skyhighsami

My wife's CRV is 100% stock.....and slow. Would swapping the intake manifold add some power and use so which one? If there is power to be had by swapping intake manifold what about throttle body?? My wife's radiator exploded so while I have everything apart I would like to do what I can too increase power

Smackin

Hovecraft

First mod I did on my 2002 was an AEM dual-chamber intake, which noticeably increased power down low at WOT (sounds nice too). Then I added an RSX-S exhaust manifold which expanded the power band and gave me more top-end. Then a full 2 1/4 exhaust that further moved the powerband higher. If I was doing any other bolt-on it would be a TSX intake manifold. Takes a little modification, but it's been done. All the other intake manifold options steal torque from down low, and in our heavy rigs we need low-end torque more than a few extra hp at 6 or 7 grand. I probably would have done the TSX manifold by now, but I was planning a full K24A2 swap for the high mileage A1 (243,XXX and still ripping). Unfortunately, I have since moved on to other projects.

Note, my 2002 is an AWD manual transmission.

-Hove

skyhighsami

My problem is our CRV is an automatic. I have an Eaton M90 from a GM 3800. Since I modify everything I own from my daily driver 06 GMC Yukon that I've lowered and an building a LS2 for it that should make a conservative 400whp. To a 2006 Trailblazer SS that I have a 416 ci LS3 that makes around 550 whp NA with every suspension upgrade available that I build for my youngest daughter. Then I am also building a Silverado for my oldest daughter with really nice suspension, 14 bolt rear end, either a bored and stroked 5.3 block to 383 ci or a LSX Block or Dart block displacing 388 ci. With twin 66/73 with .91 AR divided T4. With the fuel system, transmission, driveshaft, rear end and turbos to support 1200 whp turned up around 850 or so whp under normal circumstances. Our CRV is my wife's daily and she doesn't want to replace it. It is lowered with just coil springs on 18x8.5" Montegi with a 235 tire, slotted rotors, EBC pads, and stainless lines. If my wife wanted to dial it in more I would gladly get some multi piston calipers, coilovers, sway bars, much more aggressive pads, much lighter 2 piece rotors with aluminum hats. Swap the K24 for a Frankenstein with a M90 supercharger I have from a GM 3800 Series II. Problem is there is no way to tune the CRV since it's an automatic. If you could control the split front and rear or even disengage the front diff making it a full time RWD making the CRV and it's AWD more of an active center section like a STI WRX or some of the Evos. No one can say a CRV that makes 400-550 driving just the rear wheels would be boring. Plus they're cheap enough modifying them and making them special wouldn't break the bank. I think they're cheap to insure and relatively safe, a young driver should love it

Hovecraft

I like your philosophy, and your stable. I have a rear end from a 2011 Element in my boosted 98 CRV that is supposed to engage quicker.

https://www.crvownersclub.com/forums...fo-inside.html

Also this is an interesting thread.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...nside-2991272/

Also PM sent.

skyhighsami

Thank you Hovecraft, I will read over those threads. My wife loves her CRV and won't entertain the idea of getting something new until the kids start daily driving it because the Silverado and Trailblazer I built for them will be driven only for special occasions.

PolkaSauce

I realize this thread is nearly a year dead, but hopefully can still get a response. Getting ready to replace my catalytic, and figured might as well do up the whole exhaust while I'm under there. Planning to do a resonator delete, run 2.25 piping from the cat, to a flowmaster super 10. I like that they're more throaty than fart can, at least from what I've seen on other 4bangers. Regarding the rsx-s exhaust manifold, I found one for around $60, and was about to pull the trigger till I noticed that the outlet is angled a bit, whereas I believe the stock crv manifold is more pointing straight down if I'm not mistaken. Did you have to do any extensive modifying to get this to fit like stock?

Hovecraft

You are correct. It isn't a direct swap. However, I had a custom exhaust made at the same time as the header install, so I had my exhaust guy make the corrections on the header and it seemed to be no problem for him. I don't own the 2002 anymore, or I would try and get some pictures for you.

-Hovecraft

PolkaSauce

Hey no worries, thanks for the reply! The minute I saw it I figured it wasn't going to be a direct bolt on. I'll talk to a few shops to get an idea of what can be done. If it wasn't too difficult for him I'm sure the shop I take it to can figure out a simple solution as well. Thanks again!