CRXBart

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhecht &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CRXBart, can you explain a little more how you used the brake line to get the bushing out.
I think I have the idea, just a little confused about how you would drill holes in the bushing itself and how you attached the brake line. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You drill a hole through the bushing, and punch a peice of brake line in it. Then turn the wheel, and push the bushing out, by it hitting the brakeline.

makavali27

to bring this from the dead, I am getting a eg manual rack with 220,000 miles and wanted to ask if you guys think i would need to change the pinion and steering rack? number 6 and 9 from the diagram? Just trying to figure my costs, since i am replacing inner,outer tie rods and bushing.

Tyson

i dont think you really can replace the rack.

just make sure you replace the rack end bushing, #10 and make sure the boots are untorn, or replace. then dont forget to adjust the gearbox for the final step.

(then get an alignment asap of course)

makavali27

thanks Tyson..
How do u feel about tie rods off ebay? I can get both inner and outer for $50 compared to $150 from honda?

Tyson

ive heard of ebay kits failing within a year.

makavali27

yea i think will go oem, otherwise i'll always worry that they might break on me lol. especially when I am dropping a built k20 in... ..its a 12.1 comp motor for street but i will see drag strips..Thanks again

schueytenten

Great write up. It gave me all the ambition I needed to tackle the job.

The hardest part was actually getting the rack end bushing back in. Do you have a secret for that? I looked at the pics from (the german site? linked) and it looks like he is using a piece of brass pipe to bang it in. Is that correct? I would think that would crush it.

thanks again for the write up, you are the man.

EJ2-Fluffy

iTrader: (1)

to bring this thing back,

I ordered #10 for my EG power steering rack. That thing is almost impossible to get off w/ the engine in. Im wondering if I should just replace the whole rack since it will be so much work.

My rack is already starting to squeak! Ive already checked all the rods and joint and all that and its coming from inside the rack.

However, my car has around 185,000+ miles on the chassis and rack.

Any suggestions?

Si-Samuri

Someone should clean this initial thread up and sticky it, there is some good info.

schueytenten

Finally took the car out after the bushing replacement, and it still has a bit of the shimmy. Not half as bad as it was, but a bit is still there. Its about 90% better than it was so I am OK with that. I am guessing that after 260000 miles the steering rack might have served its purpose.

Tyson

did you adjust the gearbox?

schueytenten

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you adjust the gearbox?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am gonna say............. probably not?

Explain.

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://media.honda.co.uk/car/o...8.pdf
</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://media.honda.co.uk/car/o...4.pdf

schueytenten

Nope. Do you need a special tool?

Tyson

yes. you can do it on the car. itll take a few tries until you get it "just right".
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did you tigthen the gearbox as well? i ended up with a bit more clunk too, and tightening the gearbox completely got rid of it. dont forget to do that. the process is not complete without doing so, in my opinion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont forget an alignment.

schueytenten

I just went through the thread and saw your reply you just quoted. Darn it. Is that a Honda only tool, or is it a common part?

BTW, Thanks Tyson for your guidance, I don't think I would have tried to tackle this without your knowledge.

Tyson

i used channel lock pliers. only thing big enough i had ot get around that huge nut.

i had to make "extensions" of each handle using sockets and extension bars in order to get enough torque to break the nut loose.

it actually helps that its on the car when doing this, unless you have a vice thats locked down you can use the length of the steering rack itself to torque the nut loose.

schueytenten

Tyson,

Am I trying to get the larger nut loose, or the smaller bolt?

Tyson

loosen the larger nut, its a lock nut. then adjust the smaller 12mm nut tighter.

tight it all the way, then back it out. check steering wheel effort. then drive around the block and readjust to your liking.

schueytenten

I stripped the hell out of the smaller nut thinking that was what I needed to get loose. Obviously understand why now.

Now I have a job to do on Sunday.

Thanks again buddy.

fireant

Just bringing a very helpful thread back from the dead. I just did this today.

I couldnt get the old bushing out, so I undid the four bolts holding the rack on and let it slump down. This allowed me to get at the tabs from behind, pushing in and forwards with a small flathead. Once I got them started, I came back around to the front side of the bushing and pried at them from there, and I panicked when one broke off, but the progress was already begun so I kept moving with the other side.

Fortunately there are SLOTS cut into the bushing lengthwise starting just behind where the tabs are, and once you get a small screwdriver in one of those slots, you're home free.

On the reinstall, I did crack one of my tabs, but it held in place, and I got it in anyway. Hopefully thats the last time I'll be doing it anyway.

I'm going to drive it for a while and then proceed to adjusting the steering rack.

schueytenten

I have adjusted the gearbox, and I still have a slight clunk up there. Do I need to tighten it more?


Modified by schueytenten at 11:02 PM 3/30/2008

Tyson

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schueytenten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have adjusted the gearbox, and I still have a slight clunk up there. Do I need to tighten it more?


Modified by schueytenten at 4:21 PM 3/30/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

determine where the play is coming from then.

schueytenten

It's actually not a clunk, it's the shimmy under braking. It's just as it was before I replaced the rack end bushing, but not nearly as bad.

Where else could the play be coming from besides the steering column adjustment? I have replaced all the other front suspension parts.

Dylanamus

Are you sure the origin of the shimmy is the front? A bad rear alignment or a worn rear trailing arm bush could cause some pretty weird shimmying and steering response.

You describe it as occuring under braking? Have you checked brake related components? Warped rotors or pinching calipers could cause that kind of thing.

The way I knew it wasn't my brakes when this was happening to me was that it occured in a similar fashion under heavy acceleration too. I went ahead and rebuilt the calipers and replaced the 18 year old rotors anyway. As you can imagine, that didn't solve the problem.

I know shimmying isn't the same as wandering, but sometimes it is caused by one of the shocks compressing a bit faster than another.