VTECR021

I want to get rid of those stock brakes for my 13 inch wheels, im putting on either 15 inch steelies, or rota's. but the thing im worried about is the braking power. i just installed 2 new blank rotors, and organic pads, and i still cant stop very well. from a 80 mph to full stop, after that my brakes smokes so bad...

so what upgrades can i do? and what exactly do i need to do it?

Mike_C

slow down, get better pads, use better fluid, remove dust shields, get integra front discs, get integra rear discs...

in that order - do one at a time and if you're still not happy move onward.

AzntaggeR

and then maybe upgrade to a better master cylinder and brake booster.

Mike_C

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AzntaggeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and then maybe upgrade to a better master cylinder and brake booster. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Those won't do anything for him overheating his brakes. They will merely make the pedal firmer, which may cause him to lock them up more easily.

FWIW - most REAL racers actually want smaller MCs so they have more control over their braking. Unfortunately, it is an illegal modification for most classes.

Padawan

You can check out the various offerings at http://FastBrakes.com if you're looking for an extreme improvement.

Jedi_Sol

how does removing the dust shield help braking?

Padawan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jedi_Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how does removing the dust shield help braking?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It can potentially reduce brake temperatures (and thus heat-related braking problems) by improving airflow to the components.

slammed_93_hatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MichaelJComputer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
FWIW - most REAL racers actually want smaller MCs so they have more control over their braking. Unfortunately, it is an illegal modification for most classes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

down side is that if your brakes fad some then you can loose all of your braking ability.

ex. i have 11.1" prelude vtec rotor and calipers, with a stock VX MC, and i can acheive full braking capabilities but if i start to do alot of braking i will loose all of the braking capabilities, and thats not good.

stockegsix

i got the front gsr brakes in my 92 hatch, and it made a big difference in braking. highly recomend it

Mr. Choi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It can potentially reduce brake temperatures (and thus heat-related braking problems) by improving airflow to the components. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i think potentially is the wrong word here. removing the dust shield improves air flow to the disc allowing it to dissapate heat
quicker. i took mine off and no more brake fade for me.

Tad

i'd recommend this,

looks to fill up the wheel as much as I could see it doing so, probly cheaper than anything else, and man I can believe it stops well

Padawan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. Choi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think potentially is the wrong word here. removing the dust shield improves air flow to the disc allowing it to dissapate heat
quicker. i took mine off and no more brake fade for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're right. I think what I wanted to get at was the fact that removing the shields may/may not eliminate heat-related braking problems, depending on the severity of those problems.

VTECR021

so what exactly do i need for the GSR front upgrade?? GSR rotors, calipers, and mounting brackets?

should i drain my brake fluids and put in dot4 fluid? or stay with dot3?

Mike_C

Did you try the four steps I advised you to do already? Did they not solve your problem?

Kalokohan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Padawan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can check out the various offerings at http://FastBrakes.com if you're looking for an extreme improvement. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Tru tru. for Brian and Fastbrakes. Been running their setup for a year with my 15" gsr hammers and stopping power is excellent!

VTECR021

yes i read it, but i want bigger setup. because this summer i will have h22a in. So... i really want to get rid of this tiny brake setup..

now, if i want integra front brakes, all i need is the rotor, and calipers? or do i need integra mounting brackets? or do my brackets work with integra setup?

VTECR021

sorry but, i need more information.... so...


bump

stockegsix

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTECR021 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so what exactly do i need for the GSR front upgrade?? GSR rotors, calipers, and mounting brackets?

should i drain my brake fluids and put in dot4 fluid? or stay with dot3?</TD></TR></TABLE>


yeah youre going to have to bleed your brakes if you swap to a gsr. you'll need the rotor, hub, spindle, knuckle, brake lines.... in my case i just got the whole front suspention and bolted straight right into my 92 hatch

Newman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

down side is that if your brakes fad some then you can loose all of your braking ability.

ex. i have 11.1" prelude vtec rotor and calipers, with a stock VX MC, and i can acheive full braking capabilities but if i start to do alot of braking i will loose all of the braking capabilities, and thats not good.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yup... we're running the same setup on our H22 hatchback, but we have a 1" ITR MC on there so that makes a world of difference, but still better than the same setup on another one of our shop cars with the 13/16" MC. Here's a pic of what the 11" rotor looks like under a stock Honda 15" rim. BTW, this is 4x114 and it's just as easy to make this work on a 4x100 setup.

VTECR021

so normally whats the average i would look at for a 10 or 11 inch front brake setup?

JCracer723

i had a discussion here before about removing the brake shield thing .. some say go for it.. some say keep it .. the people that say to keep it.. brought something interesting up... they were mentioning that the heat helps keeping heat away from the ball joint boot and the axle/cv joint boot ...

99blackcivicSi

SB Brake lines
Pads
slotted or crossdrilled rotors
DOT 5 fluid (it looks pretty and works better)
Si or Teg brakes front and rear
remove dust shields

you will see a HUGE! differance with those the lines help out alot!

Mike_C

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blackcivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">slotted or crossdrilled rotors</TD></TR></TABLE>

gonna disagree there. just get autozone blanks and call it a day.

95DXPhiladeph

crossdrilled &gt; slotted

cross drilled disperses heat better, cools the rotor down without being so harsh on pads... and with cooler rotor actually helps brake wear... still wont be as good as blanks, but wont be half as bad as slotted...

go with crossdrilled, with some long lasting pads... really good S/S brake lines, good fluid..... START THERE...

then lets say you're still not happy... throw in GSR rears with pads, rotors... and you'll be happy with that... just make sure you get atleast the 4040prop valve and Master Cylinder.... you can use stock brake booster, but if you'd like the GSR or LS one, that works too

whoDAT

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MichaelJComputer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

gonna disagree there. just get autozone blanks and call it a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

like raybestos? besides money, why not something well known ie: brembo blanks?