DIY CRX race harness, with questions and Pinout
Heres the deal, i really want to get my car running. If i make a harness my self for i think ill have enough $ to get the car done. Since its a race car, i want the minimum. No alt, speedo, ps, ac, no factory dash guagues, no lights.
Few questions:
1) Is heat shinking wire what constitutes sheilding?
2) Will 16 guage wire for everything work? Or do i need to use 18ga for everything and 14ga for the dist?
3) Im not sure about these, do i need all of them? if so what do they do and hook up to?
B13 - top dead center p
B14 - Top dead center m
D10 - Electric Load Detector
D16 - laf
The Following is what i think i need, if anyone sees any i need/dont need please let me know, so i get it right
A1 - Injector 1
A3 - Injector 2
A5 - Injector 3
A2 - Injector 4
A4 - vTECH solenoid (is this the green wire on the other cam shaft - ie next to the distribitor?)
A9 - Idle air controle
A11 - EGR Controle
A21 - Ignition unit signal
A22 ignition unit
A24 - Ground
A26 - Ground
B2 - Ground
B13 - top dead center p
B14 - Top dead center m
D3 - Knock sensor
D6 - vtech Pressure Switch (the switch in the block below the intake, on the cam gear side?)
D8 - Air flow sensor
D10 - Electric Load Detector
D11 - Tps
D12 - EGR
D14 - o2
d15 - Intake air temp
d16 - laf
d17 - map
d19 - map sensor
d20 - tps
d21 - ground
d22 - ground
Heres the ECU pinouts for what im talking about.

Few questions:
1) Is heat shinking wire what constitutes sheilding?
2) Will 16 guage wire for everything work? Or do i need to use 18ga for everything and 14ga for the dist?
3) Im not sure about these, do i need all of them? if so what do they do and hook up to?
B13 - top dead center p
B14 - Top dead center m
D10 - Electric Load Detector
D16 - laf
The Following is what i think i need, if anyone sees any i need/dont need please let me know, so i get it right

A1 - Injector 1
A3 - Injector 2
A5 - Injector 3
A2 - Injector 4
A4 - vTECH solenoid (is this the green wire on the other cam shaft - ie next to the distribitor?)
A9 - Idle air controle
A11 - EGR Controle
A21 - Ignition unit signal
A22 ignition unit
A24 - Ground
A26 - Ground
B2 - Ground
B13 - top dead center p
B14 - Top dead center m
D3 - Knock sensor
D6 - vtech Pressure Switch (the switch in the block below the intake, on the cam gear side?)
D8 - Air flow sensor
D10 - Electric Load Detector
D11 - Tps
D12 - EGR
D14 - o2
d15 - Intake air temp
d16 - laf
d17 - map
d19 - map sensor
d20 - tps
d21 - ground
d22 - ground
Heres the ECU pinouts for what im talking about.

I am not attempting to be rude, so do not take this the wrong way but you really have no clue what you are getting yourself into. I say this because I am currently working on the same thing and it is much more involved and expensive than it sounds. I would reccomend you either strip the wiring from your stock harness If you can correctly understand the wiring diagram, or you can purchase a Universal Painless type harness and wire it via the instructions.
if you havent built a harness before, you might get a lil overwhelmed. just so you know 14g and 16g wire are too thick for the harness. oem harness are made with either 18-22g wiring. be patient and dont rush it, otherwise you will get frustrated.
if you like i can build one for you, pm i sell these all the time.
if you like i can build one for you, pm i sell these all the time.
oh, and to answer your question about "shielded," NO. adding heat shrink to a wire does not make it shielded. the following makes a shielded wire:
primary wire, covered by a layer of vinyl. the covered wires are then wrapped by strands of wire, which is then covered by another layer of vinyl protection. the stranded wire is then grounded. this purpose of this is to keep any magnetic/static interference from affecting the reading of certain sensors.
its possible that the harness will work without the shielded wire, but you chance tripping a CEL without the shielding. when i make a harness i use all new shielded wire. the following use shielded wire:
-crank position sensor
-cylinder position sensor
-TDC
-knock sensor
-o2 sensor signal wire
pm me if you would like to purchase a harness from me, or need help.
primary wire, covered by a layer of vinyl. the covered wires are then wrapped by strands of wire, which is then covered by another layer of vinyl protection. the stranded wire is then grounded. this purpose of this is to keep any magnetic/static interference from affecting the reading of certain sensors.
its possible that the harness will work without the shielded wire, but you chance tripping a CEL without the shielding. when i make a harness i use all new shielded wire. the following use shielded wire:
-crank position sensor
-cylinder position sensor
-TDC
-knock sensor
-o2 sensor signal wire
pm me if you would like to purchase a harness from me, or need help.
Took apart my spare cabin harness today and daam its a lot of wires. So I went to my mentors race shop and he said its a lot easier to start from scratch and throw all the oem wiring out. So id suggest getting a helms manual, read up how to solder heatshrink and the basics of hiw eletricty works and start from there. I have my old uti book tht I could scan to help u if ya want to learn more about electricity n stuf. Good luck
Thank you for the answer on sheilded wire, that was exactly what i was looking for. Where do you buy your wire, everything im finding is really expensive cause you have to buy in bulk.
If i wanted to use new sensor plugs to connect everything, where would i be able to buy the right ones?
If i wanted to use new sensor plugs to connect everything, where would i be able to buy the right ones?
Finding new plugs entails a lot of digging. The majority of harness makers wash and reuse the plugs and crimp on new pins. I would advise you do alot more research before moving any further. The tooling alone to make a single harness far outweighs the price to just buy one premade.
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Great advise so far...
and check this out...Official Road Race ELECTRICAL THREAD
it'll give you a clue where to source the materials and some ideas.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/official-road-race-electrical-thread-info-questions-builds-only-2771547/
and check this out...Official Road Race ELECTRICAL THREAD
it'll give you a clue where to source the materials and some ideas.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/official-road-race-electrical-thread-info-questions-builds-only-2771547/
Great advise so far...
and check this out...Official Road Race ELECTRICAL THREAD
it'll give you a clue where to source the materials and some ideas.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2771547
and check this out...Official Road Race ELECTRICAL THREAD
it'll give you a clue where to source the materials and some ideas.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2771547
I buy the shielded wire locally per foot. The pins and weather pack boots I order take atleast a week to come in so I order in advance, I order bulk amounts in advance so I don't run out. Lmk if you would like 1 built I have enough to build 3 harnesses right now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rywir...fAudioQ5fVideo
i know this i a d, but wouldnt it be pretty close to what i need?
i know this i a d, but wouldnt it be pretty close to what i need?
Good luck on the auction, I'm pretty sure it's reserve price will be close to the buy it now. Not trying to sound rude, giving my honest opinion.
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