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CRV 2nd Gen . When AC is ON , idle speed goes down and vibrates, as a result acceleration loss or delayed ... Any helpful inputs anyone please... thanks
CRV 2nd Gen . When AC is ON , idle speed goes down and vibrates, as a result acceleration loss or delayed ... Any helpful inputs anyone please... thanks
The idle speed will drop slightly but the idle air control should bump it up. Engine power drop is normal as the AC compressor uses a few horsepower to run. If your getting a chatter/rattle/knocking its probably a failing serpentine belt tensioner. So when the engine runs, compressor engage, listen at the tensioner...worse in gear usually ( automatic trans)...I had a new aftermarket one fail after 2 months so spent the money on a honda one...which is actually manufactured by Bando. If you want to, press down on the tensioner during its chatter with a screwdriver and you can stop the noise. Its not difficult to replace.
The idle speed will drop slightly but the idle air control should bump it up. Engine power drop is normal as the AC compressor uses a few horsepower to run. If your getting a chatter/rattle/knocking its probably a failing serpentine belt tensioner. So when the engine runs, compressor engage, listen at the tensioner...worse in gear usually ( automatic trans)...I had a new aftermarket one fail after 2 months so spent the money on a honda one...which is actually manufactured by Bando. If you want to, press down on the tensioner during its chatter with a screwdriver and you can stop the noise. Its not difficult to replace.
- yes its possible, but i tried to adjust the cable accelerator to just go up to 1000rpm (not normal idle speed) but still the same, only i can feel the small vibration when it goes down so fuel consumption increases. some idea went on. might be a fuel filter? or trottle body needs cleaning? ... no idea on these.
- yes its possible, but i tried to adjust the cable accelerator to just go up to 1000rpm (not normal idle speed) but still the same, only i can feel the small vibration when it goes down so fuel consumption increases. some idea went on. might be a fuel filter? or trottle body needs cleaning? ... no idea on these.
Ok. So if you press down on the tensioner the noise went away is that what you are saying? If that's the case then your tensioner is failing.
You cannot adjust the engine idle speed by any means. The engine idle speed is controlled by the ECU. The ECU will set the idle speed by use of the idle air control motor. If you try to monkey with the throttle cable all you're really doing is cracking the throttle open. The only thing that can be service in the throttle body is to remove the snorkel and open the throttle plate manually and take some carburetor cleaner and clean out the throttle bore. You may have to use some small brushes just to get the grunge from around the throttle plate. Also the idle air control motor can be removed and serviced and cleaned through the ports. If you're not familiar with this procedure you can look it up on YouTube you'll probably find something where somebody is cleaned the throttle body assembly. By doing this it'll help ensure that the computer can operate the engine idle properly. If that's your problem. But importantly I just like to know what you're trying to achieve; is the idle speed low or is it a rattle or both. The idler will rattle regards of idle speed when its failing. Off idle it might go silent... and what is the eng idle speed , compressor on vs. compressor off.
Also it's worth noting that by running your air conditioning compressor your fuel consumption will increase as it does take a few horsepower to run the compressor, the result of which is that you push harder on a throttle pedal to achieve the same acceleration result.. Thats Normal.
Ok. So if you press down on the tensioner the noise went away is that what you are saying? If that's the case then your tensioner is failing.
You cannot adjust the engine idle speed by any means. The engine idle speed is controlled by the ECU. The ECU will set the idle speed by use of the idle air control motor. If you try to monkey with the throttle cable all you're really doing is cracking the throttle open. The only thing that can be service in the throttle body is to remove the snorkel and open the throttle plate manually and take some carburetor cleaner and clean out the throttle bore. You may have to use some small brushes just to get the grunge from around the throttle plate. Also the idle air control motor can be removed and serviced and cleaned through the ports. If you're not familiar with this procedure you can look it up on YouTube you'll probably find something where somebody is cleaned the throttle body assembly. By doing this it'll help ensure that the computer can operate the engine idle properly. If that's your problem. But importantly I just like to know what you're trying to achieve; is the idle speed low or is it a rattle or both. The idler will rattle regards of idle speed when its failing. Off idle it might go silent... and what is the eng idle speed , compressor on vs. compressor off.
Also it's worth noting that by running your air conditioning compressor your fuel consumption will increase as it does take a few horsepower to run the compressor, the result of which is that you push harder on a throttle pedal to achieve the same acceleration result.. Thats Normal.
No, i did nothing to tensioner yet, i adjusted the gas cable just to get home coz the engine idle was dying when in traffic. tried with ac off , still the idle runs, but not stable , dancing up and down , vibrates and goes to rest.
No, i did nothing to tensioner yet, i adjusted the gas cable just to get home coz the engine idle was dying when in traffic. tried with ac off , still the idle runs, but not stable , dancing up and down , vibrates and goes to rest.
Ok, now i understand
What troubled codes are present?
Ok, now i understand
What troubled codes are present?
- just bought a elm reader obd2 and reads p0134 camshaft bank sensor 1 error, could this be an error or need to replace? some says if this sensors are damage the engine will not start. but in my case it starts well... have no idea.
- just bought a elm reader obd2 and reads p0134 camshaft bank sensor 1 error, could this be an error or need to replace? some says if this sensors are damage the engine will not start. but in my case it starts well... have no idea.
