McNizzle

update 12.10.04: i found out that my problem is that the ACG (S) 15amp fuse keeps blowing. Can anyone give me any steps into trying to solve this problem? any feedback would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks everyone

p.s
i searched the archives but it was all full of questions and no answers.

update 12.11.04 ok the fuse stopped blowing once i unplugged the IACV plug (kind of funny bc ive been having code 14 problems forever and ive cleaned and replaced the IACV). even though the fuse stopped blowing, it will start but only for about 5seconds and then it will die. if i step on the gas, then it will die instantly as well. i can hear the main relay clicking when i turn the car on but i dont hear the fuel pump priming. any ideas anyone?

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"The search server is temporarily unavailable. Please try again later."

that is the message i got several times when trying to search so i decided to post bc im really eager to drive my car.

My question is pretty much what the title says, what can cause you to have BOTH no spark AND no fuel? I can only think of the main relay and ECU, but is there anything else?

thanks in advance




Modified by Chris M at 12:37 PM 12/11/2004

BrokeAssWhiteboy

a friend of mine was having the same prob, turned out to be the ecu fuse

_Cyclone_

It may be that your ECU has gone bad, or like BrokeAssWhiteboy said, the fuse for the ECU.

I also think maybe if your distributor sensors have gone bad for whatever reason, the computer will think your engine is not turning, therefore not send fuel or ignition... just a thought.

McNizzle

well i just checked all of my fuses and the only one that was blown was the ACG (S)fuse (right next to the S.R.S fuse). Does anyone know what that fuse is? I replaced it and it blew right away when i tried to start the car.

McNizzle

if it helps at all, i dont hear the fuel pump turning on and priming but im pretty sure i can hear it click once whenever i try to start it.when i took it out and took it apart everything looked fine and didnt seem like the points needed to be resoldered or anything.

FlatTire

if the ecu fuse is blowing then you could have a ground out some where, I kept blowing fuses, and then I found out that the 02 sensor wires were grounding out on my oil pan.

on a side note, my car wont start eithir, have you tried to compression start yours? mine will compression start, but if I turn the key all I get is the sound of injecs. pouring fuel into the engine.

McNizzle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FlatTire &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the ecu fuse is blowing then you could have a ground out some where, I kept blowing fuses, and then I found out that the 02 sensor wires were grounding out on my oil pan.

on a side note, my car wont start eithir, have you tried to compression start yours? mine will compression start, but if I turn the key all I get is the sound of injecs. pouring fuel into the engine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my ecu fuse is fine and no i havent tried to compression start it... how do i do that?

its my ACG fuse that keeps blowing, and i was just told it has to do with my alternator..... does anyone know if that means i need to get my alternator replaced, or if its the alternator voltage regulator that i need to get replaced? ive been without a car for 2weeks and think im finally breaking some light on a problem so i just need as much help as i can get.... i dont have enough money for someone to come out and look at my car so everyones help is greatly appreciated!

FlatTire

ok to compression start, you have a manual right? put the car in neutral, push it backwards, or forwards. get it going so youre at least 5-10 mph. you'll need help and some room. put the car into gear (1st, or reverse), let go of the clutch and the car should jerk to a start.

McNizzle

oh yeah ive tried to push start it already....no success

McNizzle

bump

McNizzle

anyone? please do your best and try and give me some feedback. i havent been able to drive my car for the last 2weeks and since i live 20miles from work and any stores it been very hard for me to commute lately.

Do_Ster

chris, do you have a fuel cut off switch? if so check the wires to the switch. make sure they are good (soldering, connection) and not touching any metal. hope that helps. hey man, at least you find out it was the ACG fuse, a lot of people have a hard time figuring that it out when they have no spark fuel

McNizzle

nope, no fuel cut off switch thanks for the attempt though! keep the ideas coming

_Cyclone_

Okay, I was looking through my pictures of the last engine swap I did... and I thought of something. The ACG fuse also relates directly to your ECU... and if it's blowing, something is probably shorting/grounding out.

Before beginning this, visually check as much of the engine harness as you can for obvious damage, i.e. rubbing wear, broken wires, burned wires, etc.

Step 1:
What I want you to do is disconnect your main harness from the engine. Unplug all plugs from the main harness that lead to your engine (left and right side of the engine compartment.)

Step 2:
Go back into your car with a fresh ACG fuse in place, turn your key on. See if the fuse is still blowing - it probably won't. If it does however, skip to step 4.

Step 3:
Then, turn the key back off, and plug back in each plug that you unplugged <U>one by one</U>, going back into the car each time and turning the key on to see if the fuse blows. This will help you to determine which part of the harness has a problem and make it easier to find.

Once you've determined which part of the harness (group of wires) is affected, you can tear all of the tape and plastic off the wires, and inspect the full length of each wire one by one. A problem with one, or a couple of wires, should be easy to see at this point, and easy to fix as well - and that should be it... skip step 4.

