing this..don't ask me why it solves the problem it just DOES. i really don't care if you belive me. The only real way to check is to compare for yourself, an 88 dx wiring and an 89 or 90 or 91 wiring. You will see that in 89+ there is no wire at A17 but in 88 there is a wire at A17. I am a local guy around here that does swaps and wiring for people. I am confident in what I know. If you need me to give you schematics or pictures let me know...</TD></TR></TABLE>I'm not trying to argue just saying my crx is an 88 and I did the MPFI swap without the problem you speak of.

TallKyle

well today i was driving and my car shut off and now its getting no spark. now i think it is a bad dizzy.

JapJunkie

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88slowcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well today i was driving and my car shut off and now its getting no spark. now i think it is a bad dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

could be.

90LSpimpin

Damn Kyle, I thought you had all the wiring figured out? Talkin all your trash about how you'll be able to take me . Anyway, Bump for this man. Hope you find whats wrong

TallKyle

hey is this brandon? haha i need a new dizzy. the wiring is all right but dizzy took a ****. thats all.

TallKyle

ok i found my problem. it was a bad ig. coil in the dizzy. i replaced it and now it runs great. i like the swap i did. thanks for everyone help that tried to help me. thanks kyle.

rsbad454

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whatever man...I've solved this problem 7 times now by doing this..don't ask me why it solves the problem it just DOES. i really don't care if you belive me. The only real way to check is to compare for yourself, an 88 dx wiring and an 89 or 90 or 91 wiring. You will see that in 89+ there is no wire at A17 but in 88 there is a wire at A17. I am a local guy around here that does swaps and wiring for people. I am confident in what I know. If you need me to give you schematics or pictures let me know...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i agree with you...my 88 hatch has a code 14 as i write this.....i did a continuity check from the plug to ECU. I traced back one wire to the blue/yellow(at wrong pin location) and the negative to pin A2 i believe. Ill have to check again the correct locations. if you goto pgmfi...they are figuring out if the ECU actually needs to receive a signal after the signal is send to the IACV/EACV.

TallKyle

ok maybe i didn't settle my problem. when i get on it, it smokes a dark color. my dad said its rich but i don't know.how would i make it run leaner? i picked up a idle control valve and my car still purs up and down. 900 to 1900 rpm every few seconds. my car is pissing me off now and i hate it. i want it to run good for once and **** always happens. please help. thanks....bump for me...

rsbad454

Well, my code 14 is still present....i checked everything and even fallowed the factory service manual. With power off and unplugged form ECU...i get continuity between:A1,2,3,5,7,2,4,6(61.6ohms),8(21.1ohms),15, 14,16. I tried moving that Blue/Yellow wire from A11 to A17, while leaving Black/Yellow out of A17 or A11 and i still get a code 14. I tried Blue/Yellow at A11 and Black/Yellow out of A17, still get code 14 and a high *** idle. I swapped Blue/Yellow from A11 to A17, no high idle but i get a code 14. I leave Blue/Yellow at A17 and connect Black/Yellow at A11 and get a code 14(when i shut ignition off in this configuration, the car stays running). Something definitely isnt right here.

Jester88Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsbad454 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, my code 14 is still present....i checked everything and even fallowed the factory service manual. With power off and unplugged form ECU...i get continuity between:A1,2,3,5,7,2,4,6(61.6ohms),8(21.1ohms),15, 14,16. I tried moving that Blue/Yellow wire from A11 to A17, while leaving Black/Yellow out of A17 or A11 and i still get a code 14. I tried Blue/Yellow at A11 and Black/Yellow out of A17, still get code 14 and a high *** idle. I swapped Blue/Yellow from A11 to A17, no high idle but i get a code 14. I leave Blue/Yellow at A17 and connect Black/Yellow at A11 and get a code 14(when i shut ignition off in this configuration, the car stays running). Something definitely isnt right here.</TD></TR></TABLE> try using an 89 harness?

bambam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsbad454 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, my code 14 is still present....i checked everything and even fallowed the factory service manual. With power off and unplugged form ECU...i get continuity between:A1,2,3,5,7,2,4,6(61.6ohms),8(21.1ohms),15, 14,16. I tried moving that Blue/Yellow wire from A11 to A17, while leaving Black/Yellow out of A17 or A11 and i still get a code 14. I tried Blue/Yellow at A11 and Black/Yellow out of A17, still get code 14 and a high *** idle. I swapped Blue/Yellow from A11 to A17, no high idle but i get a code 14. I leave Blue/Yellow at A17 and connect Black/Yellow at A11 and get a code 14(when i shut ignition off in this configuration, the car stays running). Something definitely isnt right here.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Dude...
listen to me carefully. DONT touch or move the Blue/yellow wire in A11. It is already in its correct location. Remove the black/yellow wire from the green eacv plug in ur engine bay. tell me if ur problem is cured. Also, all this removal/insertion of these pins in ur ecu plugs has got me worrying that you may have f-ed up ur plugs and the pins are no longer snapping in place and making a good connection.
Ur problem should be solved. If not...get back to me and we can try to work it out.

