89hatcher

iTrader: (1)

try using s wire wheel to take out the old rubber...thats what i did

civic ed guy

Prothane makes a kit that comes preassembled with p/u bushings, cad plated shells, billet aluminum pins. the Prothane kit is only slightly more costly but much easier to install, lighter, & more corrision resistant. Howerver, if you're a glutten for punishment & decide to go the e/s route you need to completely clean out all of the old rubber from the bushing shells & all the rubber off of the pins "dog bones". also the oem pins come with a thick paint to resist rust so the pins once stripped of their rubber should be cleaned well & painted or powdercoated. Use all of the provided lube to avoid noises & premature wear plus it makes installation easier. As far as WD-40 goes, that's the only skin "friendly" chemical i had that would clean off the exess grease. Not a good chemical to use with p/u bushings or their associated lubricants.

BadassEFdriver

Nice write up man I plan on doing the same with some DA9 rear trailing arms.. but ill much rather prefer the blox rear trailing arms spherical bearing bushings..

http://www.vexmotorsports.com/Blox-S...CK_p_3438.html

codybuRr

great write up. ill save this for when i do my suspension. and i might just replace my bushings cuz my car probably has teh same problem.

beansandrice

Wow those look awesome.

mattbatson

Ok, so I have a question

What about doing this instead?

Take windo weld glue (used to stiffen engine mounts) and simply fill in the voids, just like you do with engine mounts?

No muss, no fuss!

No disassembly, no pain the butt, no nothing....just let it dry/cure for a day or two. But the actual filling in will only take a half hour or so.

this should be stiffer than a stocker, but no stiffer than an ES or prothane....

beansandrice

It has been done along with stuffing the voids with fuel line and other clear rubber tubing. But this is an install thread and not a stock busted bushing fix thread.

jdmtunerstore

for the write up

cheap2

thank you, good stuff


LMAO!!!

beansandrice

here to help.

infotechplus

Energy Suspension recommends that you do not use WD-40 or similar in these installs as the WD-40 strips the urethane bush of its lubrication, and ES says that this is the cause of mopst of the customers' complaints about squeaking suspension.

Otherwise a nice writeup, I'll be doing it myself soon.

Peter

Old goat

I installed these a year ago on my crx and have yet to drive it (still restoring it). All I hear is how they suck and not use them. Glad to see that they do work.

1990monster

Just for any one that wants those bushings the part # is ENS-16-7107R from summit racing $37.00 for both plus tax and shipping around $42 i believe after all said and done good thread helped me out and i didnt have any "snap" over steer .......

sir4doorking

very nice thanx i need this done asap lol thank you!

beansandrice

I am glad this install guide helps you guys. Dont ever buy an install tool just make one.
As far as WD-40 damaging the poly lubricant I think this is true for earlier bushings. The new ones have the lubricant impregnated I cant see how DUB would damage them? I have had no issue but I guess you can use soapy water too.

Enjoy, have fun and get working!

Jockone

You are told in the ES instructions to remove all the old rubber from the shell and yet you install the bushings with rubber still there.

Would have been a great write up if you had done the job properly,20 minutes more with a wire brush on a drill and the shell would have been as clean as the dogbone.
The black bushings have graphite impregnated in them but not the red ones.

Not trying to be a dick here but if you are going to do a write up of something like this you should at least follow the manufacturers instructions for the part you are installing,not doing so for me ruined a great and well presented write up.

julioboostamante

Interesting i run insto this thread as im doing this and having a world of trouble! Seems the ES bushing i got wont fit the coller at all. Im doing this on a set of integra Trailing arms and im ready to call it quits! The collar OD is approx 3.3 ish inches and the inner ID is somewhere around 3.1 My problem is i cant get the ES Bushing pressed in using a vise. It moves around way too much and doesnt go it. Also the ES bushing has a lip on both sides that is way bigger than the ID of the collar. Can anyone help me with part numbers to the ES bushing you are using? Ill post up what i have in a bit as im at work and i dont have it off the top off my head.

Thanks!

beansandrice

Thanks for the input. The amount of rubber left behind was minimal. Many have used this thread for help. If you dont like it make your own changes its a free country. Spot bitchin

julioboostamante

Part Number for the ES Bushing i have is 16.717G. The imprint on the Bushing itself is 3364. At this point I either buy the OEM ones or get the right ES ones. My guess is that the bushings i have are not the ones for the trailing arms i 've got. Looking into it more reveals that there is 2 sizes. When you look for them on Rock auto or any parts store the list shows a 3.3" OD and a 3.1: OD bushing.

wanabgts

Took about four pages to find a decent helpful thread.

Nice job! Its good to know you didn't have to remove the arm completely I just rebuilt the whole brake system and was not looking forward to pulling the arm again.

Thanks,
Zack

akacoke

as we know the stock bushing rubber is melted or welded on the dog bone. when you put in the dog bone , how do you know how far you have to incert it? even if you mark it before cuting it off the oem bushing, how would you know if the dog bone or the bushing wont move side to side.

Clipsed

iTrader: (2)

the 90-93 Integra uses a larger bushing, 88-00 civic and 94-01 integras use the smaller bushing.

beansandrice

You are welcome my friend.

beansandrice

Not sure I quite unterstand but I will give it a shot.

The dog bone has an offset side. one of the hole locations "ears" is longer then the other making it a one way deal. You insert it as far as it needs to go.

The trailing arm is bolted to the car lower and upper control arm which eliminates/minimize any side to side movement.

hope it helps.

PaRRoWMaN

bringing it back. once the trailing arm is completely installed the dog bone will find its correct place in the bushing..