rapier216

Hi all,

I have gotten a 1991 Civic Wagon in order to get to work Problem is, it needs some work. I also have access to another wagon, identical to this one, with a blown engine, for parts.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/535aDVKLqHRA3w8K2

Body-wise, it's not bad except I need a muffler and tailpipe... I can get those fairly cheap. I do have to check the heater controls as I can't get the heater fan on... the switch has no 'detents' for speed 1/2/3/4/off, so I don't know if the switch is broken or disconnected. Have to get behind the console to see.

One of my biggest issues right now is that it has no power going uphill... I drive the highway for about 3/4 of my home-to-work route, and there are several places where I have to put the 'pedal to the metal' just so I can keep from dropping below about 60 mph (in a 70 mph area). I can hear the lifters clicking at times, so I think it has something to do with that.

The other major issue is that I'm going through gas at a fast rate... if I fill up say Tues morning, I have to get gas by Fri morning. The trip is about 45 miles one-way, so this equals about 200 - 210 miles per tank... somehow I don't think this is normal.

I've only had the car for about 3 weeks so I haven't been able to do much to it (also short on $$$ right now due to a job change).

I have put some fuel-injector cleaner in the first week, and I'm planning on using SeaFoam as soon as I can (I also have to do an oil change then so...).

I'm going to pull the plugs and check them... have already visually checked the air filter (looked good, no real darkness or build-up), and put about 1/2 bottle of oil treatment in to see if it made any difference.

I'm a backyard mechanic and don't have a lot of tools or knowledge. Looking for ideas on where to start.

Thanks for any guidance... have a great day

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Based on your high fuel consumption and low power, it makes me think you might be running on only 3 cylinders.

1. Check the ECU codes - if the CEL isn't on, does it come on when you first turn the car on?
2. Check the plugs, and replace as necessary. Inspect your plug wires, rotor button, and distributor cap, and replace as necessary.
3. Do a compression test. If you have access to the tool, also do a leak down test.
4. Check to make sure each injector is actually firing by unplugging each one one-at-a-time while the car is running at idle. If the idle changes/drops, the injector was working. Plug it back in and try the next. If there is no change in idle when you unplug one of them, that injector is not firing.

rapier216

Hi DaX , and thank you for the reply.

#1, no it's not on after starting the car, but I'll check to see if it's on at first power on.
#2, I'm going to check the plugs this weekend, and also take a look at the rotor.
#3 and #4 may have to wait a bit ($$$ and not sure where the injectors are yet, will have to look.

What I'm wondering (and I understand I don't know but am guessing ) is that, because I hear clacking from the front end when I accelerate, either the lifters are sticking or the rocker arms aren't adjusted correctly. My guess, if either of these (or both) is the case, is that not all of the 'compression' power is built up due to one or more of the lifters not completely closing. Am I out in left field with this ?

I have started keeping track of my mileage and gas used since I got the car and it seems as though I'm actually getting between about 26 and 28 mpg. My fillups have been around 8 gal (I'm trying not to run out of gas and I'm not 100% sure the guage is acurate yet). It's just that it loses power going up inclines, and I'd like to try to fix that.

As an aside, though, my wife is wanting me to get a different car since I drive distance now, and she wants to get a car with 30+ MPG minimum, so we are looking

Anyway, I appreciate the starting steps and will try to reply once I am able to do the first couple.

Have a great weekend

scelestus

FYI, an 89 wagon was my first 4G Civic, so I learned all this by trail and pain.

The dual point setups have a primary and secondary. The engine won't behave as explained because the primary should normally be cycling but the secondary should only kick on at higher throttle. Dual point injectors seem to develop bad seals - the Wikipedia entry claims it's due to changes in fuel chemistry in the last few decades. Mine never got as bad as yours, but 30 mpg got to be a good tank. Even after I replaced the primary injector the car would flood out if left sitting more than two or three days- never did the secondary because it was my daily so it didn't sit enough (usually). When I replaced one they were stupidly expensive compared to a 'normal' Honda injector.

When I took the car down to VA I was condemned to the semi lane on any decent grade. Unless those engines are in top shape they just don't have the power to get up a mountain at speed- and even in top shape I wouldn't be confident. And they aren't nearly as efficient at WOT, which will help hurt your mileage more.

That fan switch is the same on any EF, and the detents can wear if the grease dries out. Get thee to a junk yard! Center shroud is four screws - one on each top corner and one on each side. Disconnect the ciggy plug and it's pretty easy to sort from there.

DaX's advise is all very good, but I would specifically start with the dizzy rotor screw once you look at the cap. They don't like to stay in depending on where they're sourced from *cough*autozone*cough*. In my experience stock D15B2s are pretty forgiving unless that rotor is loose. +1 on the compression test. If the valves are clattering pull the cover and check lash. It's a pain, but worth it.

Marcos Barrios

for the gas mileage and loss of power
the fuel filter is where you problem might be
check out my build thread if you want to see how its replaced

Marcos new work car 90 sedan

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Yep, I goofed and assumed it was an MPFI. scelestus is absolutely right...if the engine is DPFI, don't do #4 on my list.