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an over heating turbo b series motor in a ef
is something that i see alot haha
ok number 1
what head gasket are you useing?
because it should be the one for the head that your useing and not the one for the block
i dont care if your compresson is perfect and your not leaking coolent
you must have the head gasket that goes with the head
number 2
before doing the thormostat swap to the oem one
run the motor with no thormostat at all and see if your problem is fixed
and if it is then yes ^_^
you just had a bad thormostast in there before and now you can install the oem one
number 3
run the car with the intercooler off the car and see if your overheating problem is fixed
if this is the case then it just means that the intercooler is blocking too much air flow from the rad
the fix for this ia a smaller intercooler or just one that flows better
Was it still climbing past 230 or did it level off there? If it was holding, I think (based on veeeeery limited 2nd hand experience, mind), that makes Marcos' 3rd option pretty likely.
Water wetter in the coolant system. What are you using for coolant?
Do a test drive without the front bumper - if this works, you may need to open up your bumper some to let in more air
As Marcos suggested, do a test drive with no intercooler to see if it's killing the air across the radiator
Slim puller fan instead of the pusher fan
Wrap your DP and add a turbo blanket
Add spacers to the hood hinges to vent some of that heat
Add a block-off panel where the condenser went - it's easy for air to go around the radiator instead of through it. You may have to work on some other ducting to direct air through the radiator.
Water wetter in the coolant system. What are you using for coolant?
Do a test drive without the front bumper - if this works, you may need to open up your bumper some to let in more air
As Marcos suggested, do a test drive with no intercooler to see if it's killing the air across the radiator
Slim puller fan instead of the pusher fan
Wrap your DP and add a turbo blanket
Add spacers to the hood hinges to vent some of that heat
Add a block-off panel where the condenser went - it's easy for air to go around the radiator instead of through it. You may have to work on some other ducting to direct air through the radiator.
Water wetter installed.
Bumper off.
Hood hinges added.
Wrapped my DP, had a turbo blanket.
Got a OEM thermostat installed.
Made sure the HG was correct.
Water wetter installed.
Bumper off.
Hood hinges added.
Wrapped my DP, had a turbo blanket.
Got a OEM thermostat installed.
Made sure the HG was correct.
Okay thanks guys I'll give it a try tonight!
So wait, it is getting hot even with the front bumper off? What about with the hood off?
Driving with the bumper cover removed is what made me realize that my issue was air flow to the radiator. It was night and day difference. So eventually I had to go to work increasing my front bumper openings, adding hood vents, etc. Probably all things you don't want to do to such a minty crx
I have also found that with a high flow cooling fan such as my SPAL, you can keep temps down on the highway by allowing the fan to run even when at speed, if air flow is your issue. My fan comes on at 189 ECT regardless of my speed, and that helps keep it from ever creeping above about 195. With the fan off on a hot day cruising it will still get over 200.
So wait, it is getting hot even with the front bumper off? What about with the hood off?
Driving with the bumper cover removed is what made me realize that my issue was air flow to the radiator. It was night and day difference. So eventually I had to go to work increasing my front bumper openings, adding hood vents, etc. Probably all things you don't want to do to such a minty crx
I have also found that with a high flow cooling fan such as my SPAL, you can keep temps down on the highway by allowing the fan to run even when at speed, if air flow is your issue. My fan comes on at 189 ECT regardless of my speed, and that helps keep it from ever creeping above about 195. With the fan off on a hot day cruising it will still get over 200.
Yes sir!
Today in my testing even with the bumper off, and the fan hard wired on high right off the battery it slowly got to 216 before I shut it down..
I did everything listed above with the same results besides it took much longer for it to creep up into the 210+ range.
Can you link me to your exact fan? Push or pull?
The next step is to drive around without the fmic and see if I still over heat.
Today in my testing even with the bumper off, and the fan hard wired on high right off the battery it slowly got to 216 before I shut it down..
I did everything listed above with the same results besides it took much longer for it to creep up into the 210+ range.
Can you link me to your exact fan? Push or pull?
The next step is to drive around without the fmic and see if I still over heat.
Dang that's nuts!
Always use a puller fan. I had the same SPAL but in a pusher configuration and was still having problems. Now I run the 12" puller 30102029. Also use a fan shroud if you can fit one.
Another possible issue could be in your tune. You want your timing to be fairly advanced when cruising, too much retard will cause your EGT to skyrocket which can increase underhood temps and heat soak everything. Check your ignition compensation tables, because when ECT and IAT go up the stock tune will retard timing even more, plus there is the gear based compensation factor. I've lowered my ignition comps so that when cruising in 5th it doesn't retard timing as much, and also added some timing in the table to the columns where I am at during cruising.
What % water to coolant are you running? I went to about 50% straight water plus water wetter and it works nicely. The other 50% is Honda OEM coolant.
The only other thing I did that hasn't been discussed is I blocked off the area to the driver's side of the radiator so that air cannot simply flow around it, but after going through the IC it is all forced to go through the rad.
Always use a puller fan. I had the same SPAL but in a pusher configuration and was still having problems. Now I run the 12" puller 30102029. Also use a fan shroud if you can fit one.
Another possible issue could be in your tune. You want your timing to be fairly advanced when cruising, too much retard will cause your EGT to skyrocket which can increase underhood temps and heat soak everything. Check your ignition compensation tables, because when ECT and IAT go up the stock tune will retard timing even more, plus there is the gear based compensation factor. I've lowered my ignition comps so that when cruising in 5th it doesn't retard timing as much, and also added some timing in the table to the columns where I am at during cruising.
What % water to coolant are you running? I went to about 50% straight water plus water wetter and it works nicely. The other 50% is Honda OEM coolant.
The only other thing I did that hasn't been discussed is I blocked off the area to the driver's side of the radiator so that air cannot simply flow around it, but after going through the IC it is all forced to go through the rad.
Thank you for all this information. I'm just REALLY hoping my FMIC is not too thick to allow airflow, or that I have an issue with the new engine.
I fought the same issue forever on my CRX. My turbo is so close to the radiator they touch. In the end I drilled a bunch of holes in the front bumper, got a SPAL 12" pusher fan, Gates 180deg thermostat, a carbon hood with vents, hood spacers, and a turbo blanket. Temps seem to sit steady at 200f
...Another possible issue could be in your tune. You want your timing to be fairly advanced when cruising, too much retard will cause your EGT to skyrocket which can increase underhood temps and heat soak everything. Check your ignition compensation tables, because when ECT and IAT go up the stock tune will retard timing even more, plus there is the gear based compensation factor. I've lowered my ignition comps so that when cruising in 5th it doesn't retard timing as much, and also added some timing in the table to the columns where I am at during cruising..
Guessing this engine has not been tuned because it would not have survived like this on a dyno.
06-26-2019, 11:51 AM
HELP - Turbo EF overheating issues
Re: HELP - Turbo EF overheating issues