Step 4
If you unplugged everything and the fuse still blows when you turn the key on... you'll have to check all the wiring between each underhood plug/connector all the way up to the ECU.

Good luck with this, and I'd like to know what you find. I'm watching this thread.

StrikerX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CycloneBlue_1.6EL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay, I was looking through my pictures of the last engine swap I did... and I thought of something. The ACG fuse also relates directly to your ECU... and if it's blowing, something is probably shorting/grounding out.

Before beginning this, visually check as much of the engine harness as you can for obvious damage, i.e. rubbing wear, broken wires, burned wires, etc.

Step 1:
What I want you to do is disconnect your main harness from the engine. Unplug all plugs from the main harness that lead to your engine (left and right side of the engine compartment.)

Step 2:
Go back into your car with a fresh ACG fuse in place, turn your key on. See if the fuse is still blowing - it probably won't. If it does however, skip to step 4.

Step 3:
Then, turn the key back off, and plug back in each plug that you unplugged <U>one by one</U>, going back into the car each time and turning the key on to see if the fuse blows. This will help you to determine which part of the harness has a problem and make it easier to find.

Once you've determined which part of the harness (group of wires) is affected, you can tear all of the tape and plastic off the wires, and inspect the full length of each wire one by one. A problem with one, or a couple of wires, should be easy to see at this point, and easy to fix as well - and that should be it... skip step 4.

Step 4
If you unplugged everything and the fuse still blows when you turn the key on... you'll have to check all the wiring between each underhood plug/connector all the way up to the ECU.

Good luck with this, and I'd like to know what you find. I'm watching this thread. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Like he said, this is an easier way to isolate your short. If you think that the alternator maybe faulty then disconnect the ground and hot cable. then with a ohm meter ohm it out see if its shorted at the output.

My brother had a problem of blowing a fuse in his truck everytime he hit the brake. I probed out his fuse box and found a short when I removed the steering wheel. Seems he took it off (for whatever reason) and when reinstalled he didn't pay attention that a wire got wedge between two metal plates that move. It tore the insulation.

McNizzle

alright, time to go play with the harness...ill keep u guys updated

McNizzle

ok the fuse stopped blowing once i unplugged the IACV plug (kind of funny bc ive been having code 14 problems forever and ive cleaned and replaced the IACV). even though the fuse stopped blowing, it still doesnt start but it sounds like it wants too. i really dont know what else to check? i can hear the relay clicking but i still dont hear the fuel pump priming. any answers would be great

_Cyclone_

Now you have to figure out why the IACV fuse is blowing. Check the wiring harness that includes those wires for damage and repair it, so you can keep it plugged in while trying to start it.

Also check if you're getting either fuel or spark after this, and let us know.

McNizzle

ok i turned the key and i just held it for about 10seconds and it finally started but it was at real low rpm and it only stayed on for about 10seconds. whenever i give it gas it dies automatically. i still havent ever noticed the fuel pump turning on so do u think its dying bc its not getting enough fuel? ive started it about 10times but it only stays on for a few seconds each time

McNizzle

just updated the main post....come on ppl i really need help i go to work in an hour and a half

_Cyclone_

Your fuel pump is working fine - you have BOTH spark and fuel now...

It won't run without the IACV... did you fix those wires yet? Fix them, plug it back in and start it up, you'll be done.

PS Keep this thread updated with your results.

McNizzle

bad news...right before i was leaving for work i found out that the problem was much worse. the reason why the car kept dying when it was on is bc it wasnt gettin guel....i traced the wires from the fuel pump into the cabin and half of the **** was melted....thats why i wasnt hearing the damn pump

_Cyclone_

Okay, that's not too bad. You can fix the wires, but now we have to figure out why the wires were melted.

StrikerX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">bad news...right before i was leaving for work i found out that the problem was much worse. the reason why the car kept dying when it was on is bc it wasnt gettin guel....i traced the wires from the fuel pump into the cabin and half of the **** was melted....thats why i wasnt hearing the damn pump </TD></TR></TABLE>

invest a few dollars in an digital multimeter. Can probably scoop one up from a pawnshop for $60 or so. Will come in handy. Just don't use the amp measuring part of it unless you know what your doing.

McNizzle

yeah i have a multimeter but i couldnt find anything. i got my car running now, but its bc i have wires running from the battery to the fuel pump and i have a little switch to turn it on and off so i dont run out the battery when the car is off..... i think the problem is deep in the engine harness where i cant see/get too bc i couldnt find anything. im afraid im going to have to pull out the whole harness to inspect it or just straight up buy a new harness....im thinkin about bringing the car to a shop this week to see if they can fix it. on the good side of things, i got my azenis mounted today