What rotors and brake pad setup is everyone using?
07-09-2008, 04:08 PM
#28
Junior Member
Re: (bmoua)
Autozone cheap pads ftw! lol
I know people that autocross with duralast pads and go through 3 pairs a month. The guys at Autozone have no idea how he manages to destroy them so quickly.
I know people that autocross with duralast pads and go through 3 pairs a month. The guys at Autozone have no idea how he manages to destroy them so quickly.
07-09-2008, 05:29 PM
#30
Junior Member
They're garbage, but they're cheap as hell, and they come with a warranty. So if you're a budget racer its nice to get free pads.
Going with EBC is the best thing to do though, you'll be happy you did!
Going with EBC is the best thing to do though, you'll be happy you did!
07-09-2008, 06:28 PM
#31
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EBC for the win, they do produce a little more brake dust then normal IMO, and Black brembo's in the front, I used slotted and drilled in the back with posiquiet pads in the back, I got them for free so no complaints. EBC is made in the Uk you cant really go wrong.
07-09-2008, 07:51 PM
#34
HT White Ops
Re: (96civic_hb)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96civic_hb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But if I wash my car on a weekly basis the "more than normal" brake dust shouldn't be a problem, correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Correctimundo!
Actually, you can get away with just washing your wheels...
Correctimundo!
Actually, you can get away with just washing your wheels...
07-09-2008, 08:05 PM
#36
HT White Ops
Re: (OMGWTFBBQ!)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OMGWTFBBQ! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[AutoZone is] garbage, but they're cheap as hell, and they come with a warranty.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just replaced my wife's AutoZone pads.
LoL! She's harder on brakes than me!
She has two modes of driving:
1) Throttle on / brakes off
2) Throttle off / brakes on
If she ever 'coasts' I've never experienced it!
Anyway, I took the old pads to Autozone.
The guy at the counter asked me for my phone number - went in back and got a new set - put my old set in the box, and handed me the new ones. Bada bing, bada boom! That was it...
The reason I'm telling you this is...
I asked him *when* I had bought the old set. He said December 2004.
Soo...
How bad can they be?!?!?
I just replaced my wife's AutoZone pads.
LoL! She's harder on brakes than me!
She has two modes of driving:
1) Throttle on / brakes off
2) Throttle off / brakes on
If she ever 'coasts' I've never experienced it!
Anyway, I took the old pads to Autozone.
The guy at the counter asked me for my phone number - went in back and got a new set - put my old set in the box, and handed me the new ones. Bada bing, bada boom! That was it...
The reason I'm telling you this is...
I asked him *when* I had bought the old set. He said December 2004.
Soo...
How bad can they be?!?!?
07-09-2008, 10:39 PM
#38
HT White Ops
Re: (96civic_hb)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96civic_hb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice, maybe I'll just go with them then, do they sell Brembo blanks there?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, they don't have any bling bling @ AutoZone.
Don't get me wrong - I'm just saying they're NOT "garbage" IMHO - that's all...
I wouldn't put them on my Honda, but they're fine for my wife's SUV, you know?
She doesn't *need* pads that will stand her car on end - probably never ran anyone in her life!
I was just over at Manchester looking at OEM rotors, and they're only 50 bones each for my ride, but...
I'd be hard pressed to give up on my Hawk HPS pads. I love those things - almost as much as my wife!
Anyway, I'll stop! You're NOT looking for guidance on love...
No, they don't have any bling bling @ AutoZone.
Don't get me wrong - I'm just saying they're NOT "garbage" IMHO - that's all...
I wouldn't put them on my Honda, but they're fine for my wife's SUV, you know?
She doesn't *need* pads that will stand her car on end - probably never ran anyone in her life!
I was just over at Manchester looking at OEM rotors, and they're only 50 bones each for my ride, but...
I'd be hard pressed to give up on my Hawk HPS pads. I love those things - almost as much as my wife!
Anyway, I'll stop! You're NOT looking for guidance on love...
07-10-2008, 03:15 AM
#40
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brembo drilled/slotted rotors with hawk hps pads in the front.
brembo slotted rotors with hawk hps pads in the rear.
