What type of paint would hold up on suspension parts (LCA, hub, UCA, fork, etc)
02-28-2007, 12:45 PM
#1
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What type of paint would hold up on suspension parts (LCA, hub, UCA, fork, etc)
Mine are all rusted and I hate how it looks. I tried with some type of metal primer then paint but it chips like it's its job. What is a really durable paint? I was thinking about trying the roll on paint that people use for $50 paint job (Rustoleum). THanks
02-28-2007, 12:48 PM
#2
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Re: What type of paint would hold up on suspension parts (fizix_skate)
I used that $5 Duplicolor GOLD spray paint from autozone on my LCAs and its still good. No primer, **** I didn't even take them off the car haha
02-28-2007, 12:57 PM
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I used home depot rust oleum paint, and I didnt even clean the ****. The paint on my car chips off easier than the paint on my suspension, WTF!!!!
ive also noticed this on other things aswell. I have a bumper that i didnt prime, clean to well, but the paint will NOT come off? then i have another bumper which was profesionally painted, looks like a cow
ive also noticed this on other things aswell. I have a bumper that i didnt prime, clean to well, but the paint will NOT come off? then i have another bumper which was profesionally painted, looks like a cow
02-28-2007, 04:13 PM
#4
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Rustoleum spray or roll on? Yeah I wire wheeled the whole thing clean, primed it, and sprayed it with $7 paint and it sucks.
It sucks that I have ES bushings in now. I'll have to (somehow) take them out or tape them off.
It sucks that I have ES bushings in now. I'll have to (somehow) take them out or tape them off.
02-28-2007, 04:45 PM
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spray on, i had some left after painting my wheels, which have chipped to about 50% paint %50 original color. but the ****** suspension i just sprayed, which even had mud on it, TO THIS DAY has 0 chips in it. i was just testing this out, even sprayed my rear wheel drums, and the paint wont come off..it sucks
02-28-2007, 05:11 PM
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Re: (fizix_skate)
I like to wirewheel everything, I'll either use duplicolor etch primer, or rustoleom "for rusted surfaces" primer, just depending on what I have. Then I paint with duplicolor semi-gloss black 500 degree paint. The 500 degree just happens to be the paint I picked. I don't think it does anything special for suspension, but the duplicolor tips have really good spray patterns.
(leave the krylon to the taggers
)
(leave the krylon to the taggers
)
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02-28-2007, 05:16 PM
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Re: (stealthmode62)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealthmode62 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> (leave the krylon to the taggers )</TD></TR></TABLE>
Montana Spraycans FTMFW
)</TD></TR></TABLE>Montana Spraycans FTMFW
03-01-2007, 07:23 AM
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Re: (fizix_skate)
The thing that the paint sticks to is the primer. Without the primer, I'd say it would chip much easier than without. I haven't tried chipping anything, but it seems pretty durable. If I were trying to do a scientific chipping study though, I'd need to paint at above a certain temperature (I'm painting in a heated garage in 25 degree weather), and I'd need to let the paint cure fully before trying to chip it. Paint may dry after an hour, but it actually takes days, and sometimes weeks (depending on the type of paint) to fully fully cure.
03-01-2007, 07:59 AM
#13
Re: (fizix_skate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fizix_skate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But how well does it hold up? Like if you dropped a screwdriver tip on it (simulating a rock), does it chip?</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are ballin' and have the money, you should powder coat them like Antioch said. If you are ballin though.
If you are ballin' and have the money, you should powder coat them like Antioch said. If you are ballin though.
03-01-2007, 08:00 AM
#14
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Yeah, I'll be doing it in my apartment at 75 degrees and I could let it stand as long as I want. I'm going to try Rustoleum spray without primer on one LCA and see what happens.
03-01-2007, 09:59 AM
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Re: (fizix_skate)
I'm pretty partial to primer. I've been a residential house painter for about 6 years and I've learned that paint is made to stick to primer. Even if you used a cheap metal primer, I'd do that before just paint.
03-01-2007, 10:33 AM
#16
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Well I don't undestand why it chips so bad right now... I thought I did it the right way by using primer yet it chips like its a 20 year old paint job...
Does anyone actually know a very resistant paint? Not powdercoat.
Does anyone actually know a very resistant paint? Not powdercoat.
03-01-2007, 10:58 AM
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Re: (fizix_skate)
did you use krylon, or the 99 cent paint? Cheap paint doesn't seem to work that well. I may even try some kilz primer mostly used in houses on walls. It's shelac based and sticks to everything.
03-01-2007, 12:07 PM
#18
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Re: (fizix_skate)
Did you sand between each coat and before the primer? Sure the paint will stick well to the primer, but unless you sanded a bit before you put the primer on the metal the primer will chip off with the paint. Scuff it up with a scotch brite or something not too rough and the paint and primer will hold a million times better (yes, exactly one million times better. I counted).
03-01-2007, 01:29 PM
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Re: (stealthmode62)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stealthmode62 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you use krylon, or the 99 cent paint? Cheap paint doesn't seem to work that well. I may even try some kilz primer mostly used in houses on walls. It's shelac based and sticks to everything. </TD></TR></TABLE>
No it was like $7 auto paint and primer.
yeah, Silent, I wire wheeled the huge thing. It took like 45 minutes.
No it was like $7 auto paint and primer.
yeah, Silent, I wire wheeled the huge thing. It took like 45 minutes.
03-01-2007, 01:43 PM
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Re: (fizix_skate)
I've been doing some painting today. The duplicolor says to recoat within 1 hour, or after 7 days, so I assume it takes 7 days to fully cure.
I'm using a knotted wire wheel to clean everything, and I don't sand the primer. I'm painting when the primer is dry to the touch.
I've got some epoxy automotive primer that definately wouldn't ever come off, but I'm not spraying that nasty stuff in the garage today.
I'm using a knotted wire wheel to clean everything, and I don't sand the primer. I'm painting when the primer is dry to the touch.
I've got some epoxy automotive primer that definately wouldn't ever come off, but I'm not spraying that nasty stuff in the garage today.
03-01-2007, 05:53 PM
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Re: (fizix_skate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fizix_skate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, so in the end what do you recommend for durability? Wire wheel, duplicolor etch primer, then duplicolor paint?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's just the way I'm doing it, and it seems to work pretty good. There could be many durable combos.
That's just the way I'm doing it, and it seems to work pretty good. There could be many durable combos.
03-01-2007, 07:24 PM
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Re: (fizix_skate)
do this...no need to buy extra paint...
clean your suspension components really good so that they dont have any dirt that'll cause the primer not to stick correctly....once its clean...spray primer on them, let it dry...then apply a layer on semi-gloss or flat black paint...let it dry good for about half hour and they add another coat of paint...let it dry and you should be good to go....i say you should go with the duplicolor for this project...
clean your suspension components really good so that they dont have any dirt that'll cause the primer not to stick correctly....once its clean...spray primer on them, let it dry...then apply a layer on semi-gloss or flat black paint...let it dry good for about half hour and they add another coat of paint...let it dry and you should be good to go....i say you should go with the duplicolor for this project...