Function 7 rear control arms
01-23-2006, 07:03 PM
#28
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If anyone wants to buy a set of these, I will pay you some $$$ to let me borrow them first to make a copy of them on cad and then CNC them out for myself. I have been looking for a set for a while, but nobody ever buys 'em. IM me if you are intersted, you can help me out and make some $$$$$$ in the process!!!
01-23-2006, 07:06 PM
#30
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Re: (spankjelly)
why dont you just get some stock oem ones, measure them up and then CAD your own LCA.... its no different than what F7 did.
except i trust their honesty and obvious attention to quality they put into their design AND manufacturing, which includes knowledge of different alloys and materials which is key.
except i trust their honesty and obvious attention to quality they put into their design AND manufacturing, which includes knowledge of different alloys and materials which is key.
01-23-2006, 07:33 PM
#31
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Re: (Tyson)
Oh wow. Thanks!! 
We work very hard in our patented design and subsequent testing of our products. It means a whole lot to us to hear good FB because it tells us that we are on the right track with our work.
-A
Modified by Function7 at 10:26 PM 1/23/2006
We work very hard in our patented design and subsequent testing of our products. It means a whole lot to us to hear good FB because it tells us that we are on the right track with our work.
-A
Modified by Function7 at 10:26 PM 1/23/2006
01-23-2006, 07:50 PM
#32
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Re: (yz125rider21)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yz125rider21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do these works with susp tech sway bar??? cause i think mounting points are way diff on my 90 crx si</TD></TR></TABLE>
There are two types of the ST sway bars. One type was designed for cars without sway bars (i.e. not the Si). This came with brackets for you to bolt the sway bar to the bottom of the rear shocks.
The other type of ST sway bar was designed for cars that came with sway bars (like the 90 CRX Si). These kits came with linkages that linked the swaybar onto the stock sway bar mount point.
Our new version arms (i.e. version 3) comes with 3 sway bar mount holes and are compatible with a large variety of sway bars. These holes accomodate stock and aftermarket sway bars in the center position (see pic on previous page). You can also opt for stiffening or softening the rear sway bar by using the other holes, but ball-type linkages are recommended.
-A
There are two types of the ST sway bars. One type was designed for cars without sway bars (i.e. not the Si). This came with brackets for you to bolt the sway bar to the bottom of the rear shocks.
The other type of ST sway bar was designed for cars that came with sway bars (like the 90 CRX Si). These kits came with linkages that linked the swaybar onto the stock sway bar mount point.
Our new version arms (i.e. version 3) comes with 3 sway bar mount holes and are compatible with a large variety of sway bars. These holes accomodate stock and aftermarket sway bars in the center position (see pic on previous page). You can also opt for stiffening or softening the rear sway bar by using the other holes, but ball-type linkages are recommended.
-A
01-23-2006, 08:01 PM
#34
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Re: (Function7)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Function7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There are two types of the ST sway bars. One type was designed for cars without sway bars (i.e. not the Si). This came with brackets for you to bolt the sway bar to the bottom of the rear shocks.
The other type of ST sway bar was designed for cars that came with sway bars (like the 90 CRX Si). These kits came with linkages that linked the swaybar onto the stock sway bar mount point.
Our new version arms (i.e. version 3) comes with 3 sway bar mount holes and are compatible with a large variety of sway bars. These holes accomodate stock and aftermarket sway bars in the center position (see pic on previous page). You can also opt for stiffening or softening the rear sway bar by using the other holes, but ball-type linkages are recommended.
-A</TD></TR></TABLE>
quick question-
i just had a set of these land in my lap for free (well barter for labor, but whatever)
i've got a set of sphericle bearings that i was going to press into my newly restored oem arms, but i'm considering running these. any comments on possibilities of corrosion and resulting "stuckness" caused by the dissimilar metals? (the bearing sleeve is stainless)
There are two types of the ST sway bars. One type was designed for cars without sway bars (i.e. not the Si). This came with brackets for you to bolt the sway bar to the bottom of the rear shocks.
The other type of ST sway bar was designed for cars that came with sway bars (like the 90 CRX Si). These kits came with linkages that linked the swaybar onto the stock sway bar mount point.
Our new version arms (i.e. version 3) comes with 3 sway bar mount holes and are compatible with a large variety of sway bars. These holes accomodate stock and aftermarket sway bars in the center position (see pic on previous page). You can also opt for stiffening or softening the rear sway bar by using the other holes, but ball-type linkages are recommended.
-A</TD></TR></TABLE>
quick question-
i just had a set of these land in my lap for free (well barter for labor, but whatever)
i've got a set of sphericle bearings that i was going to press into my newly restored oem arms, but i'm considering running these. any comments on possibilities of corrosion and resulting "stuckness" caused by the dissimilar metals? (the bearing sleeve is stainless)
01-23-2006, 08:06 PM
#35
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Re: (rsca_crx)
I've been drooling over these for a while now, I have the 88 Type R stye control arms/shocks and I was wondering why are they so much more expensive than the regular function 7's? Do honda-tech members get a discount? 
