TexNAss

Nice write up mate-I've never done Honda ones before so it was a nice guide... A few things i did differently.

Instead of a flame and knife to cut the rubber away- i used a drill bit. Just drill between the inner shell and rubber about 1/4 inch apart. I then used a 3dollar wood chisel and a bent screwdriver to cut and pry the inner shell out.

All that is left is the outer rubber attached to the shell. I used a twisted wire wheel on an angle grinder which cleaned everything inside perfectly.

The Energy Suspension bushing could be pushed in by my big ole redneck hands. Perfect fit once you get the entire edge in the hole.

Less than 3hours to do both including watching some racing and lunch.

Thank you very much,

Tex.

thefastone88

What brand did you use...picking up a trailing arm piece that was already redone and need the whole thing unless we use from our car.

1r33fr7

did you ever have problems pressing the bushing in?? whenever i try to do it, the bushing starts slipping crooked, so i stop

infotechplus

Unless it's really crooked, as you push further the bushing tends to realign itself correctly, and then eventually pops into place. either that or try exerting a more even force on the bushing. Make sure to use plenty of the grease ES supply in the red plastic tub.

Peter

hydro-bobby

Nice write up. Some good additions as well.

Bradshaw

so the dog bone will seat itself? i would assume that would be better for lowered applications as the original bushing would be torquing unless it was adjusted before being pressed in due to the lower setting of the suspension.

i'd prefer a factory ride, but i think anything is better than what i have now. these look a bit more simple to install as well. looking to do these with the eibach pro struts and energy suspension master bushing set (sadly it doesn't include the trailing arm bushings)