Well, I've been searching and asking, but there are still no answers. Its all for MPFI model but mine is a DPFI. Basically this is just to show you where to locate it on your model because the placement is different. My symptom was when my car run cold everything is normal, but once it's warmed up the idle jump up and down like crazy. This fixed the problem and hope it helps.





Put back in reverse order of removable. Thanks for looking.

 

lol a wood chip! yeah that needs a bit of cleaning.

good post. added to faq.

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...highlight=IACV

Best thread I found on IACV...

errr...

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2Ahow-clean%2A%2A%2A-your-iacv-k-idle-air-control-valve-1575913/

wow.

 

Anyone have any tips for removing the two vacuum lines. Mine are freaking warped on there. I tried everything to get them off. Should I try a chemical or is there a special tool?

 

Get a pair of pliers, grip on the line where it would be "mated" to the metal, and rotate the pliers (and the line) around the pipe. Should break it free. That always works for me.

 

How did it get passed the air filter

 

vise grips is what i use... while they are on, just twist the hoses on the nipples of the valve. it helps break them loose..

but one question, are they vacuum lines or coolant. i got a new iacv for my da and it was coolant...

 

good thread bump

 

This saved my marriage (to my hatchy) Still likes to bounce once in a while, but its a 20+ year old part, so its to be expected here and there.

SOLVED THIS PROBLEM:
Bouncing idle, eventually stalling while engine is warm (Running temp).

I think that while its cold, the thermal fast idle valve bypasses enough air to keep it from dropping below the "low idle" threshold, even if the IACV is closed.

I blame the bouncing on the valve being stuck in the closed position, not responding to the normal signal used to open it slightly - thereby raising the idle speed. if the valve is stuck, the signal will continue to increase as the idle decreases. eventually the signal is significant enough to open the sticky valve, however given the strong signal, it opens too far - the idle springs up, and the valve is closed immediately, suffocating the engine.

 

Wood chip!? LMFAO!!!, that is great haha! How the hell?? LOL

 

And if you want to be more gentle and preserve the hose, you can wrap the tips of your pliers or the vice grips in duck-tape...

 

awesome post good looks

 

Ok so i had already done this and its got this exact problem... Any ideas? Pm me plz might be easier than finding the response here

 

Look for Vacuum leaks. make sure your 02 sensor is working. it could also be your map sensor

 

Thanks a lot guys, I cleaned everythink now it works perfect in idle

 

i know there is no fitv on pgm-fi injection so what's controling the idle on cold starts ?

 

Wood chips.




...



...



ECU does open loop on cold start.
After full warm up, the ECU switches to closed loop mode and relies on more of the sensor inputs.

 

I thought I could add a tip that I wish I knew before I replaced the IACV after a cleaning did not fix my surging idle on my DPFI. My symptoms were a hunting/surging idle at hot. I cleaned the IACV, replaced the IACV $$$, replaced the MAP sensor, O2 sensors, burped the engine multiple times, and cleaned the throttle body. I had given up when I found this video. Basically the guy only solved this problem after removing the dashpot, but realized the issue returned when he tightened the nut on the throttle plate.

I decided to give it a shot. After loosening the nut by maybe 180 degrees my idle returned to normal. I almost cried.

 

Thanks it work my d15b was choking...when running at normal temperature (staling on acceleration)REMOVED MY IACV LIKE THE PICTURE CLEAN IT WITH CARBURATOR CLEANNER!
MY ENGINE RUN LIKE A NEW 12$ REPAIR
MANY THANKS FURUM HONDATECH