PINKS

EDIT; FOUND A STORED CODE 6 and 14

So i bought a new beater for the winter. Its a civic dx with a first gen b16 OBDO

I bought it for $1000, fixed up the body and painted it, made an intake and beat on it all week. I read that the redline was 8000, but I had a DX so I didnt know what I was revving to. I got used to where I would hit the the rev limiter and shifted before that, seemingly felt like I was revving out the gear

Well today I installed a tach, and whatdya know, 4800 rpm redline. Cuts power

Im throwing no codes. Only thing I noticed that needs some attention is that when you start it up cold, sometimes itll bog down and die, and if you hit the gas itll just die. Or if its only been going for like 15 secodns and you try and rev it, itll stuttter for a second at that rpm and then itll rev like normal. But will only rev to 4800

One sensor appears to be broken or atleast the wires pulled out, the sensor closest to the front of the car on the cylinder head under the distributor, I think a coolant temp, the wires seem to be pulled out if.

Oil level is fine

Need advise

Thanks


Modified by PINKS at 1:05 PM 11/28/2006

PINKS

ryanplayjoint

If its a one wire sensor thats pulled out it is the temp. for the gauge cluster. I'm assuming that the car is always indicated as cold, right? And what kind of tach did you install? It might have a module or setting to distinguish from a 4,6, or 8 cylinder engine, get back to us on that.

PINKS

I dont know how many wires it had, I do see a green/white and red/white sensor exposed right under it though.

Temp on the cluster goes to operating temp so I dont think thats it.

I also found that the check engine light was burned out/ swapped and Im throwing a stored code 6 and code 14

PINKS

Cleaned IACV with carb cleaner, didnt do ****, reset the ecu and everything.

Dunno if it affects vtec or why I have this rev limit though

I guess I gotta buy a new coolant temp sensor

PINKS

What would cause my car to not let me rev passed 4800?

FourthGenHatch

How about removing or unplugging the tach you installed. I assume you probably had to mess around with wires on the distributor to get a tach signal and you very possibly screw up some kind of sensor, maybe even messed up voltage signals for cam sensor or something like that. Remove or unplug it and see what happens from there.

PINKS

I cut zero wires for this tach, I made a ground, used an open power source from the fuse box for power and simply tapped into the tach wire behind the cluster and wrapped the wire around it for my tach signal

Didnt cut any wires

It revs just as high as it did before the install, just now I can see what rpm Im at

I must say though, even thought Im used to my d16a6 6200 rpm, it sure as fvck sounds like its revving past 4800

I can bring 3rd upto 120km/h

RockWolf

from idle to 4800 does it change sound once? like a playing a note then going to an other?

PINKS

100% NO!!

I took the car on the highway for the first time today, this thing must have a LS tranny or whatever b series tranny has long gears, cause I can cruise @ 60mph and only be at 2k rpms

But I lugged it in 4th, went from 900rpm @ 40mph to 4800rpm@110mph and there was no tone change to indict vtec engaging

I dont think vtec engages with my code #4, but everyone in the threads I searched said it didnt throw the car into limp mode so I assume it would still rev

ryanplayjoint

when you say the two wire sensor which is the coolant temp sensor is showing wire or unplugged? If that is not working properly will not have vtec and possibly not be able to rev past 4800.

PINKS

wires are ripped right out of the sensor, fixing today, dont think thats the problem though witht he rev limit

import2nr88

under your vtec seloniod is a single wire that hooks in with a grey plug, check and make sure that wire is hooked up. That is your Thermo-water sensor. It is another water temp sensor that makes sure the car is warm enough to engage vtec. Also on the back of your tach, are there any wires that come out and loop back into it? if so there should be two and both those need to be cut to read for a 4 cylinder. it sounds like its reading for a 6 cylinder right now. if thats true then your 4800 is really 7200. also try hooking your tach lead up off the blue wire on your dizzy and see if that changes anything. 4th at 40mph shouldn't be lower than 1200rpm no matter what tranny youu have.

-jon

civhatch90

in 4thgear at 4800rpm doing 110mph? it seems like your tach is way off otherwise in 5th gear you could probably top out at 170mph

PINKS

the tach definetely isnt off, as idle still reads 500rpm which was what the e-test dyno said

I think I took 4th to 4500 and I was at about 175km/h, so like 105mph

import2nr88

at 60mph or like 96kph or so what does the tach read. there is no way that it is accurate with 4th going to 105 at 4800. my built b16 with y1 tranny which is pretty short hit 100mph at around 9600 or so in 4th.

PINKS

I think I was at about 2100rp, @ 60mph

I dont think it has a B16 trans though

I just got back form the junkyard and found a temp sensor with a nice wire harness and clip out of a d15, hopefully it works.

Also found a a long bolt pattern IACV on another d15 of some sort so hopefully its still good and will get rid of the code, just gotta soak the bitch in carb cleaner

PINKS

So I changed the coolant temp sensor, nice factory harness clip and everything and that code is now gone

I also swapped in the very clean IACV but I still have the IACV code

I can now rev the car freely in nuetral past 4800 rpm

Also, when driving in first I can wind it out to about 6000, then you can feel its not making any more power. 2nd I also wound out to about 6krpm and again felt no more power

I did hit the rev limiter again once, seems to be about 6krpm

Its raining out hard so I cant really beat on the car, but I think the aftermarket tach might be screwy at those rpms or something, worked fine on my d16a6 a month ago though

I dont know if I have vtec or not, the first time I wound out first Im pretty sure I heard the distinct sound, but the second gear pull i didnt hear anything.

Also, for reference, I got 2nd gear up to 60mph @ the 6k rpm. Is that normal? LS trans maybe?

PINKS

Tippyman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PINKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It revs just as high as it did before the install, just now I can see what rpm Im at</TD></TR></TABLE>

You probably didn't select the 4 cylinder option on the tach. They are usually preset for 8 cylinders from the factory.

crx_88_si

can you here a change in engine tone around 5k? if not, vtec is NOT engaging.

PINKS

Its a 90 Civic Dx

I have no idea about the timing

The redlimit as it stands now is 100% 6200rpm, I do not hear vtec engaging, tried multiple times

It is a PR3 ecu, which is correct for the obd0 b16a

As for the tach being wrong I dont know, there are no buttons or extra wiring or anything, it worked fine on my d16a6 last month

PINKS

bump

PINKS

Changed the oil, reset ecu, cleaned the battery terminals and the car now rev freely and powerfully to 8k+

Im not gettin VTEC engaging though

The only code Im getting is for the IACV, would that cause it? I doubt it

Kinda stumped on why thats not engaging

import2nr88

If you are revving all the way up to 8k then your vtec should be engaging. Usually It wont rev that high unless vtec is working. Mine would only rev to the low 6k's when not warmed up and after about 3 minutes of nice driving it would then rev way out. My ecu was a pr3 also that had a mugen chip with a 10.5k revlimiter but my crower cams broke at about 9.8k. 60mph @ 6k rpm sounds about right for an ls tranny. is there a reason you chose such long gearing for a vtec engine?