Ventolin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would you guys say that this is the cause of my problem? I have loud clunking on bad roads and sometimes when i shift.Ive checked every single thing(balljoints,tierods,engine mounts)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I sure hope so, because I've got the same problem. Thats what everyone has told me. I almost thought it was a combination of bad engine mounts, blown struts, and and bad suspension bushings, but I've replaced the mounts and struts and alot of **** lately and its still there.

Ventolin

So, I've got a set of inner and out tie rods, and the rack end bushing - all ready to go in this weekend.

I will not be able to pull the rack out, I'll be doing this by myself. Besides the tie rods and rack end bushing, what else will I need before attempting this? I've noticed the lock washer being mentioned - do I need to order one of these, too? Can I get it at a local auto shop or do I need to get it from Honda?

As far as Tools, I've got wrenches, sockets, all the basics. Anything in particular I should pick up as well?

Tyson

you CAN reuse the lock washer, but its a lot easier to just rippoff the old one and replace.

its a honda specific part you need to get from the dealer like everything else on your car.

i REALLY recommend dropping the whole steering rack. its not that hard to do.

Ventolin

Yeah, its just going to be a pain in the *** because my whole exhaust is welded into one huge piece so I'd have to take the whole thing off. Previous owner had a shitty exhaust job done. Plus, I don't have alot of space here.

As far as the inner tie rod, I assume its going to be a pain in the *** to get that inner nut off and I dont have a tie rod removal tool - what did you guys use? I'm sure I could figure something out

Tyson

hammer.

there are many other threads about how to get a balljoint/tie rod off.

Ventolin

Ehh, I mean for the inner tie rod. I'll figure it out, thanks guys

Tyson

page 3 chief.

Ventolin

Thanks, Tyson.

I think I've found what I need, a friend has a tool that slips over the complete tire rod and you slip the piece on the end for the right size that fits the nut. Hard to explain, but its just for wrenching that inner off.

I'm excited to be one of the guys praising this when I'm done. I want a good driving car again

StorminMatt

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dread731 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He was the origianl sleeper. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, the word 'sleeper' didn't exist back in those days (late 1940s/early 1950s). Back then, what we now call a sleeper was referred to as a 'suckermobile'.

Ventolin

To get the outer tie rod end seperated from the knuckle, I had to try something else. I tried hammering the bolt from below, and hammering the meaty area of the knuckle - no luck at all, and I was swinging this hammer like King Kong! I guess this one was being stubborn. I tore all the rubber off and slid a 22mm crows foot between the knuckle and tie rod. At first I just tried hammering it and seemed to get some movement but no pop. I put a long breaker attached to it and jumped on the end and it popped out.


Modified by Ventolin at 7:54 PM 4/29/2006

88DXCRX

Honda OEM part numbers for this job:

Rack End Bushing: 53430-SH3-000
Tie Rod Lock Washer: 53536-SB2-000
Tie Rod Dust Seal: 53537-SH3-J00

Ventolin

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88DXCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honda OEM part numbers for this job:

Rack End Bushing: 53430-SH3-000
Tie Rod Lock Washer: 53536-SB2-000
Tie Rod Dust Seal: 53537-SH3-J00</TD></TR></TABLE>



Lock washer was a pain, but i got it off. So far so good.. I think? I need a boot and didnt thinK I did.

bossman032

luckly my rack has been replaced at the dealer along with new axles and bushing ball joints.

I am fucken luckly. 298,000 and going strong.

Ventolin

Yeah this isnt going too bad at all, but Im trying to get the bushing itself out and Im running out of daylight :\ Can't see **** down there. Need to find a flashlight.

Ventolin

Well, I've been checking threads out and all I see is posts from Tyson about anything regarding this.

Tyson

Since its been raining I haven't tried to pry the bushing out, but I will do it first thing in the morning. Any places in particular that are easier to grab? I've got an assortment of good picks to use, so it shouldnt be too bad.

Also, is Honda the only place that I should try and get a boot from? Its got a slight tear so Im gonna spot some silicon there, and then replace the boot next weekend.

If I thought anyone had them in stock, I'd go get one tommorow (nearest H dealership is a distance, so I can't do that, really) but Autozone said its a special order item for them.

Tyson

push the round tab in, then move it around, dont try to push it out, move it around the inside of the cylinder so it doesnt lock back in place. then do the same on the other side, hopefully the first side doesnt snap in place. once you got both buttons no longer recessed in the hole, then you can start pulling and prying and pushing the bushing out.

only other place to get the right boot is junkyard... you should replace it while youre down there if you can. otherwise, youll need to take the outer tie rod completely off again, and realign.

keep in mind left and right side are different.

Ventolin

I was going to bend the tabs of the washer around the nut when I reinstall, but how exactly does this keep it from backing out? It seems like the washer would just turn with the rest of the assembly.

I wish it'd stop raining I popped one button out of the bushing this morning and now I need to pop the other out, and it started pouring again. A little drizzle won't make me melt, but its very windy and its coming down pretty hard :\

Once you get the two buttons out, do you just hook something in there and yank? I've got a pick that comes out at a 90 degree angle, I'll try getting ahold of something with that.


Modified by Ventolin at 4:49 PM 4/30/2006

Tyson

once youre in there, it will all make sense. just do it.

to free the steering rack from the car:

pop off the outer tie rods at each side. then crawl inside under the steering column, remove the plastic cover and loosen the pinch bolt at the U joint at the pinion. then remove the 4 bolts and the steering rack is almost completely free now, except you will have to drop the exhaust and shift linkage. then it will drop out.

if you dont know how to pop off tie rods, then look it up. comes up a lot on how-to threads on axles.




Modified by Tyson at 8:25 PM 5/4/2006

Tyson

btw, heres some pics of replacing the bushing while on the car. i dont think it needs to be translated, the pics speak for themselves.

excellent link.

http://www.decrxgarage.nl/inde...e.htm

damn, its gone. i should have saved it...


Modified by Tyson at 3:52 PM 10/31/2006

Doodoo

I had mine done by a friends shop about a month ago. I almost lost that friend over the bushing replacement... The bushing made a BIG difference.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Hey Tyson, thanks so much for maintining this thread. It's really got a ton of truely usefull info now. That link you posted is great too...


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I almost lost that friend over the bushing replacement...</TD></TR></TABLE>

What does that mean?

CRXBart

I'm just bringing this back from the dead to add new info to help people. I just did this without removing the rack. I found a neat trick for getting the bushing out. With the rack turned all the way to the right lock. Pry the plastic tabs up. Then drill through the holes. Next cut a peice of brakeline to the correct lenght to fit the ID, and then turn left, and the rack with push the bushing out itself. Worked like a charm. Ofcourse I figured this out after messing around with screw drivers for a half hour. Should save someone allot of time, and headache.

puk

I replaced it, but now I have such an amount of play.. isn't normal anymore.. when you people replaced the steering rack bushing, was there also a lot of play on the steering rod, or what the expletive ?

Jaker

Pre-load on the steering rack isn't high enough. You need to tighten the bolt some more. I thought I had it tight enough when I first put it together. Once it was in the car, I realised it needed to be a bunch tighter.

rhecht

CRXBart, can you explain a little more how you used the brake line to get the bushing out.
I think I have the idea, just a little confused about how you would drill holes in the bushing itself and how you attached the brake line.