welfarepc

Is that a solder only connector? There should be terminal options you can crimp, like OEM connectors. Lots of soldering that way! But the same result. Nice.

The ECT sensor uses the same connector as the IACV, and the IAT sensor. So you have a few options if you want to replace that guy. Should be easy to find. :D

dylspil

yeah the amphenol plugs i went with are both cup terminals only. i did look into deutsch connectors of a similar capacity that were removable pins which would have been a lot less of a pain to wire up but they were all considerably more expensive, plus the added cost of a deutsch specific crimping tool that was needed.
thanks for the advice, yeah i saw that it was a common 2 wire plug but i didnt have any spares around. i managed to depin the plug with broken wires and insert 2 better condition pins with simliar coloured wires lengths attached from a map sensor connector i had lying around. fit perfectly, only took about 10 minutes and the wires are much more flexible so hopefully shouldnt have any more issues with that.

1992BB2

Nice build. Love to see a CRX getting cared for well. They're getting so rare these days, especially the SiRs!

dylspil

thanks! trying to get it in the best condition i can

dylspil

here's the finished engine harness (minus the sensor labels). the sensor that broke off its brittle wires is up in the top left. hope i wired that back in right

also connected up the oil pressure and temperature sensors and ran the wiring through to the cabin. i've bundled the aftermarket sensor wires as well as the shielded distributor wires and larger gauge power/alternator/starter wires together and they're passing through the firewall just next to the amphenol plug,through a grommet like oem.

drilled and prepped a hole to fit a stainless O2 sensor bung at home, and took the pipe to uni with me and had the workshop weld it in. turned out much better than i would have done using my flux core mig.


took the tape off the exhaust ports and cleaned up the gasket surface. just realised i dont think i ever posted pics of the polished ports. you can kind of see it here. all carbon cleaned out, and sanded down/polished using small dremel tools. intake side of the head was left standard.


spent this afternoon sanding down and giving the exhaust manifold a bit of a polish. it's not seen that much use, maybe 10,000km so it was a nice shade of gold but it was covered with oil spots and dirty finger prints. unfortunately it's still got the ugly dual O2 sensors sticking out the side which i wont be using with hondata. I could remove them but i dont have any bung caps and cant be bothered buying any. it's just temporary until i try to work on a diy turbo manifold anyway. With the exhaust all installed i plugged in the wideband O2 sensor and ran that wiring through the cabin too.

dylspil

started looking at the braided hose and -an fittings over the weekend. i've never really messed around with -an fittings before so i'm not 100% sure if these are all good - does any body have a good way to test the seal of these? i'm fairly certain that the hoses are seated deep in the hose ends and the hose ends have been tightened up all the way, but i've got no idea how to test them.
anyway, made a short length to run between the oem fuel feed hardline/-6an adapter and the -6an elbow i've got attached to the inline fuel filter which runs right into the fuel rail. the hose ends aren't fully tightened up to the fuel fitting and elbow, the pics are just during a trial fit. not the best quality pictures but someone might be able to give some advice



started looking at the catch can braided lines but decided i'll get some 45 degree hose ends as there's not much room behind the engine and i'm trying to place the catch can on the lower rear part of the LHS shock tower behind the alternator, above the rear cross member. using straight hose ends kind of restrics the placement of the can, or places the hoses where they will want to kink.

got some 2.5" aluminium piping to make up an air intake. it's just a short-ram at the moment. i've got a 90" pipe to extend it to down in front of the front wheel for a cold air intake but dont have another angled pipe yet to face the filter away from the ground. it's in a good direction at the moment to then move onward to an intercooler with another joiner and 90 degree pipe.
made a bracket up to support the short ram - it slots onto the exposed thread on the back of the gearbox mount bolt with another nut to hold it on, and then it runs up and into the silicone joiner. once installed it's right out of view but it should be enough to stop the police from picking on it. I've had police give me a defective vehicle notice and send the car to inspection in the past because the intake arm wasnt as secure as they thought it should be so im hoping to avoid that this time



I'm getting tired of looking at that bare valve cover so i'll be dealing with that soon. i've been waiting to do that before putting on the new gaskets and spark plug leads and cover anyway, so once i get paint on it then i can tighten everything down for good.

dylspil

got the engine harness labels all finished up so that's ready to be finally put in the car


had a bit of spare time this afternoon so decided to put the radiator in. might cut the upper radiator hose a little shorter as it's wanting to kink a bit at the moment. the oem top mounting bracket fits perfect, as does the RHS lower bracket, but there's no mounting point on the other side of the radiator so it's pretty easy to twist back and forth at the moment. i'll make up a bracket to fix that before i install the slim fan. just from mocking it up it easily clears everything and looks like there will be plenty of room for a manifold and dump pipe in the future

Josip.

