$250 '90 Hatch Build! (AKA: College Kid Budget Build)
#101
Re: $250 '90 Hatch Build! (AKA: College Kid Budget Build)
So, in the past few months, I've:
- Considered selling the car
- Considered dumping thousands of dollars in the car
- Picked up a B20Z2 with a 5-speed 4WD trans
- Modded the windshield wipers to be JTCC-style (mono-wiper, for less weight and aErOdYnAmIcS)
- Planned a totally new front bumper and splitter design
- Planned out what I'm going to do with the rear bumper/exhaust
I have a ton of pictures but don't feel like dumping them right now haha.
Basically, my current plan is: FIX THE RUST. I realized looks mean a lot. Even if I'd like to say "psh its just a track rat I don't care if it looks bad," it still makes me feel embarrassed when I drive the car.
On top of that, the rust is legitimately dangerous.
So the thing I want to do ASAP (now that its finally warmer out) is take a cutting wheel to the rotting metal around the rear wheel wells. After that I'm either going to buy some overfenders or make my own.
There are some really really cool bosozoku-style ones that sweep down in front of the back wheels and look really rad, and would cover up a lot of my rot hahaha. (Or I should say: the empty space after cutting out the rot)
I'm also planning on going over all of that metal with POR-15, I've heard that's a recommended way to stop rust when installing overfenders/widebody kits.
After all of that?
Engine plan is to sell the B20Z2 with the 5-speed 4WD trans (since that trans is worth a lot more than I paid for the whole swap) and use the money to buy a nice B18 or B20 setup that I can drop into the car.
I think I'd like to keep it N/A for now. Why am I going B-series? Because my D-series is leaking coolant, burning oil, and probably needs to be rebuilt. I figured if I can pick up a whole B18/B20 swap for $700 I might as well just swap it instead and make more power.
What am I doing with my D16Y8 head and valve cover and exhaust and everything else I've bought? I think I'm going to sell it all to help fund this B-series swap. Plus I paid so little for it all that I can probably make a profit from selling it anyways.
So yeah! That's my big "stuff I'd like to do this summer" plan for the car. If anyone has any advice or comments on it, I'd love to hear them
You should see me posting here more! If not, feel free to harass me on Instagram (I have it linked to my forum account, you should be able to see it on my profile)
#104
Re: $250 '90 Hatch Build! (AKA: College Kid Budget Build)
when ever you get a project car like this to work on with tons of rust its really important to hit every nut with some penetrating oil right away so it can sit days or weeks before you need to turn that nut.. and hit it a few times while you work on the car.
when you have rusted panels or other parts you want to use a braided wire wheel on a 4 inch grinder and get rid of as much of the rust as you can.. use a hand brush to get in where the wire wheel cant get to.. remove most of the rust and then treat the area with rust converter. then I usually come back and wire wheel it again and rust converter again and then if you have a walmart near you ... in the hardware department they sell these large cans of what is labeled ... RustOlem Industrial paint ... its cheap.. get the black.. its a large 20 ounce can.. and hit the bare and converted metal areas to seal them off from moisture.. bare metal can't be left to the open air longer than 3 hours before it needs to be treated with metal prep or sanded.. so ... It is a really good way to do your brakes and backing plate.. for your calipers use caliper paint not regular paint.
but rust is not fun if you dont deal with it in a systematic way.. you will just end up with paint popping and having to do it over and over.
I would suggest Rust Mort by SEM or some other Phosphoric Acid Rust converter they work the best.
good luck with it.
when you have rusted panels or other parts you want to use a braided wire wheel on a 4 inch grinder and get rid of as much of the rust as you can.. use a hand brush to get in where the wire wheel cant get to.. remove most of the rust and then treat the area with rust converter. then I usually come back and wire wheel it again and rust converter again and then if you have a walmart near you ... in the hardware department they sell these large cans of what is labeled ... RustOlem Industrial paint ... its cheap.. get the black.. its a large 20 ounce can.. and hit the bare and converted metal areas to seal them off from moisture.. bare metal can't be left to the open air longer than 3 hours before it needs to be treated with metal prep or sanded.. so ... It is a really good way to do your brakes and backing plate.. for your calipers use caliper paint not regular paint.
but rust is not fun if you dont deal with it in a systematic way.. you will just end up with paint popping and having to do it over and over.
I would suggest Rust Mort by SEM or some other Phosphoric Acid Rust converter they work the best.
good luck with it.
#106
Honda-Tech Member
#107
Honda-Tech Member
Re: $250 '90 Hatch Build! (AKA: College Kid Budget Build)
well congrats on your new civic
and it sucks that the old owner gave up on it
but it happens
goodluck
and it sucks that the old owner gave up on it
but it happens
goodluck
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