broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC!
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broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC!
as u can see from the pics my bolt head broke on the rear suspension! i cannot get this thing out. tried to knock rust loose with air hammer, have air impact and NOTHING! head broke off now stuck and i dont really want to retap it or go buy a whole new unit. SO u see where the end pf the bolt is? that metal thing isnt a nut exactly its some round metal gromet. what it i hammers the **** out of it and ripped it off? then just used a nut and bolt? i tried rust buster and PB pennitrating oil and ic annot do it. heated up with torch and tried to unscrew with vice grips
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (tRex99)
thats a very common problematic bolt, if you can't use an extractor, you'll have to cut it out with a saws-all or a cookie cutter
#3
Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (tRex99)
u can take a grinder very carefully and grind both ends off then unbolt the arm and hammer the bolt out or drill it and then use another bolt and nut
just a idea
just a idea
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (tRex99)
You cannot unscrew that stud with vice grips. Only the end has threads on it, while the middle is smooth. You could use a cut-off wheel to cut through the bushing on both sides & then separate the UCA from the Trailing arm. Then you will be able to knock that nut off. Next you buy a new bushing (your old one is nasty anyways), and have it pressed in...
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ok so what im getting is, "cut that **** bastard off and just use a basic nut and bolt." no worries from there? sounds easy enough. but that metal piece that the bolt screwed into is gonna be the pain. I guess i can blast up the air hammer and go at it. it'll cut that thing right off. wheres a place to get these bushings? id like to replace a few. im wondering if they have like rear kits, front kits. i know ive seen poly ones but if i can just find some replacement it'll work just fine.
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Re: (tRex99)
hondaautomotiveparts.com has the best prices, but they charge a $5 handling fee, so order everything you need at once. There is no kits, but sometimes it's cheaper to order a replacment arm rather than getting the bushings & paying someone to press them in/out...
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Re: (94eg!)
i always find my own ways. i'll use a damn hammer or something. grease it up, get a rubber mallet and pound it in..but a new arm sounds good cause then i'll get 2 new end bushings and it'll be pretty..
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (tRex99)
WHOA! hell no, im not paying $49 for 2 bushings. then its 70 for 2 arms. i can make a piece of rubber for that much. id rather spend 159 bucks and get a complete polly urethane kit
what about something like this?
1988-1991 CRX, Civic polyurethane suspension bushing kit by Energy Suspension. The Energy Suspension Hyper Flex polyurethane CRX, Civic suspension bushings include the front and rear control arm bushings, front strut rod bushings, front and rear shock bushings, front end links, steering rack bushings, manual transmission shift stabalizer bushings, and ball joint and tie rod end boots. The Energy Suspension Hyper Flex polyurethance CRX, Civic suspension bushings provide longer lasting bushings that react quicker to suspension inputs for better driver control and flatter, faster, cornering.
what about something like this?
1988-1991 CRX, Civic polyurethane suspension bushing kit by Energy Suspension. The Energy Suspension Hyper Flex polyurethane CRX, Civic suspension bushings include the front and rear control arm bushings, front strut rod bushings, front and rear shock bushings, front end links, steering rack bushings, manual transmission shift stabalizer bushings, and ball joint and tie rod end boots. The Energy Suspension Hyper Flex polyurethance CRX, Civic suspension bushings provide longer lasting bushings that react quicker to suspension inputs for better driver control and flatter, faster, cornering.
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (tRex99)
Have you tried to disconnect the two inner bolts that hold that control arm onto the chassis? That could relieve the load off the stuck bolt and maybe it would come out easier. I think the costs you are looking at to replace those bushings are getting pretty close to the cost of a rear camber kit so why not?
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (fireant)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fireant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the costs you are looking at to replace those bushings are getting pretty close to the cost of a rear camber kit so why not? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly what I was thinking.....rear camber kit...
BTW how do you like the <FONT COLOR="red">OMNI</FONT> set up you have? Got any <FONT COLOR="purple">PICS</FONT> of your ride with em on and lowered?
Exactly what I was thinking.....rear camber kit...
BTW how do you like the <FONT COLOR="red">OMNI</FONT> set up you have? Got any <FONT COLOR="purple">PICS</FONT> of your ride with em on and lowered?
