EastCoastRust

Hey guys quick question, was attempting to change a wheel stud on the front of my 95 cx hatch and once I got the caliper off I went to take the big nut in the middle to take the rotor off and it has to be pried open in order to unscrew it(odv). Anyway someone put a srewdriver in it and broke the tip off inside so now I cant unscrew it at all. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

JuggerNaut-CTR

You don't need to take the axle nut off to remove the rotor...just the 2 smaller Phillips screws

Joshka89

A good dremel will get rid of that screwdriver tip

JuggerNaut-CTR

It's ok bud, we know that someone is you

fragmare

Be prepared to have to use a hammer drill or an impact driver to get those rotor retaining screws out. They're annoying.

sleepyaccord96

LOL i thought the SAME DAMN thing!!!!!


besides that...can we see pics of the said screwdriver tip to determine its location where it is lodged in??

also like juggerman said you need to remove the 2 philips screws if they are even there. i will post pics to help

sleepyaccord96

theres the two screws you need to remove

sleepyaccord96

notice how they grinded the edge to make it go in. you must do this to make it go in WITHOUT HAVING TO REMOVE THE HUB

if you are UNABLE to grind the edge down on your 610-269 (wheel stud) then be prepared to remove the wheel hub

sleepyaccord96

another example

sleepyaccord96

does anyone notice how cool i am with MSpaint??? yes i know i know im good

EastCoastRust

lol I just bought the car a few days ago and he tried to fix it quick before he sold it too me and then I found out about it today, and yea the two screws are out but the peice is just lodge into the space between the nut where you have to bend it. this is the first time im attempting to change the studs and im kind of new to this

EastCoastRust

I seen that before, I just got a few off a junkyar car for replacement but is there any you can buy that you wouldnt have to grind down? or would you have to remove the hub?

jbpnoman

OP, are you talking about the axle nut?

Get a breaker bar and a 3 foot length of lead pipe. Soak the nut in WD40 or whatever rust penetrant you feel like using. You just need to put more torque behind it. When I was still working in a shop, we had a long lead pipe welded onto a breaker bar for just that reason.

sleepyaccord96

If there is something i do not know i am not aware of removing an axle nut and or the cv axle in order to change stud.... if the edge is grinded down there is no need to remove the hub/and or bearing.

jbpnoman

Some people don't want to cut up their studs. There's the easy way, and there's the right way. Chopping the stud is the easy way.

S2BumpsticksGSR

Air (pneumatic) tools- making wrenching easier since a LONG time ago. Best of luck OP.
Edit: OP I've installed multiple studs that were ground in one spot to clear hub on install. No issues to report with doing so. If you choose to go this route, use a lug nut to pull it through by tightening it (w/rotor off)
Pulling the hub apart is a bit of a mission involving a hydraulic press and pulling the entire knuckle off of the vehicle.

sleepyaccord96

lol...im outta this thread not down for bs today.

EastCoastRust

Alright sounds good, hopefully Ill give er a try once the weather clears up, sadly the garage has my uncles nova in it right now and he wont pull it out when its raining. One more question, the stud im switching is just stripped its not broken, is it worth changing or would it be easier to get it rethreaded? :s sorry f the questions seem noobish but again, im new to most of it

fragmare

Believe it or not you can actually BUY studs from the parts store that have part of the head already missing so it'll fit through the hub. No grinding, no hub removal. Amazing. P_P

sleepyaccord96

no do not run a die on it (re threading)

replace it.

sleepyaccord96

i know but some people refer to installing a stud that is grinded (the easy way not the right way)

so i assume installing a stud made that way would be considered wrong too..not in my book. It does not effect the function of the stud whatsoever... i refuse to pull the hub just for a stud, completely unnecessary.. i agree with fragmare

jbpnoman

Someone doesn't understand what heating metal does to the structure and rigidity of said medal...

If the piece is made that way, that's (probably) fine. If you go doing it yourself, good chances you're using a Dremel, and you aren't using cutting fluid or coolant of any sort. That can damage the metal. No, you can't see the damage, unless you have a rather expensive, specialized microscope for metallurgy. Yes, that damage can cause premature failure. No, I am not going to sit here and explain the finer points of metallurgy to you.

sleepyaccord96

^ you are a lost cause man...... your wrong!

actually ya know what? if heat hurts it soooo bad then how do they survive when they are in place and get fckin hot as f from using the breaks... so your telling me that heat hurts the metal?! c'mon man let's be real and stop being a chode.

i can guarantee you the wheel stud gets much hotter and gets very hot over a long period of time from being on the vehicle for years than it ever will by grinding 3-4mm off the shoulder...

I don't use a dremel either...

For you i recommend goin to a machine shop and have them cut it for you since your such a girl about everything.

JuggerNaut-CTR

You two are friends....

jbpnoman

I'm not going to sit here and explain advanced metallurgy to you. There's a huge difference between bit heat and brake heat, both in temperature, as well as heat up and cool down time. I can tell you, from experience, that the tensile strength of a DIY-chopped stud is lower than that of a non-modified stud.