I ventured into 88rotors today and chatted with the owner ken. they sell their own oe rotors that are machined slotted and drilled for a good price and he said they're back by a lifetime warranty and they also do the work..
NIICE!!
brembo slotted rotors with hawk hps pads in the rear.
I ventured into 88rotors today and chatted with the owner ken. they sell their own oe rotors that are machined slotted and drilled for a good price and he said they're back by a lifetime warranty and they also do the work..
NIICE!!
07-10-2008, 06:52 AM
#41
Junior Member
I would stay away from slotted/drilled rotors.
Drilled only rotors are great for rain, and slotted rotors are good for dry, but when you combine them, the rotors have a bad tendency to promote uneven pad wear, and to crack.
Drilled only rotors are great for rain, and slotted rotors are good for dry, but when you combine them, the rotors have a bad tendency to promote uneven pad wear, and to crack.
07-10-2008, 08:51 AM
#42
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Re: (OMGWTFBBQ!)
Yeah, I personally think drilled/slotted rotors are pointless. I'm so indecisive when it comes to things for my car. It took me over a year to decide on wheels. But yeah no need for tips on love here, happily married with a four month old! 
But yeah no need for tips on love here, happily married with a four month old!
07-10-2008, 10:05 AM
#43
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Re: (96civic_hb)
I'm running Brembo blanks (OE replacement) and Wagner's Thermoquiet pads. It's awesome, "bites" really hard. I can definitely feel the differences between the stock rotors/pads and the given replacement combo.
07-11-2008, 10:22 AM
#45
HT White Ops
Re: (96civic_hb)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96civic_hb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gahh!! Lol, I've decided on Brembo blanks but i can't decide on any pads..</TD></TR></TABLE>
LoL!
You're like a dog with 2 bones! You're gonna have to bury one and lick the other!
Anyway, one thing I should mention...
If you go with Hawk HPS pads, make SURE you burn them in!!!
These pads are the real thing and you gotta bed these puppies in, if you want them to work right.
Everyone has an opinion on what 'burning' or 'bedding-in' means...
I usually do a series of 10-15 quick stops, from around 50 MPH down to 20 MPH, or until the pads start stinking, whichever comes first.
Thankfully, Hawk spells it out for you:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What procedure does Hawk Performance recommend for burnishing brake pads for racing?
All brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though Hawk Performance burnishes the pads in the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
Step 1. Seal all brake ducts.
Step 2. Slowly engage brakes 6 to 8 times at medium speeds Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop.
Step 3. Increase speeds to simulate race conditions; allow 6 to 8 high pressure (about 500 psi) snubs at racing speeds. Total engagements for Step 2 and Step 3 should be a maximum of 15 to 20.
Step 4. Remove brake duct seals. Allow the system to cool for about 15 minutes. Do not engage brakes while car is parked during cool down period. Your Rotors and Hawk Performance Pads are now ready for race! Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed.
What is bed-in?
For optimal use of any given brake system, the pads and rotor have to be compatible with each other. The bed-in procedure establishes that compatibility between the pad and rotor. This is achieved by a combination of rubbing speed, temperature, line pressure, and Inertia. Bed-in is also influenced by pad and rotor material chemistries. It is always recommended that only compatible pads and rotors be used in any given application. Bedding in advantages:
1. Gradually heat treats the rotor and eliminates any thermal shock in the rotor.
2. Burn off volatiles and moisture from the resin that is near pad surface. This will eliminate “green fade.”
3. Establish a layer of transfer film about a few microns thick on the rotor surface. Shearing of the film during friction is an effective source of friction force. Otherwise, when using a freshly ground rotor without the transfer film, the main friction force would come from cutting, plowing, or scoring the asperities on the rotor surface. This leads to inconsistent braking effectiveness.
4. Mate the two surfaces to a near perfect geometrical match, so that the contact area is high, and therefore the friction force is increased.
5. The performance of a fresh rotor/fresh pad system would be inconsistent. This is due to ever-changing structures and properties of the two mating materials. Bed-in of pads and rotor will form a stable transfer film.