Looking real good.

Btw, where did you get the harness? And do you know where can I buy connectors for harness? :D

dylspil

thanks.
i made the harness using my existing oem harness so i already had all the plugs, just reconfigured everything for the amphenol plug and changed the wire lengths. bought the braided sleeve and heat shrink materials online.
if you need new plugs i would just go to a junkyard and grab a whole harness, or cut off the plugs you need. i'm not sure if/where you can buy these new

dylspil

so yesterday the plan was to install the drive shafts and torque all the front suspension down, but when i got to pulling the shafts out of the box they've been sitting in for the last 2 years i examined them and found the inner boot on each shaft have splits at the small end.
pretty annoyed since i had both shafts fully reconditioned not too long before i took the car off the road. looked through my receipts and found that the work has a 2 year/unlimited km warranty.... well i've only put 12,000km on them since they were rebuilt but i'm out of luck with the 2 year part.
i've done a bit of reading around and i'm really jealous of the cheap new/reconditioned shafts that you can get in the US where you trade your old ones in plus a bit of cash and get a new set, we've got nothing like that over here.

the plan is to just replace both inner boots, as the splits are quite small and as far as i can see there's no dirt around in there and no grease has been escaping. just purchased the new boot kits so i should be able to get to that next week and throw them back in the car.

dylspil

i've realised that every now and then one of the pictures i've posted here is suddenly replaced by something weird and out of context... seems to be an issue with the site my photos are hosted on. moved over to photobucket now so should be ok, but if anyone sees any strange pictures let me know and i'll reupload them too.

ok so i made up a bracket to secure the radiator to the traction bar, and another one to mount my catch can. just templated out of cardboard, drilled as necessary and then cut out and folded into shape. the radiator is very stable now, and the catch can seems to fit pretty well down there.





this afternoon i mounted the radiator fan. first tested it to check the polarity for a pull configuration, then wired in the connector.


mounted it up using the supplied bits of hardware. also cut about an inch off the top radiator hose end to stop it kinking. from memory i bought the hoses as part of a kit for an integra which would explain the extra length.

dylspil

still waiting for the inner cv boots to be delivered so i started on the rear suspension and brakes after spending half an hour cleaning all the spiderwebs off the underside of the car.
the aim was to get the brakes pulled apart, suspension components removed, and to start cleaning up the wheel wells for the brush on undercoat/sound deadener but i ran into some delays.
got the brakelines, pads, and calipers off, but then got stuck trying to remove the rotor screws. I ended up having to completely drill them out on both rotors as they were all seized in.
with that done the rotors still wouldnt come off so i had to use bolts through the rear of the caliper bracket holes to push on the inside edge of the rotors to force them off the hub face until hearing that satisfying cracking/popping sound of the rotor coming free.




while i'm working on the rear i plan to do the rear trailing arm bushings and drop the fuel tank to do the fuel pump too. not looking forward to doing the trailing arm bushings because i'm planning on doing it the cheap way diy way... if that fails i'll end up taking them to get pressed in at a shop somewhere. also got to replace one of the rear wheel studs too since it's cross threaded, i'll use one of the good ones out of my old front hubs

dylspil

quick update as i've been working on the car over the last few days but havent taken many pictures due to being covered in dirt and grime.
fuel tank is out to be cleaned and to install the walbro 255.
rear wheel wells have been stripped, cleaned, and coated with the same brush on sound deadener/underbody coat as the fronts.
the old cracked rear trailing arm bushings have been bashed out.
cross-threaded wheel stud has been replaced with a spare.
calipers have been wire-wheeled and cleaned ready for paint.

the plan tomorrow is to start by spraying the calipers and new rotors. then i'll clean up the trailing arms and attempt to press in the new bushings. aiming to clean out the fuel tank of old fuel and sediment too, but not sure how best to go about that.

in the mean time here's some paint i sprayed earlier this week

dylspil

alright so i bashed out the old RTA bushings and cleaned up the bores on the RTAs but still couldnt manage to knock the new bushings in. so i'll take them to a shop to be done as soon as i can, unfortunately tomorrow is a public holiday so it'll have to wait a couple days.

here's how i went about getting a new wheel stud for the rhs rear hub. had to grind away a window in one of my spare front hubs dust shield, and used a little dremel tool to grind out part of the stud's head. this allowed the stud to be knocked out and pulled through the rear of the hub instead of having to go through removing the hub from the knuckle.



