94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I used a can of gold wheel bearing grease as well. I like it cause the grease is gold as well so it's not so nasty to work with. I use it to lube ball-joints too.

Yes the slots that run the full length are the air guides. Just don't glop on the grease and you should be fine.

As for the metal washer, yes you bend it over the nut to keep the nut from ever loosening. It looks like your old one wasn't bent over the nut, so that might be where your original confusion was coming from.

James89DX

Thanks for the tips

My old washer is bent over the nut, though. I was/am confused as to why one would need to spend the time trying to UN-bend that over the nut when you can just put an open end wrench over the whole thing and take it off. Doing it this way breaks those little tabs that face inward, but since we're all replacing the washers anyway it's moot.

See here's one of my inners removed. As you can see the washer is definitely still bent over the nut. I just put a 13/16 around the whole thing and took it right off. So, yes, I am still confused as to the need to bend them flat. :p

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Your right. I now remember when I took mine off, I couldn't unbend the washer anyways and I just took it off same as you.

I was confused because the 92+ Civics have the lock washer keyed into the end of the rack. Then the tab bends the other way over the end of the inner tie rod. The inner tie-rod has the ball-joint facing the other way so it pretty much locks everything solid. There is no fat stop-washer like you see on the CRX. Honda must have figured out their original design wasn't cutting it.

MarkOlson

We just used hi-temp bearing grease. I don't think it is very critical.

We just made sure the bushing was not all gooped up with a lot of excess grease in any of the slots. Just put a thin layer of grease on the bearing surface only.

estewar03

This is an informational thread, I just read the whole thing. Thanks for all the info. BTW, where could one buy the quief quick ratio set up?

MarkOlson

We bought ours here: http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewP...idcategory=171

BTW, My son and I both love the way the Quaife rack works in his car. It makes the car feel really nimble, and it handles like a dream.

But you should know that with the Quaife rack, 205 tires and a slightly smaller than stock steering wheel, it take a lot of muscle to turn the steering wheel when the car is stopped.

Quaife liked our writeup well enough that they put it on their web site.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

FYI: The Quaife rack doesn't directly bolt-on to the 88-91 Si steering gearbox. It's made for the HF/DX. A bit of modification has to happen to fit the Si:

MarkOlson

Good catch. I forgot the OP has an Si.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

It's all good. The OP was me and this thread is like 6 years old...

MarkOlson

Good catch. After all this time, I forgot you were the OP.

Canadian_EF

wow. happy i came across this. steering rack rebuild... good idea!

mflannery1980

quick question as I am doing this first thing in the am. where are you guys getting the replacement lockwasher from?

Tyson

should be from honda.

i had heard its not available, back ordered, hard to get? i dunno.

more reason to be careful and reuse it properly.

mflannery1980

Tyson, I know you have prob. explained it in this thread before, but what is the best way to remove this washer in a safely so I can reuse? back to the parts store for me...

Tyson

just reposting this link to the last page.

GeoMetry

I read this entire thread yesterday. Lots of good stuff here. I think this is the next problem I need to tackle on my car. If I had to guess I would say most of the noise is coming from the gearbox area not so much at the other end where the bushing is. I will start by filling you in on my situation then I have two questions.

1. I have a 1990 Civic Si
2. I have ordered complete brand new aftermarket steering rack from RockAuto (AAE 4123N) for $118 delivered. I learned after I placed the order that although the rack will fit in my car, an Si rack is a bit different internally.
3. With a few exceptions, I would prefer to keep the car as original as possible so I am leaning towards returning the aftermarket rack.
4. I have a lift to work on.
5. Both of my dust seals are in torn in two and I suspect they have been for years so I am concerned about sand or other contamination inside the steering rack.
6. I can order the bushing, both dust seals and washer for $51 delivered.
7. In the past I have tried and failed to disconnect the exhaust from the header. I would prefer to avoid that fight if possible.

My first question is how noticeable is the difference between an Si rack and the standard Civic rack? How would I notice it and what difference would it make?

At this point I am leaning towards replacing the bushing etc. without removing the unit from the car to avoid the confrontation with the exhaust system, and to keep it original, but I don't think that will allow me to do as thorough a job of cleaning out any sand or other debris from inside the rack.

Comments?

Advice?

Thanks!

Tyson

instead of just taking a video of the noise, with your helper rocking the wheel you should be putting your hands on every moving part and joint. THAT will determine where exactly you have play, and you probably have multiple sources of play. you also need to turn the wheel all the way to the left, grab the portion of the rack that is sticking out and shaking it up and down. do that again in the opposite side.

its much easier to remove the rack to do the work, and as you said, you can do a more thorough job of taking the whole rack apart. HOWEVER if you take the rack apart, you will end up damaging the pinion bearing seal and it needs replacement, which i hear is hard to find. the bearing itself i believe is not necessary to replace, there hardly any load on it i doubt they ever go bad.

i wouldnt worry too much about taking the whole rack apart to clean. you just extend the rack one way, clean what you can, and regrease.

the difference between Si and DX rack ratio's are so minor, i wouldnt make much of it. up to you.

i think paying for a new rebuilt rack is worthless. its just a $10 plastic part that is really all that needs to be replaced, plus boots. and i would only want genuine honda parts. and its the same amount of work.

Vagitarian

3 years later....

GeoMetry

I had some play in my steering rack bushing. It looks a lot worse in the video that it felt like when I just grasped it and tried to feel if it had any play.( ) Anyway I replaced it. The result is that there is zero play, so my take away from that is that if you can feel any play at all the bushing is worn out.

I was able to get the rack off the car without disconnecting the shift lever torque rod or the shift rod (step 7 in the 1990 Civic service manual)

Getting the inner ball joint apart is pretty easy if you are not trying to save the lock washer that you are supposed to replace. The washer is made from a soft metal and when you wrench it off the two tabs break off easily. Like others have said you will need a 22mm end wrench or a thin adjustable wrench to hold the rack. There are flat spots at the end of the rack provided for this task. I would suggest an adjustable wrench adjusted snug against the lock washer. Then just unscrew it . I think it was only about 30 foot pounds when the tabs broke off. The tabs on the lock washer mesh with the notch in the rack. You can see one of the tabs sitting in the notch after I removed the inner tie rod end.

Of course the part that gets the most discussion here is getting the bushing out. I came up with my own method that worked well for me. I took a couple scraps of wood and put a drywall screw thru each one a few inches from the end. I then positioned them on either side of the shaft with the sharp points of the screws on the buttons. I tried to position the points of the screws in such a way that when I pulled the boards to remove the bushing they would be able to move as far as possible (even so it can only move about an eighth of an inch) I loosely clamped the short ends against the shaft. Then I squeeze the long ends together just enough to push the buttons in and then I pulled. The points of the screws dig in just enough to provide the grip required to move the bushing. Once I had moved it enough so that the buttons could not get back into the holes I removed the boards and it was pretty easy to coax the bushing out using a combination of small screw drivers while extending the rack in that direction.

Tyson

you can just pick one button at a time and slide it out. no need for makeshift tooling.

but whatever worked for you.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Lol yeah, I just use a small flat-head and walk it out a little on each side at a time. Because it's S shaped inside, it doesn't have any problem being forced on one side at a time. Easy peasy.

Hondaf22a1

Where can I purchase the rack end bushing or does anyone have the part number?

Tyson