TheHater

My car barely has 800 Miles on it and its overheating. I usually let the car kick back after a while to let it cool down ...so I was putting the autolock on and I was seeing how much gas I have....and im like oh im 3/4 so im cool ...but its the tempature im like WTF I think to my self oh ill let it cool down to see what happens and the car get hotter almost to the H and thats were I turn it off. Its about 1am so I chill for like thirty minutes to let it cool down and at 130 I get a extension cord and my lamp ...I expect for a hose to be broken but no, I expect no antifreeze to be there ...but its all there ...Im driving my moms X right know and iM scared to ride in my car so I let my dad borrow it and take it to the dealer. What do you think is my problem. Oh right before this happened I was hitting high RPM's 8200 . But only to second gear and thats about 60...oh one more thing my batter terminal was about to fall off. Could this cause a car to overheat?

Spade

Clogged radiator or bad thermostat.

Or, When they replaced your block they may have put the water pump on improperly.

TheHater

and these are trained technicians...btw my Thermost sensor was replaced and I was getting a 2ndery o2 code.

poison

Is it overheating by sitting there idle over a period of time, or is it while running the engine?

TheHater

30 seconds sitting there idiling...tops

slowdx

if its not the thermostat...drain radiator and refill and then if not its GOTTA be the water pump. Sounds exactly liek what happened to my gsr motor.

acydphryck

your damn radiator fan isn't coming on....that's why it's overheating, willis. this happened to me already...check to see if your fan comes on...i bet it's not coming on at all...

TheHater

If your batter is disconnected will the fan still come on?

Dr. EKology

Did you even bother to break it in??? 800 miles and reving to cut-off cannot be good.


[Modified by EKology, 2:56 PM 1/23/2003]

HatchSteer

yeah broken radiator. It happened to my jeep.

TheHater

Yup I was real careful the first 7hundred ...and once at 8 I startd smashing...this was only my thrid time.

B18EG6

Since I can use allll the help I can get with my overheating problem, Ill try to help you.

Check to see if the fan is coming on, like thay said. Also check to feel if the lower radiator hose is hot or cold.

heres my problem https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=392892

vivid02

You did not even break the motor in yet and you were abusing it. Did not even get its break in oil change? Can be a number of things. Fan not comming on is one. Thermostat is another. Water pump is another. Fan temp switch is another. Thank god you have a warrenty because it seem like you don't know much about engines.

TheHater

Im not real sure but my brothers B18c5 was riden 200 Miles before its first Pull and 16000 Miles and his compression is still at 220

Evs-One

pull off the plug on top of the radiator fan and run 2 wires directly from the battery to those 2 terminals. If the fan comes on, check the relay fuse. Could possibly be bad. If the temp doesn't sky rocket when moving, it could be either the fan or the water pump. Have you tried revving the engine to around 3000 and holding it there when it starts to over heat?? Try that. You could have a faulty H20 pump. Feel upper and lower radiator hoses as well. Make sure both are warm.

B18EG6

Back to the topic though.

Feel the rad hoses...are they hot?

Check the fan fuse.

Check the fan motor. (apply 12v directly to the wires)

Check the fan relay (replace)

Check for air in coolant/enough coolant period.

<FONT COLOR="blue">edit: or I could type 2 minutes slower...drats</FONT>


[Modified by B18EG6, 6:50 PM 1/23/2003]

poison

No, that is not the issue.

He stated it starts over heating after 30 seconds tops. This means it's a water flowing problem within the radiator, motor or water pump is not pumping fast enough to cool off the water within the system.

slowdx is the only one who has a point.

I drive around with an H22 and don't even have a radiator fan and I never overheat.

Why? Because the Radiator Fan's purpose is if wind resistance against the radiator isn't cold enough, or isn't cooling off the water fast enough, the fan turns on.

I plan on replacing the fan so I can race, but that isn't my point.

Most circumstances the fan comes on is under extreme conditions on the motor (racing constantly), the weather (summer time, for example), or sitting idle (with no wind resistance to the radiator) for approximately 4-5 minutes.

I do not believe there is a problem with the hoses, radiator or anything of it's functionality. Since you are not leaking any water, then it seems as though everything is sealed and almost in working order. The problem is the WATER FLOW.

You need to do a complete flush of the system.

To do this, completely drain ALL water from the engine, heater hoses/heater core (make sure the heater valve is open), and radiator.

Get a hose and put it in where the thermostat goes. Turn on the hose and completely flush out the system making sure water comes out the other side.

Also do this to the radiator. Let everything flush out for approximately 5-10 minutes.

Then go out and buy new coolant (I would strongly recommened you get 50/50 of water & coolant). If not purchase regular coolant and blend 50/50 with water and coolant yourself. Get a new thermostat at 170°-ish degrees. And also purchase a coolant/water superflush bottle that's at auto parts stores. You will want to follow the instructions on the Super Flush, as different ones do different things.

Once you have done that, install the new thermostat, make sure your heater valve is once again, open as well as all grounds (the thermostat ground in particular) are connected.

Turn on your car. Once it's started, start pouring in coolant into the radiator (where the radiator cap is), and continue filling up with both 50/50 water and coolant.

You will want to continue to do this until the motor is fully warmed up and coolant level good (as in radiator being full of coolant/water). Also make sure there is no/if not, barely any air bubbles coming up from the top of the radiator. You will want to squeeze the hoses sometimes to get the proper levels and making sure the whole cooling system is full of coolant/water.

Put the radiator cap on. And take her for a drive as normal.

If it continues to over heat, verify once again you did everything I have said above. And if so, you will most likely need a new water pump. And in doing so, you might as well replace the timing belt as well.

If you STILL continue to have problems over heating, you MAY need a new headgasket -- as flowing issues may be blocked, or carbon buildup is on the headgasket.

Hope that helps.

TheHater

This guy right here may have a goooooood point ....I was praticing launching at this Lot and I was reving like at 4500 for a while waiting for the light to turn green....Thats the only thing Ive done different ...other times I just take off.

Evs-One

yeah. Other symptoms of overheating could be ignition timing, but that's not going to make you sky rocket. If you rev and your temp goes down, it could be that your timing belt is loose, or a faulty water pump. Should be an easy fix and under warranty, so I wouldn;t worry at all. JUst get it in ASAP

poison

Ignition is a damn good point. I've seen this problem as well

owen_the_soyboy

way to break it down man, good post

Evs-One

did you figure anything out yet??

TheHater

My dad has it at the dealer so I dont really know yet

PS...Im pimping my moms x5 ...damn you should see the stares I get from the girlies at school...I feel good today ..yes I do


[Modified by TheHater, 1:15 AM 1/24/2003]

Evs-One

oh, ok. Why did you get a new engine? I wouldn't worry about anything if it's under warranty, but it is good to see what might be the problem

TheHater

5lbs of Compression on piston number 1...that and my nitrous solenoid stayed open