6. If bedding in procedure is not applied, a stable transfer film may not be established for a long time. In other words, the rotor surface would have to be constantly regenerating a film that is not quite stable for a long time. This effect would reduce the performance and increase the wear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LoL!
You're like a dog with 2 bones! You're gonna have to bury one and lick the other!
Anyway, one thing I should mention...
If you go with Hawk HPS pads, make SURE you burn them in!!!
These pads are the real thing and you gotta bed these puppies in, if you want them to work right.
Everyone has an opinion on what 'burning' or 'bedding-in' means...
I usually do a series of 10-15 quick stops, from around 50 MPH down to 20 MPH, or until the pads start stinking, whichever comes first.
Thankfully, Hawk spells it out for you:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> What procedure does Hawk Performance recommend for burnishing brake pads for racing?
All brake pads have to be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though Hawk Performance burnishes the pads in the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.
Step 1. Seal all brake ducts.
Step 2. Slowly engage brakes 6 to 8 times at medium speeds Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop.
Step 3. Increase speeds to simulate race conditions; allow 6 to 8 high pressure (about 500 psi) snubs at racing speeds. Total engagements for Step 2 and Step 3 should be a maximum of 15 to 20.
Step 4. Remove brake duct seals. Allow the system to cool for about 15 minutes. Do not engage brakes while car is parked during cool down period. Your Rotors and Hawk Performance Pads are now ready for race! Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed.
What is bed-in?
For optimal use of any given brake system, the pads and rotor have to be compatible with each other. The bed-in procedure establishes that compatibility between the pad and rotor. This is achieved by a combination of rubbing speed, temperature, line pressure, and Inertia. Bed-in is also influenced by pad and rotor material chemistries. It is always recommended that only compatible pads and rotors be used in any given application. Bedding in advantages:
1. Gradually heat treats the rotor and eliminates any thermal shock in the rotor.
2. Burn off volatiles and moisture from the resin that is near pad surface. This will eliminate “green fade.”
3. Establish a layer of transfer film about a few microns thick on the rotor surface. Shearing of the film during friction is an effective source of friction force. Otherwise, when using a freshly ground rotor without the transfer film, the main friction force would come from cutting, plowing, or scoring the asperities on the rotor surface. This leads to inconsistent braking effectiveness.
4. Mate the two surfaces to a near perfect geometrical match, so that the contact area is high, and therefore the friction force is increased.
5. The performance of a fresh rotor/fresh pad system would be inconsistent. This is due to ever-changing structures and properties of the two mating materials. Bed-in of pads and rotor will form a stable transfer film.
6. If bedding in procedure is not applied, a stable transfer film may not be established for a long time. In other words, the rotor surface would have to be constantly regenerating a film that is not quite stable for a long time. This effect would reduce the performance and increase the wear.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
07-11-2008, 11:10 AM
#47
Honda-Tech Member
Re: What rotors and brake pad setup is everyone using? (96civic_hb)
Front- NAPA Premium Anti-Rust Painted Rotors with NAPA Premium Ceramic Pads
Rear- Brembo Rotors with NAPA Premium Ceramic Pads
My brakes stop on a dime and I love it. Pretty expensive stuff though...
Rear- Brembo Rotors with NAPA Premium Ceramic Pads
My brakes stop on a dime and I love it. Pretty expensive stuff though...
07-11-2008, 11:46 AM
#48
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Re: What rotors and brake pad setup is everyone using? (96civic_hb)
brembo sport rotors, aem pads, earls steel lines, dot 6 brake fluid. setup feels awesome for daily driving but have yet to see track conditions. i still maintain that upgrading my brakes was the best mod ive done to my car thus far.
07-11-2008, 01:33 PM
#49
Junior Member
WTF? DOT 6 fluid? I thought it stopped at 5, and even if you run 5 in a normal car it will usually destroy your brake system. Do you mean you're running a 600 series fluid? Which would still be DOT 5, and still very bad for a stock brake system.
07-11-2008, 03:19 PM
#50
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Re: (OMGWTFBBQ!)
your right, it's valvoline syn brake fluid. says that it exceeds dot 3 & 4 but is still compatible with conventional brake systems. dont ask me why i said dot 6 