That is a oxygen sensor code not camshaft . It means that sensor ( Bank one , sensor one...so the first sensor) is non functional ( no activity) . The oxygen sensors responds to the oxygen content in the exhaust stream by giving out a small voltage signal in millivolts. The signal will go up and down depending on the amount of oxygen content in the exhaust. This tells the computer how much unburned fuel is going out the tailpipe so that it can trim the fuel delivery to the best for clean emissions and clean operation. An oxygen sensor is not an expensive item to replace but it is necessary for the engine to run properly.
That is a oxygen sensor code not camshaft . It means that sensor ( Bank one , sensor one...so the first sensor) is non functional ( no activity) . The oxygen sensors responds to the oxygen content in the exhaust stream by giving out a small voltage signal in millivolts. The signal will go up and down depending on the amount of oxygen content in the exhaust. This tells the computer how much unburned fuel is going out the tailpipe so that it can trim the fuel delivery to the best for clean emissions and clean operation. An oxygen sensor is not an expensive item to replace but it is necessary for the engine to run properly.
Im very sorry for the errand... its P0341 camshaft sensor bank 1 . im trying to attach a screen shot but no luck... this is the right code that obd2 reads ...
With a missing or erroneous CPS signal, the proper timing for spark is difficult and will cause a poor runner. .
hi... already changed the CPS sensors and clean the Trottle body, the idle improved from cold start 1700rpm, going down to 1000rpm, and 800rpm when hot. Engine Vibration still there. the Mechanic on Duty told me to check the possible causes ( wheww! ) could be timing chain, and sprockets worn and stretched out? Engine Check lamp is also present all the time and will not go out ... resetting thru laptop OBD2 did not work ....
Any more ideas? please help ....
same error code P0341 camshaft sensor bank 1 is appearing on laptop and handheld OBD2 scanners, mechanic analyzes these codes by parts.. like cam shaft bearings , chain and sprocket but no specific parts. (have no idea thou could be somewhere on these parts) - got new battery, spark plugs, radiator overhaul and new sensors, to downsize the vibration problems, but still present.... the startup rpm i think is not normal. usually it revs 1500rpm then down to 800rpm..
PO341 is for your camshaft and crankshaft being out of sync...in this case Sensor A which is Intake Cam out of phase with crankshaft. A failed Intake (A) is PO340. There's no Bank 1, Bank 1 is for something they would say for an oxygen sensor bank 1. Before you start jumping on the timing chain there's a few things that you should check. What could take things out of sync is if the camshaft VTC which is your Variable Timing for the intake Camshaft is inoperative. The variable timing of the camshaft is controlled by oil pressure. There's an oil pressure solenoid that will actuate the device.. there is a procedure to check the solenoid which I will include in the attachments. This should be done first. There is also a procedure to check the VTC actuator; it involves removal of the intake cam and dismantling the timing chain cover etc. If those check out and you confirm all of the connections at the terminals are solid for the solenoids and the sensors then the next step would be to have a look at the timing chain. Now you didn't say how many kilometres or miles are on this vehicle and generally the timing chains last the lifetime of the vehicle however they will "stretch" a nominal amount due to wear. There is an auto tensioner involved in this whole setup and assuming that it's functioning properly the timing chain slack shouldn't be an issue however if the tensioner has failed then you'll have excessive slop in the chain which could throw the cam timing out. If the tensioner fails and the chain is loose it can actually cause the camshafts to skip and a no start/bent valves issue happens. I would go after the VTC and verify its operation first. Clean engine oil is critical in these engines as any excess contaminants will cause the screens in the solenoids and the VTC actuator to get plugged up and malfunction This is what the Intake cam should look like at rest with the Crankshaft at TDC of the ignition stroke. Notice the 2 timing marks AND the VTC arrow and dot lining up.
PO341 is for your camshaft and crankshaft being out of sync. There's no Bank 1, Bank 1 is for something they would say for an oxygen sensor bank 1. Before you start jumping on the timing chain there's a few things that you should check. What could take things out of sync is if the camshaft VTC which is your Variable Timing for the Camshaft is inoperative. The variable timing of the camshaft is controlled by oil pressure. There's an oil pressure solenoid that will actuate the device.. there is a procedure to check the solenoid which I will include in the attachments. This should be done first. There is also a procedure to check the VTC actuator; it involves removal of the intake cam and dismantling the timing chain cover etc. If those check out and you confirm all of the connections at the terminals are solid for the solenoids and the sensors then the next step would be to have a look at the timing chain. Now you didn't say how many kilometres or miles are on this vehicle and generally the timing chains last the lifetime of the vehicle however they will "stretch" a nominal amount due to wear. There is an auto tensioner involved in this whole setup and assuming that it's functioning properly the timing chain slack shouldn't be an issue however if the tensioner has failed then you'll have excessive slop in the chain which could throw the cam timing out. If the tensioner fails and the chain is loose it can actually cause the camshafts to skip and a no start/bent valves issue happens. I would go after the VTC and verify its operation first. Clean engine oil is critical in these engines as any excess contaminants will cause the screens in the solenoids and the VTC actuator to get plugged up and DTC troubleshoot chart PO341 Incorrect phase detected Troubleshoot step 1 Step 1 continue VTC solenoid troubleshoot VTC continued
malfunction
Wow!... this is what i need, thank you so much mate, will take time to study these notes, glad you have all these very useful informations.
Having the manual is a must for me . I have 2 cars.. the Crv and a 98 Riviera. I have manuals for both cars that saves me allot of headaches and damaged trim peices. I do 99.9% of all of my own repairs. I'm rebuilding the supercharged engine in my Riv presently.
Good luck but check the VTC solenoid and the VTC oil strainer screen first. Start at the easy stuff!
Re: Engine Vibrates
Re: Engine Vibrates
