EJeff8

I'm running a mini me Y8 with 127 HP stock. I'm looking to get a full bumper AEM cold air, a 70mm BBK TB and a matching BBK Intake Mani. What HP would I be looking at with this setup? Me and my friend think maybe 30? But we're worried I'd be taking away too much front air pressure. I don't think it'd be too much of an issue though. Also, if I did this, would I have to increase fuel consumption at all? Like bigger injectors or colder spark plugs? I was thinking of running iridiums with a setup like that but maybe it'd be a little overkill?

300whpej

im thinking with a y8, 2.5" intake, 70mm TB and IM...untuned 10-15whp honestly. you have to take into account the y8 stock had 127hp at the crank which is about 110-115whp. then account for the fact the motor is about 12 years old, with mileage, maybe 100whp. the tb and im are gonna hurt you more than help untuned. then also maintenance history, recent tune-up, exhaust size, humidity, elevation, compression, etc the number gets lower and lower.

so my final guess-timate is 115-120whp

EJeff8

Well, my block was swapped new at 94,000, I'm at 121xxx now. And it's 10 years old. So, you think I should just go with a full cold air? And then should I still try iridiums?

300whpej

mileage is semi-low, but i still wouldnt expect to see much more than mid 120's at the wheel. a tune will allow a few more ponies to escape, but i cant see the benefit of spending ~$300 for ~15whp

98civdx

The 127 is at the crank not wheels. I doubt you will see anything more then 10hp with said mods, singles really dont make crap for power untill boosted or built.

Friend had a single full bolt ons and tuned made 105 at the wheels. it was a y8.

B18C5-EH2

The throttle body and IM are a complete waste of time and money IMO. Without a tunable OBD1 ECU you'd be wasting money, and likely screwing with th a/f ratio enough to start throwing dreaded OBD2 engine codes such as "System too lean bank 1" etc.

Even with a tunable OBD1 ECU the IM and TB are not where I'd start. I'd be looking into a good intake (AEM is good), header, and exhaust and also get a jumper harness and have a P28 tuned on a dyno.

CivicSpoon

^ +1 Unless you have a K-series or J-series engine swapped in there, you don't gain much of anything from bolt on parts. I'd even go as far to say that you probably gained 5hp (at the top end) max. Add a header and a free flowing exhaust, and you might hit a 10hp increase over your stock power. At least not with a tune, which would be pretty pointless IMO, without some major modifications verses cost. Think about it this way. A Jackson Racing supercharger bolted on to that engine, by Jackson Racing's own info, will give you around 180hp. So simple basic bolt on parts isn't going to get you to 157hp, or anywhere close to it.

Basic bolts on like that won't need anything special, when it comes to added fuel or more expensive spark plugs. If anything, doing a full tune up will help you with power more (new stock spark plugs, new stock plug wires, fuel filter, new air filter, etc).

If you really want more power you're going to have to do some internal work, or go the forced induction route (nitrous, supercharger or turbocharger). It depends on how much power you're looking to get.

hoffmanb16

ya when I had my first civic and I was modding a d16 with intake, exausht header it was not really about the numbers, I did it for fun and it sounded better .

try not to worry about the numbers just mod for fun.

EJeff8

Right, right. I'm not looking for track HP, just something to chirp at a stop light. I have a 2 1/4 Greddy exhaust with stock headers. Me and my friends think that without FI, headers will just drop my back pressure though. I was thinking of maybe a test pipe? I was thinking it'd give me a nice sound now that the damn Cat would be scrap and would assume it might help with back pressure if the headers stay stock and don't think it would kill my MPG's too much. I still might do a full cold air, just for personal preference and aesthetics. It also sounds kind of beastly when you stomp it. I mean, I could see the IM being kind of a waste, but would a Cold air/ TB combo be bad too? Just possible ideas for a nice street car... and maybe something to try to pull on my friend's Stealth (I'll sit toward his back bumper by 5th haha)

jdm_ekcivic

Don't waste your time. Either swap something better in, or boost the crap out of the D.

EJeff8

Also good possibilities. I was thinking hard on boosting but I accidentally mentioned it to my girl and she was (of course) not understanding why I'd dedicate a few paychecks to my engine bay. If I'd boost, I'd just go with an ebay turbo around 12 pounds. It'd be all I'd need. But once again, if I boost should I stay with a stock TB or pop in a test pipe also?

23LX23

What about getting a high performance crank pulley? Would that work?

EJeff8

Never thought about it. Could you give me some specs on what it could do, price range and installation difficulty?

23LX23

Im actually on the same boat as you... Trying to add a little power to my y8... Seems as the crank pulley adds about 10-15% hp... The company is known as Unorthodox, check assaulttech.com they have them in stock...

nomoshing

teehee

Deetz

what a bunch of crap....welcome to 2whp lol

stevej1

yeah spend that money on a turbo kit. greddy makes a carb legal one for pretty cheap...ohhh yeah peggy hill!!!

95DC2GS-R

boost it. seriously.

you are not going to see much gain in throwing bolt ons to a stock single cam, just boost it.

if you decide to go with an ebay turbo kit, expect to replace the turbo, the wastegate and probably the turbo manifold if it's not a cast log manifold. with a set of injectors, switch to OBD1 and have a tuner street and dyno tune the car. you will make over 200whp on a bone stock motor and it will run for a long time if you take care of it

EG_H22.

id either boost it or just do a b swap ? more power and more oportunity to start tuning there after

B18C5-EH2

This might take a while...