01-23-2006, 08:53 PM
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about the arms...I have a 90 si where the ST swaybar connect to the bottom strut...how can i make them work with your setup holes?cause I have problems with spheric bearins not lining up and causing wear on them and thought what you offer might help out
01-23-2006, 09:13 PM
#37
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Re: (crexer)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crexer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've been drooling over these for a while now, I have the 88 Type R stye control arms/shocks and I was wondering why are they so much more expensive than the regular function 7's? Do honda-tech members get a discount? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The cost is higher due to economics.
With the Type-R arms, we start out with a piece of aluminum that is 2x as thick as the non Type-R version, and we take away almost everything and both versions end up weighing almost the same. It takes about 2.5 times as long to make one Type-R arm due to the larger amount of material that needs to be taken away, more complex 3D contouring, as well as an additional operation to machine the center hole for the eye of the shock.
The additional material, machine time, etc all add up to a product that is significantly more expensive to make.
We are here to answer questions about our products so please feel free to ask.
Please check with our retailers for discount pricing (PM us for a list) - we have our hands tied due to pricing agreements and can't offer substantial discounts.
-A
</TD></TR></TABLE>The cost is higher due to economics.
With the Type-R arms, we start out with a piece of aluminum that is 2x as thick as the non Type-R version, and we take away almost everything and both versions end up weighing almost the same. It takes about 2.5 times as long to make one Type-R arm due to the larger amount of material that needs to be taken away, more complex 3D contouring, as well as an additional operation to machine the center hole for the eye of the shock.
The additional material, machine time, etc all add up to a product that is significantly more expensive to make.
We are here to answer questions about our products so please feel free to ask.
Please check with our retailers for discount pricing (PM us for a list) - we have our hands tied due to pricing agreements and can't offer substantial discounts.
-A
01-23-2006, 09:17 PM
#38
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Re: (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why dont you just get some stock oem ones, measure them up and then CAD your own LCA.... its no different than what F7 did.
except i trust their honesty and obvious attention to quality they put into their design AND manufacturing, which includes knowledge of different alloys and materials which is key. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You know I have thought of doing that, but I don't know if the design (being they are aluminum) is critical to the strength of the product. I figured if I could get my hands on a copy of a tried-and-true product I might as well just reverse engineer it for my own....unfortunately I am not to familiar with the engineering that goes into an item like this.
On another note, it's cool to see that F7 is out of AZ, everyday I find a new cool shop located there....gives me more of a reason to move.
except i trust their honesty and obvious attention to quality they put into their design AND manufacturing, which includes knowledge of different alloys and materials which is key. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You know I have thought of doing that, but I don't know if the design (being they are aluminum) is critical to the strength of the product. I figured if I could get my hands on a copy of a tried-and-true product I might as well just reverse engineer it for my own....unfortunately I am not to familiar with the engineering that goes into an item like this.
On another note, it's cool to see that F7 is out of AZ, everyday I find a new cool shop located there....gives me more of a reason to move.
01-23-2006, 09:19 PM
#39
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (spankjelly)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spankjelly »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
unfortunately I am not to familiar with the engineering that goes into an item like this.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
then why would anyone buy any product from you???
oh wait, nevermind, omnipower makes a fortune... i guess you could too.
unfortunately I am not to familiar with the engineering that goes into an item like this.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
then why would anyone buy any product from you???
oh wait, nevermind, omnipower makes a fortune... i guess you could too.
01-23-2006, 09:20 PM
#40
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Re: (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
then why would anyone buy any product from you???
oh wait, nevermind, omnipower makes a fortune... i guess you could too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, what are you trying to say about Omni?!
I don't make parts and sell them by ANY means, this is just for my car only.
I hope to someday have a full understanding of suspension theory, but right now....unfortunately....I don't.
then why would anyone buy any product from you???
oh wait, nevermind, omnipower makes a fortune... i guess you could too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Haha, what are you trying to say about Omni?!
I don't make parts and sell them by ANY means, this is just for my car only.
I hope to someday have a full understanding of suspension theory, but right now....unfortunately....I don't.
01-23-2006, 09:22 PM
#41
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Re: (yz125rider21)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yz125rider21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">about the arms...I have a 90 si where the ST swaybar connect to the bottom strut...how can i make them work with your setup holes?cause I have problems with spheric bearins not lining up and causing wear on them and thought what you offer might help out</TD></TR></TABLE>
I am familiar with those sway bars. They attach to the lower shock point with an L bracket and a straight linkage. The sway bar holes on the arms (even the stock arms) cannot be used with this version.
Do you have a pic (or pics) of your setup? We can perhaps make better suggestions if we can understand the problem better.
-A
I am familiar with those sway bars. They attach to the lower shock point with an L bracket and a straight linkage. The sway bar holes on the arms (even the stock arms) cannot be used with this version.
Do you have a pic (or pics) of your setup? We can perhaps make better suggestions if we can understand the problem better.
-A
01-23-2006, 09:26 PM
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Re: (efgarage)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by efgarage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about using integra type r lca's? do those work well on ef's?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Certainly debatable, do a search or ask some of the big dog's on here, they can maybe help you out with it. It's as controvertial as catch cans/breathers.