bambam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88slowcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok maybe i didn't settle my problem. when i get on it, it smokes a dark color. my dad said its rich but i don't know.how would i make it run leaner? i picked up a idle control valve and my car still purs up and down. 900 to 1900 rpm every few seconds. my car is ing me off now and i hate it. i want it to run good for once and always happens. please help. thanks....bump for me...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought I told u....an erratic idle isn't caused by a bad EACV. If there is something wrong with ur EACV, such as it not recieving a signal therefore not working, your idle will just be extremely LOW not ERRATIC. Your problem is something else. But, if your old EACV did not cause the idle to be erratic I would definitley switch back to ur old EACV.
It sounds as if you are definitely running rich.
No codes?
What are ur modz?


Modified by bambam at 11:39 AM 8/12/2004

TallKyle

well i just picked up 2 complete 94 d15's. i was wondering if i could use the head and **** off those motors. but i would still use my old dizzy and stuff to keep to the wiring. i got new injecters to see if that was my problem. i guess i find out after i put my motor back together.

rsbad454

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Dude...
listen to me carefully. DONT touch or move the Blue/yellow wire in A11. It is already in its correct location. Remove the black/yellow wire from the green eacv plug in ur engine bay. tell me if ur problem is cured. Also, all this removal/insertion of these pins in ur ecu plugs has got me worrying that you may have f-ed up ur plugs and the pins are no longer snapping in place and making a good connection.
Ur problem should be solved. If not...get back to me and we can try to work it out.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

From the 2 Service Manuals i have, The VTec supplement shows the Blue/Yellow going from A11 to one side of EACV and the Black/Yellow runs from the other side of EACV to the yellow black that supplies the +voltage to injector resistors and pins:A13, A15.
The other Manual i have, which is for the 88CRX non VTec, has 2 different arrangments. Shows wiring for connections with CATA and without CATA. With CATA shows Black/Yellow going from EACV to pin A17 and the main relay. Without CATA shows the Black/Yellow going straight to the main relay. all the removal and insertion of the pics is fine....as one of my job duties for aerospace, i build data cables for flight hardware, so i think i know a little about what im doing. if i remove the Black/Yellow from the 2P connector at EACV, where is it suppose to get its voltage from? You do know that the Black/Yellow is supply voltage correct?


Modified by rsbad454 at 7:37 PM 8/13/2004

Jester88Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsbad454 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

From the 2 Service Manuals i have, The VTec supplement shows the Blue/Yellow going from A11 to one side of EACV and the Black/Yellow runs from the other side of EACV to the yellow black that supplies the +voltage to injector resistors and pins:A13, A15.
The other Manual i have, which is for the 88CRX non VTec, has 2 different arrangments. Shows wiring for connections with CATA and without CATA. With CATA shows Black/Yellow going from EACV to pin A17 and the main relay. Without CATA shows the Black/Yellow going straight to the main relay. all the removal and insertion of the pics is fine....as one of my job duties for aerospace, i build data cables for flight hardware, so i think i know a little about what im doing. if i remove the Black/Yellow from the 2P connector at EACV, where is it suppose to get its voltage from? You do know that the Black/Yellow is supply voltage correct?


Modified by rsbad454 at 7:37 PM 8/13/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

he thinks your a pimple faced teen moron ryan.........OoOoOoOooooo

rsbad454

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jester88Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he thinks your a pimple faced teen moron ryan.........OoOoOoOooooo</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, i did just pop a fat *** pimple.....

rsbad454

I found the problem.........Black yellow was pinned in the wrong location at the drivers side shock tower plug. Moved to correct location and no more code 14.

ZCdohcHB

make sure ur vss cable is plugged in all the way on ur tranny. i might have gotten loose when u did ur mpfi swap

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

BamBam u da man

Jester88Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsbad454 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found the problem.........Black yellow was pinned in the wrong location at the drivers side shock tower plug. Moved to correct location and no more code 14. </TD></TR></TABLE> Ok now figure out why my code 3 wont go away its intermitant......I've tried 3 different map sensor but no go whats up with it?

rsbad454

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jester88Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Ok now figure out why my code 3 wont go away its intermitant......I've tried 3 different map sensor but no go whats up with it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought you said it was gone?