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (tRex99)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tRex99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WHOA! hell no, im not paying $49 for 2 bushings. then its 70 for 2 arms. i can make a piece of rubber for that much. id rather spend 159 bucks and get a complete polly urethane kit</TD></TR></TABLE>
the energy suspension kit does NOT include the rear upper control arm bushings, nor does it include the compensator arm bushings. your gonna have to go with mugen or stock on that.
the energy suspension kit does NOT include the rear upper control arm bushings, nor does it include the compensator arm bushings. your gonna have to go with mugen or stock on that.
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Re: (Tyson)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that bushing looks like it could stand to be replaced as well...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed
Agreed
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (GSRCRXsi)
it doesnt? well i ordered a kit so i'll see. i'll have some extra's that i can make work if not. i havent worked on it yet so i dont know. but like they are saying a hacksaw, or something like this will be fine. im just gonna use my air chissle and cut the bastard off. then just use a nut and bolt with 2 washers. should work plenty fine. i hope this kit comes with that crap cause seriously that would suck to pay 49 bucks for 2 rubber pieces, and then u say u have to get them pressed in. my way liek i said would be a hammer and some lube. anyone think this would work? if not i could just buy a freakin rear cmaber kit for prolly 100 bucks..whats a good rear camber kit that performs just fine and cheap?
oh and the omni's are just hanging there, they arent even bolted up or anything, brand new never rode on them, yet
oh and the omni's are just hanging there, they arent even bolted up or anything, brand new never rode on them, yet
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (tRex99)
yea the kit doesnt come with them. when they say rear control arm, thay are talking about the rear lowercontrol arm not upper.
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (GSRCRXsi)
well ****. i have aluminized rear lower control arms. they already have new bushings. i'll see what i can do on making those ones fit up top
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only throw a bolt through there if its the full diameter of the inside of the bolt, and the stock bolts are a grade 10. just something to think about. if its not the same diameter, it will bounce around in there.
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thats a tough situation! I think you have no choice but to get a die grinder and cut off the upper arm by the bushing to try to save the trailing arm. then drill out he end of the bolt and put a bolt, nut and washer. and of course youll need a new upper arm...good luck.
#24
Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (tRex99)
I've been in the same seat as you man! Just get a grinder and be very careful, cut it right out! Also make sure you have really good eye protection! I had some but not enough...I got some metal dust in my eyes, and it shreaded up the lower inside part of my eye lids! Burned soo bad for a few weeks and looked like all I did was smoke very minute of the day. But to recap
-Eye protect & grinder will fix your issue!
Also check a local machine shop for fees to press in a bushing. Our local place only charged $6 to remove the old and press the new one in..I knew him, but never the less. The Honda dealer wanted $55 flat rate for about 10 minutes worth of work
Best of luck
-Eye protect & grinder will fix your issue!
Also check a local machine shop for fees to press in a bushing. Our local place only charged $6 to remove the old and press the new one in..I knew him, but never the less. The Honda dealer wanted $55 flat rate for about 10 minutes worth of work
Best of luck
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Re: broken bolt! this is important too! HELP! PIC! (Synth124)
NOOOO!!! i lost my bid on ebay on the last 5 seconds! i was bidding on ctr intake cam and me and 3 other people were at war for this thing. dollar after dollargot to 212 i tried 215 but the sniper got me at the last second no time to bid! ohwell i'll get crower ...anyway well heres what i was thinking...
i have cutting blades but cant find the tool to use it so i might borrow my friends or even a hack saw is fine if i can fit it. i'll cut the bolt and remove the upper arm, drill the bolt out and its fine! and as for the rubber i'll ge that thing out myself and since i'll have extra lower control arm poly, i'll take my 2 dremils and go at that bastard and make a direct match of the stock one. then put it in! sounds pretty good, no need for new upper arm or bushing!
i have cutting blades but cant find the tool to use it so i might borrow my friends or even a hack saw is fine if i can fit it. i'll cut the bolt and remove the upper arm, drill the bolt out and its fine! and as for the rubber i'll ge that thing out myself and since i'll have extra lower control arm poly, i'll take my 2 dremils and go at that bastard and make a direct match of the stock one. then put it in! sounds pretty good, no need for new upper arm or bushing!