Certainly debatable, do a search or ask some of the big dog's on here, they can maybe help you out with it. It's as controvertial as catch cans/breathers.
01-23-2006, 09:29 PM
#44
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Re: (rsca_crx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rsca_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quick question-
i just had a set of these land in my lap for free (well barter for labor, but whatever)
i've got a set of sphericle bearings that i was going to press into my newly restored oem arms, but i'm considering running these. any comments on possibilities of corrosion and resulting "stuckness" caused by the dissimilar metals? (the bearing sleeve is stainless)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Labor must be getting more expensive these days. I remember a time where friends would help out doing a swap for a 6 pack.
We do not recommend using press-in type bushings with our arms, this includes press-in type spherical bearings. This causes an unsafe situation due to the "plastic" nature of aluminum at high contact pressures (for lack of a better description) with harder materials (like stainless steel). Subsequent repeated insertions will exacerbate the problem and decrease the long term reliability of our arms.
We recommend plain spherical bearings held in place by a retaining ring (one of our original design option uses a heavy duty retaining ring with spherical bearings) where the spherical bearing sits snug, but not tight, in the journal. This version performed well during our testing, but it was determined that the additional cost of the teflon lined stainless spherical bearings would completely price us out of the competition for a marginal difference (there's another thread about our custom poly-graphite bushings).
It was our design decision to make our polyurethane bushing equipped arms incompatible with stock/stock-like bushings because of the safety repercussions. You'll notice that stock-sized press-in bushings will simply fall out of our arms.
Please contact us if you need further assistance installing spherical bearings on our arms. We will be more than happy to help you.
i just had a set of these land in my lap for free (well barter for labor, but whatever)
i've got a set of sphericle bearings that i was going to press into my newly restored oem arms, but i'm considering running these. any comments on possibilities of corrosion and resulting "stuckness" caused by the dissimilar metals? (the bearing sleeve is stainless)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Labor must be getting more expensive these days. I remember a time where friends would help out doing a swap for a 6 pack.
We do not recommend using press-in type bushings with our arms, this includes press-in type spherical bearings. This causes an unsafe situation due to the "plastic" nature of aluminum at high contact pressures (for lack of a better description) with harder materials (like stainless steel). Subsequent repeated insertions will exacerbate the problem and decrease the long term reliability of our arms.
We recommend plain spherical bearings held in place by a retaining ring (one of our original design option uses a heavy duty retaining ring with spherical bearings) where the spherical bearing sits snug, but not tight, in the journal. This version performed well during our testing, but it was determined that the additional cost of the teflon lined stainless spherical bearings would completely price us out of the competition for a marginal difference (there's another thread about our custom poly-graphite bushings).
It was our design decision to make our polyurethane bushing equipped arms incompatible with stock/stock-like bushings because of the safety repercussions. You'll notice that stock-sized press-in bushings will simply fall out of our arms.
Please contact us if you need further assistance installing spherical bearings on our arms. We will be more than happy to help you.
01-23-2006, 09:33 PM
#45
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Re: (efgarage)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by efgarage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about using integra type r lca's? do those work well on ef's?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Integra Type-R rear LCA's have the same geometry as an 88 CRX rear LCA. Only difference is in the stiffer bushings.
The same "88 CRX LCA" has been used in the Japanese/Asian market EG Civic/CRX(Del Sol) and DC/DB Integra chassis
-A
Integra Type-R rear LCA's have the same geometry as an 88 CRX rear LCA. Only difference is in the stiffer bushings.
The same "88 CRX LCA" has been used in the Japanese/Asian market EG Civic/CRX(Del Sol) and DC/DB Integra chassis
-A
01-23-2006, 10:35 PM
#47
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Re: (efgarage)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by efgarage »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so there better than my stock 91 dx rear lower lca's?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not necessarily. It's 50-50 for the majority of cases.
With our arms - we recommend the cheaper non-R version. Both perform alike.
-A
Not necessarily. It's 50-50 for the majority of cases.
With our arms - we recommend the cheaper non-R version. Both perform alike.
-A
01-25-2006, 06:52 PM
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Re: Function 7 rear control arms (Function7)
I don't understand what the problem is with someone wanting to make their car look better. Not everything is about performance. For example given a choice between two identical upper tie bars, one black, the other polished, I will pick the polished every time. I work with a guy that would pick the black. I don't care, it is not his car.
Someone on hear payed $130 for OEM LCA's.
Now add in $36+ for urethane bushings.
You are already at $166+ to get comparable LCA's that weigh more.
Don't forget it is not that easy to press out the old bushings and put the new in.
I don't have a problem with this purchase at all.
Looks great and saved me some work. As far as I am concerned that is win, win.
Someone on hear payed $130 for OEM LCA's.
Now add in $36+ for urethane bushings.
You are already at $166+ to get comparable LCA's that weigh more.
Don't forget it is not that easy to press out the old bushings and put the new in.
I don't have a problem with this purchase at all.
Looks great and saved me some work. As far as I am concerned that is win, win.