got the rear calipers and all the new rotors painted ready to install


cleaned the fuel tank while i had it out of the car. it's been sitting for 2 years so i was expecting some weird **** to be going on in there. looking through the hole where the fuel pump sits made me think the tank was full of rust. although there was still a bit of fuel in there the inside of the tank looked spotty and everything was red/orange. drained the tank and found this

i'd forgotten that before moving the car into the garage to begin the build i put a bottle of fuel preserver in the tank which made it all red haha. good news is the tank is really clean inside, no sediment or rust by the looks of it.

fuel pump before:


walbro 255:


dropped the fuel pump in and reinstalled the tank back under the car.

just need to get these bushings pressed in then i can install the rear camber arms, braided brake lines, new rotors and pads, then bleed the whole braking system before putting the car back on the ground where it should be able to stay for a while.
received the inner cv boot kit last week also, so i might get to that while waiting for the RTAs.

dylspil

dropped off the rear trailing arms to a workshop today to get the new hardrace bushings pressed in, should be picking those up first thing tomorrow morning.

This afternoon i did the obd0-obd1 distributor wiring conversion, sheathed the wires with the same braid and heatshrink as the rest of the engine harness, and extended the starter motor trigger wire. now all the wires passing through the firewall are done and just need to be secured properly to their mounting locations. the only thing left wiring wise are the fusebox, the tucked headlight and accessories harnesses, and the gauges for which i need the dash to be installed to do. for the fusebox i just have a few wires to extend, depending on where i end up placing it.

fresh wrinkle black valve cover is on with all new gaskets. looking good now with the plug wires and cover put on too

dylspil

lonely as hell in here, does anybody read this or what?


yesterday I picked up the RTAs with the bushings all pressed in at the right angle and depth, cleaned them up and gave them both a bit of paint.


didn't have all that much time to get stuck into doing the cv joint boots so i just installed the throttle and clutch cables instead.
shaved a bit off the front edge of the throttle cable bracket to allow clearance for the IAT sensor on the intake runner, and looped the throttle cable down under the intake manifold. adjusted it and there seems to be no binding despite some pretty tight curves. i plan to eventually find a shorter cable to loop under the manifold a bit easier but this will do for now.
after installing the clutch cable i found that the pedal would drop to the floor and not come back up... spent half an hour swearing, thinking that i didnt reassemble the clutch pressure plate correctly or something, but then realised i just hadnt adjusted the cable properly. tightened it all the way up so there was just a few mm of play at the shift lever on the gearbox and the pedal feels good now. might try tightening a hose clamp around the rubber stopper on the end of the clutch cable to stop it flexing, there is still maybe a little bit too much free play at the pedal before it starts to engage.

i'll get onto reassembling the rear suspension and brakes tomorrow before going to uni if all goes to plan

feck

Well FWIW I am and enjoying each post of your really impressive build. Looking brilliant.

dylspil

thanks mate, that means a lot!

ssmrico

very nice

dylspil

thanks!

i'll try to get around to posting another update tonight

dylspil

got the rear end all sorted out now, still up on jack stands as i still need to bleed the whole brake system before putting it back on the ground.
ran into some issues with the new braided lines, the angled fitting didnt fit through the fitting guide rails on the caliper so i had to shave a bunch of material off the caliper around this area. i figured that was easier and safer than trying to bend the banjo bolt fittings straight

here you can see the standard caliper and the new brake line wont quite work


and heres the other caliper after shaving it down a whole lot


closeups of the freshly painted trailing arms and the new upper control arms, dimpled and slotted discs, and project mu pads. i've got the same brand rotors and pads on my silvia and i've found it pretty good for on the street. the crx should pull up great with these plus the ITR front brake setup

feck

This is such a quality build.

dylspil

cheers mate

been really busy with uni this week but did manage to get the inner cv boots done, will try to post some pics later today

dylspil

got the cv boots done and back in the car now, both of them looked like this at the inner boot when i went to put them in the car a few weeks ago


started to pull the first one apart to clean the joint up and the boot just broke apart.. hard to imagine they were only overhauled about 12000km ago.


the grease inside the joint pictured above was in really good condition, but the other one looked very old and milky so i'm thinking the shop that did supposedly "rebuilt" both shafts a few years back only replaced the outer joints and boots, and re-greased the one inner joint but reused both old inner boots. another reason to add to the list of why i dont want anyone else working on my cars.
anyway, cleaned both shafts up and installed the new boots and filled them with all new grease, then clamped everything down.




uni has been kicking my *** this last week so this is basically up to date now. should have some more updates over the weekend

Aftermath_Hatch

Nice clean build keep up the good work!!