Yet Another Seafoam...
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Yet Another Seafoam...
OK im tryin out seafoam tomm and i was wondering wats the best method 1/3 in each? if so do u do 1/3 in vacuum while car is running then shut car off 1/3 in crankcase and 1/3 in gas then then go for the drive?
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Re: Yet Another Seafoam... (demitrix)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by demitrix »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK im tryin out seafoam tomm and i was wondering wats the best method 1/3 in each? if so do u do 1/3 in vacuum while car is running then shut car off 1/3 in crankcase and 1/3 in gas then then go for the drive?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats sounds like a plan. The car will shut itself off after smelling the seafoam, and let it sit for 5 minutes before you run it.
Thats sounds like a plan. The car will shut itself off after smelling the seafoam, and let it sit for 5 minutes before you run it.
#3
Re: Yet Another Seafoam... (f1z1c)
You actually dont want the car to shut its self off. Thats a good way to screw some stuff up. Have someone hold the RPM up and pour it in slowly then turn the car off after you get it all in.
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Re: Yet Another Seafoam... (10cents)
or if your sneaky you can hold the throttle with one hand and hold the bottle with the other and so on... is there a write up on this yet? with some pictures...
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alright cause im kinda weary of doin it but after all the good things ive read it seems like its worth it plus im doin an oil change tomm also i so figured wth why not
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Re: Yet Another Seafoam... (hondainspired)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondainspired »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> is there a write up on this yet? with some pictures... </TD></TR></TABLE>
search owns you.
anyway, http://www.diyimports.com/seafoam.html
search owns you.
anyway, http://www.diyimports.com/seafoam.html
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Re: (demitrix)
Yeah, that is one of my few conserns about putting it in the gas tank. If I put it in my gas tank and change the oil and such, do I have to worry about it getting into the oil again?
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Re: (DOHC4life)
if you want to clean you fuel injectors, fuel lines and what not you have to put it in the gas tank and it will not hurt anything, you could actually run your car on this stuff. Just add according to directions, its a fuel stabilizer as well so people put this in rv, boats and such and store it for long periods of time then come time to run it you don't drain 400 gallons of fuel out of a fishing boat or rv you drive it til you need more gas. It's bee around for 20+ years so its proven not to be harmful. Once you change your oil after applying to your crankcase you will not need to change again until your next due oil change. adding it to your im to clean combustion chamber carbon and varnish build up or adding to your fuel tank will not require another oil change. If it manages to leak into your crankcase you have other problems that seafoam will not correct.
Modified by dohcdelsol93 at 8:32 AM 10/16/2004
Modified by dohcdelsol93 at 8:32 AM 10/16/2004
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Re: (egcoupe94)
I wouldn't let is shut down the car. It could possibly hydro lock but I would shut it off immediatly after feeding it into the IM and let the sea foam work it's magic for 10 or so min.
#16
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Re: (colombian linx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by colombian linx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard it breaks down your oil</TD></TR></TABLE>
it does, thats why you have to change your oil afterwards
it does, thats why you have to change your oil afterwards
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Re: (dohcdelsol93)
You can let the engine stall after the seafoam is in, it just does that because your seafoam has a different flash point than gas. You have to limit the rate at which the engine sucks the seafoam to avoid hydrolocking/flooding and wetting the sparks. When your restarting after letting it soak in, you have to push the gas all the way for a while so it doesnt stall. YMMV.
.
This article mentions top-engine cleaning fluid (probly like seafoam's naptha) in mazdas, from http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s004_93.html
1. Operate engine to normal operating temperature then turn engine off.
2. To inject the cleaner into the engine, use the canister purge vacuum port. This will allow even distribution of the cleaner. Refer to pages 3 of 10 through 9 of 10 for the vacuum port locations.
CAUTION: The Mazda Top Engine Cleaner must be fed into the engine through the correct vacuum line and at a feed rate not less than 1.5 minutes per half container with an orifice (P/N E5B6 13 986) in the feeding hose. A faster feed rate may result in liquid accumulation in a cylinder resulting in hydraulic lock-up and engine damage.
CAUTION:
*
Do not use the pcv hose. Engine damage may occur due to excessive cleaner entering the engine.
*
Do not use a vehicle vacuum hose. Supply your own feeding tube and install orifice (P/N E5B613 986).
*
Attach a pair of locking pliers (Vise grips) to the feeding tube to prevent suction while the engine is cranking.
3. Place the other end of the hose in the container of top engine cleaner.
4. Restart engine.
WARNING: An excessive amount of exhaust smoke will be produced in the next procedure. Use an exhaust hose to vent the smoke.
