91 CRX rear brake upgrade
#1
91 CRX rear brake upgrade
i bought a 91 crx si with a b18a1 swap already in. the brakes in the front have already been upgraded to integra brakes but the rear havent. what do i need to have integra brakes in the rear?
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
You already have integra brakes in the rear lol
Integra rotors/pads = 91 CRX Si rotor/pads
You can install larger rear disc using EP3 stuff, but it's overkill for you setup.
Here's a how to for that if you decide.
http://eastcoastefcivics.com/index.php?topic=2036.0
Integra rotors/pads = 91 CRX Si rotor/pads
You can install larger rear disc using EP3 stuff, but it's overkill for you setup.
Here's a how to for that if you decide.
http://eastcoastefcivics.com/index.php?topic=2036.0
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
Adding to the size of your rear brakes will give you no more performance it will add weight that is about all. Most of the braking is done on the front brakes of these little cars.
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
What you really want is the 1st Gen CRX HF rear drums. They are all aluminum and are the lightest rear brake setup available. They will work on 88-91 civic/crx (with rear drums).
#6
Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
i rather not have drum brakes in the back no offense i cant deal with them lol nut back to my main question my brake calipers are bigger in the front than the back. and if i get slotted rotors i can just get crx si rotors ?
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#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
You probably want to get the correct rotors and pads for what braking system you have.
Example: If you have Integra brakes on the front, you should probably get integra pads/rotors. But hey that just makes too much sense.
#9
Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
We have cross drilled front and rear rotors available, with zinc plating and premium metallic pads for $155. Email atomparts@hotmail.com for more info.
#10
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Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
In response to the Original Post, I think lightweight drums in the rear would be best for a drag car as that would help reduce intertia during acceleration, for a track car, also helps with braking*(less rotating mass/inertia slows down quicker too). As the one fellow kept repeating, most of the braking like 75% is done by the front wheels anyhow. I might drive spirited myself on the street but not racing and I think this lighter setup will help save fuel, so I am going aluminum. Also lighter drums means less unspring mass, which helps the suspension work better.
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I have a 1988 CRX HF WITH CAST IRON DRUMS. I am getting Aluminum Drums for my car now.
-----
CONSIDERING DRILLING HOLES IN THE ALUMINUM DRUM HOUSINGS to lighten them further? On the sides where the wheel studs protrude. Just to REDUCE Rotating mass. I CONSIDERING Drilling around the perimeter where the friction surface/steel lining is located, to help vent hot gases and brake dust from the shoes during braking.
---
What are your guys thoughts about this extreme idea?
Thanks
Dave
-----
I have a 1988 CRX HF WITH CAST IRON DRUMS. I am getting Aluminum Drums for my car now.
-----
CONSIDERING DRILLING HOLES IN THE ALUMINUM DRUM HOUSINGS to lighten them further? On the sides where the wheel studs protrude. Just to REDUCE Rotating mass. I CONSIDERING Drilling around the perimeter where the friction surface/steel lining is located, to help vent hot gases and brake dust from the shoes during braking.
---
What are your guys thoughts about this extreme idea?
Thanks
Dave
Last edited by avrfan; 08-12-2014 at 04:22 PM. Reason: readability, and reply to OP.
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
In response to the Original Post, I think lightweight drums in the rear would be best for a drag car as that would help reduce intertia during acceleration, for a track car, also helps with braking*(less rotating mass/inertia slows down quicker too). As the one fellow kept repeating, most of the braking like 75% is done by the front wheels anyhow. I might drive spirited myself on the street but not racing and I think this lighter setup will help save fuel, so I am going aluminum. Also lighter drums means less unspring mass, which helps the suspension work better.
-----
I have a 1988 CRX HF WITH CAST IRON DRUMS. I am getting Aluminum Drums for my car now.
-----
CONSIDERING DRILLING HOLES IN THE ALUMINUM DRUM HOUSINGS to lighten them further? On the sides where the wheel studs protrude. Just to REDUCE Rotating mass. I CONSIDERING Drilling around the perimeter where the friction surface/steel lining is located, to help vent hot gases and brake dust from the shoes during braking.
---
What are your guys thoughts about this extreme idea?
Thanks
Dave
-----
I have a 1988 CRX HF WITH CAST IRON DRUMS. I am getting Aluminum Drums for my car now.
-----
CONSIDERING DRILLING HOLES IN THE ALUMINUM DRUM HOUSINGS to lighten them further? On the sides where the wheel studs protrude. Just to REDUCE Rotating mass. I CONSIDERING Drilling around the perimeter where the friction surface/steel lining is located, to help vent hot gases and brake dust from the shoes during braking.
---
What are your guys thoughts about this extreme idea?
Thanks
Dave
your 88 Hf came with iron drums. the aluminum ones are from 1g CRX.
and your idea is pointless.
#12
Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
First. Look at the date the last post was made before being a Necromancer and raising a zombie thread from the dead.
Second. Do not mess with the integrity of brake hardware or suspension. If the cast AL cracks and completely brakes apart what happens next? The wheel cylinder pops out leaking fluid. Your peddle goes to the floor. You then pull the e-brake, but only on side slightly engages because the other one is broken.
Then, you die.
And even worst, your EF then looks like this:
Why? Because you wanted to save some ounces. Don't be stupid. Just go to the gym and work out or don't eat lunch to save weight.
Second. Do not mess with the integrity of brake hardware or suspension. If the cast AL cracks and completely brakes apart what happens next? The wheel cylinder pops out leaking fluid. Your peddle goes to the floor. You then pull the e-brake, but only on side slightly engages because the other one is broken.
Then, you die.
And even worst, your EF then looks like this:
Why? Because you wanted to save some ounces. Don't be stupid. Just go to the gym and work out or don't eat lunch to save weight.
#14
Re: 91 CRX rear brake upgrade
Let me introduce you to my friend.
His name is Darwin. He wrote this Law. It says if your stupid enough to compromise the integrity of your brakes to save weight, you shouldn't reproduce.
So...
Step 1: Drill holes in cast AL Drums.
Step 2: End your blood line.
(I'm having a bad week.)
His name is Darwin. He wrote this Law. It says if your stupid enough to compromise the integrity of your brakes to save weight, you shouldn't reproduce.
So...
Step 1: Drill holes in cast AL Drums.
Step 2: End your blood line.
(I'm having a bad week.)
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