What do you mean "track" HP? I'm not being an *** here, but what's the likelihood you'll be going to any "track" - do you mean dragstrip? HP is HP regardless of where you're applying it.

Well then you don't need 3hp worth of bolt-ons - you need a good strong CLUTCH and not so sticky tires. If you're really concerned about "chirping" try running some 13'' tires overinflated. You'll be laying black marks shifting in second in no time!

It's header - no S on the end. Your engine has one exhaust manifold/header. Currently if you're stock it's an exhaust manifold, not a header.

This is old school early Honda modding talk. People used to talk about this mythical "you need back pressure" stuff before people started actually building nice headers (see it's plural if you're talking about multiples) and actually hitting dynos to tune and see results. Also most FI set-ups will replace your exhaust manifold anyways, unless of course you go supercharger.

Not that the back pressure theory is a good one, but if it were then your test pipe theory would just have screwed the whole "you need some back pressure" idea. If you need to pass an emissions test yearly then a test pipe is a bad idea. It also makes the car sound raspier.

The CAI is the best mod of all the ones you've mentioned. You just really need to watch out for water puddles and whatnot when its raining. My wife drove her B16A2-powered 1992 hatch for about 6 years with a CAI with no issues because she knew to push the clutch in and coast through puddles. I've had a CAI on my 1992 B18C5 hatch for 8 years now, and I had one on my hatch before that for 4 years - never a single problem.

BUT!

I've seen about a dozen hydrolocked, bent rodded engines because people were careless when driving in hard rain with a CAI. Be careful.

I've been working at the same Honda/Acura only shop for 10 years now, and for the first 5 years we were seeing a TON of high performance, aftermarket parts on a lot of different engines. TB/IMs on SOHC engines were always a huge waste. You can try it, and your BUTT DYNO will probably lie to you like they always do, but if you were to dyno before and after I'd bet you money the results would be completely disappointing.

Boost.

or

Swap.

Those are the only two ways you can easily beat down your pal's Stealth. Unless of course you know how to tear down and build an engine. Then there's all kinds of great things to do such as higher CR pistons, a good cam, send the head out for P&P work, etc.

Also a quick idea:

If you want to make the car a bit quicker AND get better mpg why not lose some weight in the car? Who needs a spare tire and tool kit these days when we have cell phones? A header not only can add minimal power, but it also sheds unwanted weight from that heavy cast iron stock manifold.

Pullies are 100% GARBAGE on a street D series. It will cause undercharging for the alternator, if you have A/C it won't cool as well, and there is no harmonic dampener ring inside of it like an OE pulley. A D series isn't balanced as well as some of the other engines that people can get away with running light weight pullies. Also if you're going to do it, do it right and get a one rib pulley that deletes the function of P/S and A/C.



The horsepower claims are 100% bogus. It frees up the revs a bit, but remember that if the engine revs up more freely it also drops revs more freely, meaning you have to shift quicker as not to lose too much rpm when upshifting. Heavier flywheels and crank pulleys store more energy, thus they allow revs to stay up when shifting.

To the OP:

You remind me of me back in 1995. This is not an insult. I can tell you're somewhat new to this, and you're doing the right thing by asking questions. It's better to ask BEFORE you do certain mods. If you've taken anything I've said offensively I'm not meaning for it to be offensive. I want to be more informative than anything. Try to learn from others' mistakes and poor decisions. Plenty of people have tried some of the mods being discussed here (TB, IM, Unorthodox pulley, etc.) only to find it was a waste of time and money.

EJeff8

Yeah, I've been glued to FI, and the only thing I'd get would be the turbo. I have websites for the manifold, p28 and such.

When I said the track and street chirping stuff, I meant I didn't need something that's pushing 250-300 whp. Between 150-200 is what I want. Which seems the only thing that'll get me there is boost.

I'm in an awesome "no E - check" county. And would it be a good ides to try the test pipe if I'm boosted? Just trying to get the mental kinks out of a boost setup, yah know?

HondaPartsHero

http://www.importtuner.com/powerpage...ges/index.html

header + throttle body + drop in K&N + Exhaust = 11hp, 6.1tq ($1600.00)


http://www.importtuner.com/powerpage..._ex/index.html

header + exhaust + SRI = 12hp ($1300.00)

http://www.importtuner.com/powerpage..._ex/index.html

header + intake + exhaust + belt removal = 14hp ($820.00)

http://www.importtuner.com/powerpage...tic/index.html

(auto car) header + intake + exhaust = 8.8hp ($1000.00)

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/01...kit/index.html

D16Z6 + turbo kit (6psi) = 61hp, 40tq ($2100.00)

EJeff8

Wow, 61 Hp with 6 boost? I think I know which route I'm going haha.

EJeff8

Can someone direct me to a website for OBD swaps and ecus other than Hondata? Also, should I go with a test pipe when I boost? I've also seen from an ECU website I can't find anymore, that I could've bought a new tuned p28. Would that suffice my tuning or should I still take it to a dyno?

EJeff8

Or maybe I can just use the short ram I own now and add a hood scoop to the lower left corner of my hood. I have the functionality of a cold air minus the worries of puddles and lag time. And if I ever do end up boosting, I have the scoop already in place for the filter.