5. Allow idle to stabilize. Then feed the cleaner into the engine by releasing the pliers while idling up and down (between 1500 - 3000 rpm) a few times until 1/2 of the cleaner is used. At this point, let the idle drop. The engine should stall. If it doesn't, turn engine off.
6. Let the vehicle sit for at least one hour or up to 24 hours. The chemical's cleaning ability increases the longer it is allowed to saturate the carbon.
7. To flush the remaining carbon from the engine, repeat steps 2 to 5 using the remaining 1/2 of the cleaner. DO NOT let the engine stall. Increase the idle up and down between 1500-2000 rpm.
8. Remove your feeding tube and reconnect the original line.
9. Take the vehicle on a 3 or 4 mile performance (i.e. full RPM range) test drive to remove any remaining cleaner or carbon.
NOTE: After verifying the noise has been eliminated, change the oil, oil filter and raise the engine RPM several times to circulate new oil throughout the engine.
As a preventative measure, use a known gas treatment additive to prevent repeat carbon accumulation (example: Chevron Techron).
.
This article mentions top-engine cleaning fluid (probly like seafoam's naptha) in mazdas, from http://www.miata.net/garage/tsb/s004_93.html
1. Operate engine to normal operating temperature then turn engine off.
2. To inject the cleaner into the engine, use the canister purge vacuum port. This will allow even distribution of the cleaner. Refer to pages 3 of 10 through 9 of 10 for the vacuum port locations.
CAUTION: The Mazda Top Engine Cleaner must be fed into the engine through the correct vacuum line and at a feed rate not less than 1.5 minutes per half container with an orifice (P/N E5B6 13 986) in the feeding hose. A faster feed rate may result in liquid accumulation in a cylinder resulting in hydraulic lock-up and engine damage.
CAUTION:
*
Do not use the pcv hose. Engine damage may occur due to excessive cleaner entering the engine.
*
Do not use a vehicle vacuum hose. Supply your own feeding tube and install orifice (P/N E5B613 986).
*
Attach a pair of locking pliers (Vise grips) to the feeding tube to prevent suction while the engine is cranking.
3. Place the other end of the hose in the container of top engine cleaner.
4. Restart engine.
WARNING: An excessive amount of exhaust smoke will be produced in the next procedure. Use an exhaust hose to vent the smoke.
5. Allow idle to stabilize. Then feed the cleaner into the engine by releasing the pliers while idling up and down (between 1500 - 3000 rpm) a few times until 1/2 of the cleaner is used. At this point, let the idle drop. The engine should stall. If it doesn't, turn engine off.
6. Let the vehicle sit for at least one hour or up to 24 hours. The chemical's cleaning ability increases the longer it is allowed to saturate the carbon.
7. To flush the remaining carbon from the engine, repeat steps 2 to 5 using the remaining 1/2 of the cleaner. DO NOT let the engine stall. Increase the idle up and down between 1500-2000 rpm.
8. Remove your feeding tube and reconnect the original line.
9. Take the vehicle on a 3 or 4 mile performance (i.e. full RPM range) test drive to remove any remaining cleaner or carbon.
NOTE: After verifying the noise has been eliminated, change the oil, oil filter and raise the engine RPM several times to circulate new oil throughout the engine.
As a preventative measure, use a known gas treatment additive to prevent repeat carbon accumulation (example: Chevron Techron).
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Re: (f1z1c)
its all so a good idea to replace ur plugs after doin this it fouls them out if u notice that the white will have a red tint to it from the additives well thats just my 2 cents
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Re: (93_hatch)
you will not have to change your plugs after using sea foam unless they are scheduled for a change, sea foam is both a cleaner and a stabilizer. Would anyone ever buy a fuel stabilizer that fouled out your spark plugs?
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Re: (seafoam / brake vacuum- manifold) ?
*
Do not use a vehicle vacuum hose. Supply your own feeding tube and install orifice (P/N E5B613 986).
*
This is in dochdelsol93's MIATA maintenance post (above) ....doesn't this contradict all of the other posts about the using the brake booster / manifold inlet for seafoam ?
Do not use a vehicle vacuum hose. Supply your own feeding tube and install orifice (P/N E5B613 986).
*
This is in dochdelsol93's MIATA maintenance post (above) ....doesn't this contradict all of the other posts about the using the brake booster / manifold inlet for seafoam ?
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Re: (seafoam / brake vacuum- manifold) ? (alotawatts)
it says on the back of the can to feed through brake booster line, as long as your feeding 1/3 of a pt at a time i'd say you'll probably be ok. When in doubt follow the directions.
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